Here go a few potential revision suggestions:
add a section of the advantages of connecting in 120V only mode if the person does not have any 240V loads that must be powered during emergencies (the main advantage being no need to balance the load), this gets a lot more important on the 1.5 and 3 KW units.
I would also point out the option of running extension cords from a generator mounted distribution box instead of using a transfer switch, this is particularly appealing for those people that may move the generator around (trailer mounted or not) and share it between friends and relatives when there may be isolated power outages. We saw this mentioned in the current round of east coast outages where group members loaned out generators.
Since many surplus MEP units have problems with one or more onboard gauges and replacement cost for some can be fairly high (frequency tranducers, ...), a brief note on use of a cheap external easy to use meter like a $20 Kill-A-Watt might be in order.
When it comes to generator sizing, you might want to include a note saying something like as mentioned most civilian generators are rather optimisiticly rated, but to make up for it much of the much of the generator sizing advice found online is overly conservative. (ie much advice only says things like the minimum size generator you need to run a refrigerator is 4,0000 - 5,000 watts even though most modern refrigerators have a running load of well under 500 watts)
You may want mention the group 51R as being a close substitute for the 4HN on the MEP-002a and fit in the trays with just a little wiggle room.
Ike