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3 finger Pressure plate difference??

Bill W

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Guys
I'm replacing my old 4 finger PP with a 3 finger one and my question is ( for any of you that have done this ) was there any difference in the throw, I thought I read somewhere that someone had to reset the shaft rod position on the spline ( see pic ) to make up the extra slack being there was to much play for the threaded linkage rod to make up for. I have the TM for the clutch adjustment but it is for in frame and looks to be a PITA to get at so I'm trying to see if I can do a pre setup ( if needed ) before the install.
 

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clinto

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Bill, I've done several and almost all produced a difference in the linkage.

I have a friend (here on the site) who's truck had a clutch put in it and it couldn't be adjusted properly due to the bellcrank not being reset.

It's not hard resetting it in the vehicle.
 

eagle4g63

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That would be me!!!! I was ready to pull my hair out over it......you DO have to "clock" the linkage arm in your pic.....I don't know how much but it was a LOT!!!

I did mine after the trans was in the truck.....have to watch out for the throttle linkage that is mounted under the floor, it got in the way of me fully pulling the arm off the shaft.....but after I pulled it off I turned the splined shaft until the throw out barring touched the fingers and re-placed the linkage arm.....then went and fine adjusted it just like the TM(with the linkage)
 

clinto

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The TM has a spec, seems like it was something like 3.XXX, it's the distance from the center of the linkage hole to the back of the bellhousing or something, I'd have to go back and look at it.
 

Bill W

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The TM has a spec, seems like it was something like 3.XXX, it's the distance from the center of the linkage hole to the back of the bellhousing or something, I'd have to go back and look at it.
Its 3.25" ( aprox ) from the hole in the lever to the tranny flange.,
I got the new 3 finger pp today and measured the overall height/depth of the pressure plate, the 3 finger is about 3 1/2" to the end of the fingers ( yes I took out the wedges ) and the old 4 finger is about 3 3/8" so I'm thinking 1/8" can't be enough to have to reclock ( like that word ) the rod on the shaft spline
 

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eagle4g63

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Did you measure the distance from the plywood to the actual pressure plate's clutch surface (not sure what to call it but the nice smooth part the clutch plate rides against) I seem to remember that they are different so when bolted down with the clutch plate in there the finger height difference would be even greater than you are seeing in that pic.

I seem to remember clocking the arm more than just 1/8th of an inch, more like almost a quarter of a turn, not quite.
 

clinto

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When you bolt the pressure plate down, the height will change.

That's why you see finger heights referred to as "installed height" a lot of times.
 

Bill W

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Good point about measuring from the plate to the fingers, I'll check that on both tomorrow.
I guess I won't really know until its all bolted up., I should have measured finger height on the old one before I took it off the flywheel then compared it to the ( bolted up ) new one..Dang I hate learning curves :roll:
Thanks for the input guys,
 

eagle4g63

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Maybe this will help, this is a pic from my thread about my clutch......if you look closely you can make out the parts.

The throw out bearing was this far away from the clutch fingers WITH the clutch pedal pressed to the FLOOR!!!!

So had way more than 1/8th of an inch:!:
 

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Kaiserjeeps

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Bill w I should clarify. I did reset mine. The adjustment came in fine. Reading back sounds like I did not. I started from scratch with the PP change. And that involved reseting the arm to what the TM said. I hope I didn't cause you any confusion.

Enjoy the fresh clutch.:p
 

Bill W

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What I think I need to reclarify is that I was hoping to reset ( preset ) the shaft rod while I had the tranyy out. What I think I might do is put the old 4 finger back on the ( resurfaced ) PP ( along with new clutch plate ) and measure from the pp to the end height of the fingers then put the 3 finger on and do the same thing, if depth is the same or close then I don't think there will be any need to reset the arm but I'm now starting to think I won't really know until everything gets bolted back up to the block which I'm hoping will be this wk/end as all my parts have now come in. I was going to leave the pto off until after installing the ( New to me ) tranny but it was way easier mounting and setting the backlash while it was out on the floor.
 

Bill W

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Tranny is in, I did have to reclock the arm on the shaft spline, it was not that hard to do ( less than 6 swear words ) being when everything was out I pulled the shaft and arm and cleaned up and oiled them and reassembled loosely so it wasn't that bad to remove and rotate it a few splines,it now measures about 3 3/8"..close enough for goverment trucks. I'm going to use 50w when I refill it. test ride this wk/end
Thanks again for the help/input
 

Bill W

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Took her out for a run and the clutch slips like crazy in 4th and 5th, checked the throw out bearing and I can reach up with a screwdriver spin it so clearence is good as far as clutch pedal adjustment goes??? going to buy 2 cans of brake clean and spray it up in the housing and see if that helps anything though I did hit all the surface's with it before assembly???
 

clinto

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Is this clutch replacement related to the rear main seal replacement?

Is this a new clutch?


If it's new and the flywheel was resurfaced and there is a gap between the throwout bearing and the fingers, it's either a defective pressure plate or it isn't torqued down to specs (unlikely-I seem to remember the TM only calling for 60 ft. lbs).

There is supposed to be an air gap between the throwout bearings and fingers-the TO bearing should only spin when the pedal is depressed.

I once went through a couple pressure plates on my Dad's Chevelle-2 in a row didn't "clamp" sufficiently to keep from slipping. Confused me because I kept thinking there's no chance to get 2 defectives in a row.
 

Bill W

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Yep
New everything including resurfaced flywheel., I took her out again ( sprayed a can of brake clean up there ) and it did not seem to slip as much but time will tell. TO bearing will spin by hand ( screwdriver ) with tranny in neutral and clutch pedal released so its definetely not making contact with the fingers. I hoping for break in time...but I've never had a new clutch slip on any clutch pack job I've done in the past.
P.S. Pressure plate bolt torque was 30ft/lbs ( manual stated 27ft/lbs)
 
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crazywelder72

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I just started to compile a list of p/n's to rebuild my clutch. Take a look at my list and chime in if i am missing anything.

I believe i saw once saying that new flywheel bolts should be used but i forgot where i saw it. I haven't found those p/n's yet
 

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