Exterior Latex/Acrylic House Paints

[Scrounge41]

That ^^ is beautiful work. Did you have any trouble with the sharpie bleeding through? I know the manual recommends chalk, I wonder if that causes any adhesion problems?

Thanks! No trouble with bleed through. I had read that about the chalk but I didn't have any. I like the tight fade vs. a wider fade or a taped line.

 

[Beerslayer]

I like the tight fade as well and the taped line is not for me. Taped lines = extra work.

 

[skysix]

All of the vehicles have been painted with Lowe's or Home Depot paint and it's held up and looks SO close to the original.

What is the mix code for the Desert Tan?

 

[SPCWarning]

Butterbean is Camo again!

Got the CUCV painted two days ago. Used a mixture of Lowe's and BLP Mobile greens to get the green as close to CARC as I could. Used BLP Mobile black and brown. Sprayed with an hvlp from Harbor Freight with a separate one-quart pot. Used Floe-trol on all colors. I'm pleased.
Jimmy

 

[jeffhuey1n]

Got the CUCV painted two days ago. Used a mixture of Lowe's and BLP Mobile greens to get the green as close to CARC as I could. Used BLP Mobile black and brown. Sprayed with an hvlp from Harbor Freight with a separate one-quart pot. Used Floe-trol on all colors. I'm pleased.
Jimmy

Looks good Jimmy! Good job!

 

[Jeremiah_Johnson]

Got the M1009 Painted today ( Home depo Paint ) Not bad for my 1st paint job . The Passenger side turned out very good , as the driver side did not blend together due to sun heating the metal (painted outside ) but can blend with the other colors when finishing camo . I now no to Paint in the shade to avoid heat Fast drying . I left the bumpers black for now.

 

[mikey]

Question???

When is the last time someone used the paint code for 383 Green found here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/73018-1968-jk-m35a2-restoration-project-7.html#post916500

I just went to Home Depot and they told me they changed their tints and if they entered the code it would be different. They could not tell me how much it would be off by.

Thanks

Mikey

 

[MWMULES]

Yep It changed a couple months ago and this is the up-dated codes for 383 green

UP Date 4/12/15 Remember a lot of the older posts with Behr #'s on the lids are not true FS they were color matched, so start with a clean slate.
Tell the clerk the list of the FS codes in the HD paint computer is found by going under "Competitor Color look up" and selecting Federal Standard as the manufacturer then have them enter just the five number code.

 

[skysix]

Desert Tan

Anyone have the new codes for Desert Tan?

 

[austinaubinoe]

Hey is this still the code for ben moore 24087???

P24-4B (alkyd semi gloss)
OY 6X5
RX 22
BK 7X1

Thanks gonna order some in a week or so.

 

[SteveKuhn]

It hasn't changed but lemme check.

Steve

 

[rolling18]

Both of my trucks have typical military paint jobs. CARC applied with runs, flaking off in some places with OD showing underneath plus those rusty patches.

It is obvious that not much if any surface prep was done before painting. All that taken into consideration, that paint stayed on there pretty good for quite a few years before it even started to fall off.

Consider what you have. A $3900 deuce doesn't really warrant a $5000 paint job unless you are doing an offf frame restoration. Then it will be nicer than it ever was from the factory and not correct.

You will have just as much or more fun with it if you just get some green paint on it. Once some of it starts to peel off and show the red underneath, you can scuff that spot up and brush some green paint on it and it will look all pretty again.

This has been pretty well covered, but here's what I would do.

Pressure wash the crap out of it. Scuff up anything you can get to with Scotchbrite pads, and maybe some 80 grit where the paint is thick. Remove whatever rust you can get up the time and enthusiasm for, treat with phosphoric acid or just paint over it with Rustoleum rusty metal primer.

Here's the thing. If you just wash it good and scuff up the parts that are easy, paint over everything but the glass and rubber, paint right over the rust, in a year or two it will look like every other military truck out there. That will get it pretty right now, and you can deal with the rust later. No big deal, it is a 40 year old truck that already has multiple layers of paint here and there. If it looks good from 10 feet you are good to go.

As for paint choice, I decided this weekend that I am never using oil based paint again on my trucks except for primer. That Sherwin Williams house paint looks better than anything else I have tried, Rapco, etc.

I have what I think is the perfect mix for 383 Green. If you want to use Sherwin Williams, I will hook you up with wholesale price to boot. I have used a lot of Home Depot paint, it's not bad. Sherwin Williams is just better. Most professional painters will agree. Oh yeah, you get it mixed by a professional.

Heya:
im across the river from you in SE portland!!
do you have a code and possible discount on desert tan?
how much paint is needed for a a complete deuce anyway?
thanks
marc

 

[lindyp38]

Outstanding Mikey, just an FYI. When the paint first goes on it doesn't look like the correct color. When she dries it's an exact match

im going to try this to paint the bed of my m1008a1

 

[SteveKuhn]

Got lost when I answered the same question in another thread. Sorry.

That's the formula.

Steve

 

[WizardBlack]

I thought I would add my own input for the Behr Acrylic Latex paint. I know my post count is single digit on here, but I own and operate a tier 1 painting facility for auto. I have been in paint since I was 14 and can colour match better than paint factories. Likewise, I have been doing production paint for many different industries (ag, commercial equipment, auto, etc.) so I have been around for a while in paint.
I wanted to try out this stuff so I gave it a whirl. I would like to record what I found here. First of all, I wanted to note that a large requirement for the original paint was low reflectivity. This means more than just flat paint, although that is a necessary component, obviously. While I have quoted CARC jobs before, we never did it. However, I believe that certain chemistry is employed to reduce the reflection of radiation of as many types as they could manage at the time CARC was made. This includes obviously light. While the Behr house paints manage to LOOK the same when you look at the paint at a 90* angle from the surface, the house paint is far more reflective (ie., shiny) at an oblique angle.
I used the formula for 383 Green (34094) found in the first post and brush painted a few spots on a friend's M109A3 that was painted 383 Green by the military. I did this purely to check color, I did not prime or anything. Likewise, it was on a sunny 85* F day and the metal substrate was quite hot. Anyways, I found the paint to be pretty close, but felt the Behr paint was slightly too saturated in green. Granted, I don't know how old the military CARC paint was, but there it is, none the less.
I thought I might try a new paint match since there were comments about new pigments. This is, however, despite the fact that the paint mixer knew how to read the old formula and replicated it so it is the same as the 'updated' formula posted later. I ended up taking a piece from my buddy's truck in and then matched it. Long story short, it matched pretty much dead on when viewed from a perpendicular angle to the surface. That is to say, it is a more faded green similar to CARC Green compared to the Behr formula posted above. However, at an oblique angle, it is still too shiny, albeit maybe a hair less. This is after brushing a few spots on the truck, including some in a cool, shaded area. I think, however, that spraying it would decrease this effect slightly.
The bottom line is I do not like the reflectivity of the Behr, nor the adhesion and hardness. Now, I know many are happy with it and that is perfectly fine. I probably would be as well, but being a 'paint guy' I guess I am extremely picky about it.
So, bottom line, I have two gallons of the standard Behr formula and one gallon of custom color match (as of Mid-June 2012) with Home Depot's new color system. I wanted to post the formula so anyone that might be interested in paint to touch up an existing worn paint job, or just for posterity, etc. I am not trying to undermine the standard formula or anything; just wanted to post it in case someone was interested.


*********WARNING: This is NOT the standard color formula!!!! Look at first post for standard formula***********
Color - Custom match to existing military CARC 383 Green
Behr Deep Base 4300 - Exterior Flat

Colorant-----OZ----384th
----EL----------3------248
----IL-----------2------224
----KXL---------0-------28
----TL-----------5------268
*********WARNING: This is NOT the standard color formula!!!! Look at first post for standard formula***********



Also, for tinting KILZ primer, try asking them to tint it with Lampshade Black instead of a green since you are limited on the ounces of tint. That will get you to a darker color (grey) so it will hide better.

 

[SteveKuhn]

One thing that I'm convinced effects the CARC oblique reflectivity and makes it 'dead flat' is the sandy texture. I think somebody said that they got that with a fast-dry spray earlier on in the thread. I know that the painter who did my 105 ended up getting it inadvertantly with the BM semi-gloss. It was setting up between nozzle and surface. Feels rough - just like CARC and the effect is satin, not semi.

Steve

 

[mikey]

I thought I would add my own input for the Behr Acrylic Latex paint. I know my post count is single digit on here, but I own and operate a tier 1 painting facility for auto. I have been in paint since I was 14 and can colour match better than paint factories. Likewise, I have been doing production paint for many different industries (ag, commercial equipment, auto, etc.) so I have been around for a while in paint.
I wanted to try out this stuff so I gave it a whirl. I would like to record what I found here. First of all, I wanted to note that a large requirement for the original paint was low reflectivity. This means more than just flat paint, although that is a necessary component, obviously. While I have quoted CARC jobs before, we never did it. However, I believe that certain chemistry is employed to reduce the reflection of radiation of as many types as they could manage at the time CARC was made. This includes obviously light. While the Behr house paints manage to LOOK the same when you look at the paint at a 90* angle from the surface, the house paint is far more reflective (ie., shiny) at an oblique angle.
I used the formula for 383 Green (34094) found in the first post and brush painted a few spots on a friend's M109A3 that was painted 383 Green by the military. I did this purely to check color, I did not prime or anything. Likewise, it was on a sunny 85* F day and the metal substrate was quite hot. Anyways, I found the paint to be pretty close, but felt the Behr paint was slightly too saturated in green. Granted, I don't know how old the military CARC paint was, but there it is, none the less.
I thought I might try a new paint match since there were comments about new pigments. This is, however, despite the fact that the paint mixer knew how to read the old formula and replicated it so it is the same as the 'updated' formula posted later. I ended up taking a piece from my buddy's truck in and then matched it. Long story short, it matched pretty much dead on when viewed from a perpendicular angle to the surface. That is to say, it is a more faded green similar to CARC Green compared to the Behr formula posted above. However, at an oblique angle, it is still too shiny, albeit maybe a hair less. This is after brushing a few spots on the truck, including some in a cool, shaded area. I think, however, that spraying it would decrease this effect slightly.
The bottom line is I do not like the reflectivity of the Behr, nor the adhesion and hardness. Now, I know many are happy with it and that is perfectly fine. I probably would be as well, but being a 'paint guy' I guess I am extremely picky about it.
So, bottom line, I have two gallons of the standard Behr formula and one gallon of custom color match (as of Mid-June 2012) with Home Depot's new color system. I wanted to post the formula so anyone that might be interested in paint to touch up an existing worn paint job, or just for posterity, etc. I am not trying to undermine the standard formula or anything; just wanted to post it in case someone was interested.


*********WARNING: This is NOT the standard color formula!!!! Look at first post for standard formula***********
Color - Custom match to existing military CARC 383 Green
Behr Deep Base 4300 - Exterior Flat

Colorant-----OZ----384th
----EL----------3------248
----IL-----------2------224
----KXL---------0-------28
----TL-----------5------268
*********WARNING: This is NOT the standard color formula!!!! Look at first post for standard formula***********



Also, for tinting KILZ primer, try asking them to tint it with Lampshade Black instead of a green since you are limited on the ounces of tint. That will get you to a darker color (grey) so it will hide better.

You should let the behr cure for about a month and then check again. Like many have stated, you must let it cure. When I painted my whole truck last month, it sat baking in two days of sun before it rained. I was told not to let it get wet for three weeks. My Dad called me saying the truck had streaks all over and I'd probably have to paint it again. When I got to the trucks, I was pleasantly surprised that the streaks washed right off with the soap bubble like residue others have mentioned. When I first looked at the streaks, before I washed the whole truck, the streaks themselves were shiny, the rest was flatter. As I washed it, the shiny streaks disappeared leaving the flatter surface. Now a month later, the truck looks fantastic and all streaks are gone. There are still some shiny spots in the corners of the bed where rain and the garden hose didn't get, but I'll pressure wash it in another month and I believe they will be flat.

In the end, from the eyes of a professional, will it match CARC perfectly? No, I'm sure it won't. But if you do let it cure, then wash it until the "soap bubbles" are gone, it will be a lot closer to carc than before it cures fully.

In addition to the look, before it cured fully, I could scrape the paint off with my thumb nail. Once it cured fully, a medium tow bar (that's gotta be over 100lbs) bouncing around in the bed hasn't scratched through the paint yet and it's been back there for over a year.

It may not be perfect, but I'm sold. This paint rocks. Those who see my truck at RC this fall will surely be impressed also.

Mikey

 

[WizardBlack]

One thing that I'm convinced effects the CARC oblique reflectivity and makes it 'dead flat' is the sandy texture. I think somebody said that they got that with a fast-dry spray earlier on in the thread. I know that the painter who did my 105 ended up getting it inadvertantly with the BM semi-gloss. It was setting up between nozzle and surface. Feels rough - just like CARC and the effect is satin, not semi.

Steve

Yeah, funny thing is, the MSDS on Gillespie shows their CARC paint has talc in it.

 

[WizardBlack]

You should let the behr cure for about a month and then check again. Like many have stated, you must let it cure. When I painted my whole truck last month, it sat baking in two days of sun before it rained. I was told not to let it get wet for three weeks. My Dad called me saying the truck had streaks all over and I'd probably have to paint it again. When I got to the trucks, I was pleasantly surprised that the streaks washed right off with the soap bubble like residue others have mentioned. When I first looked at the streaks, before I washed the whole truck, the streaks themselves were shiny, the rest was flatter. As I washed it, the shiny streaks disappeared leaving the flatter surface. Now a month later, the truck looks fantastic and all streaks are gone. There are still some shiny spots in the corners of the bed where rain and the garden hose didn't get, but I'll pressure wash it in another month and I believe they will be flat.

In the end, from the eyes of a professional, will it match CARC perfectly? No, I'm sure it won't. But if you do let it cure, then wash it until the "soap bubbles" are gone, it will be a lot closer to carc than before it cures fully.

In addition to the look, before it cured fully, I could scrape the paint off with my thumb nail. Once it cured fully, a medium tow bar (that's gotta be over 100lbs) bouncing around in the bed hasn't scratched through the paint yet and it's been back there for over a year.

It may not be perfect, but I'm sold. This paint rocks. Those who see my truck at RC this fall will surely be impressed also.

Mikey

Well, I am sure I didn't wait long enough for the full performance of the Behr stuff. No doubt on that. I now recall several such stories about it's performance after a period of time. I wonder how the oblique reflectivity is after a month. Have you had military CARC to compare against? I remember when we drove up to pick up my buddy's truck, it was dark out and raining. It was parked facing us on the other side of a narrow suburban street and if we had not had our headlights reflect off of the truck's headlights at about 15~20 feet away, we would have run right into the truck. That's how low the reflectivity is on the original stuff. I haven't tried painting a whole truck with other stuff (Behr, Gillespie, etc.) to compare against, but that is pretty impressive. Likewise, when we started driving it home at night, I was following the truck and people would pass me, get past the truck's rear marker lights and then try to merge back into our lane (right into the side of the truck) until they see it at the last second and swerve back over.
I don't want car accidents, but let's just say that, for other reasons, I want the reflectivity performance of original CARC.

 

[plym49]

So, is CARC the formulation and 383 the color? If so, is there a 24087 color for the CARC formulation?