Clutch adjustment clevis removal?

[gringeltaube]

... if i remember right turning it out lengthening it (toward the front of truck) INCREASES free play.. and LOWERS engagement point.. ??

Or is it just the opposite...!?

Making the (push)rod longer implies sooner contact between throw-out bearing and pressure plate fingers. Less distance there = less pedal free play.

In such cases, when in doubt simply consider both extremes: way too long = no free play at all, no full engagement, -> clutch slippage...!
Way too short: free play = full pedal travel; clutch would never dis-engage...!

G.

 

[TsgtB]

Or is it just the opposite...!?

Making the (push)rod longer implies sooner contact between throw-out bearing and pressure plate fingers. Less distance there = less pedal free play.

In such cases, when in doubt simply consider both extremes: way too long = no free play at all, no full engagement, -> clutch slippage...!
Way too short: free play = full pedal travel; clutch would never dis-engage...!

G.

SO.... tell me if this sounds right.
If I can see a couple inches of threads to the rear of the jam nut.... (on my linkage)
and my current condition is that I have TOO MUCH pedal, (clutch fully engaged very close to floor).
if I lengthen the linkage, I get clutch to engage with less pedal. (trying to get more distance FROM the floor).

 

[m16ty]

SO.... tell me if this sounds right.
If I can see a couple inches of threads to the rear of the jam nut.... (on my linkage)
and my current condition is that I have TOO MUCH pedal, (clutch fully engaged very close to floor).
if I lengthen the linkage, I get clutch to engage with less pedal. (trying to get more distance FROM the floor).

Sounds like you need to lengthen your rod.

 

[TsgtB]

OK... if the rod needs to be lengthened, and if the clevis is already showing a couple of inches of threads, wouldn't that mean that the next move would be to rotate the connecting rod (terminology) on the shaft?

and the proper direction to rotate the rod, by ONE spline, on the shaft (for length) would be COUNTER clockwise....
in effect the linkage would be "longer".
or did I just loose that all together?


(or should there be enough threads on the shaft for correction...?)

 

[m16ty]

There should be enough threads on the rod unless you have other problems. Just look at the other end of the clevis and make sure you don't screw the rod all the way out of the clevis.

I'm not sure about moving the lever on the splines. It's been a long time since I've had that part apart.


Just to get all the terminology right, the rod is the threaded part that screws into the clevis. The clevis is the part that's screwed onto the rod, is shaped like a "U", and has a pin through it that attaches it to the lever. The lever is the part that is attached to the splined shaft that goes into the bell housing.

 

[TsgtB]

Sounds good. Thank you for your time and patience. It's difficult to get the questions out with the wrong terminology, but I was doing my best so someone "hopefully" could figure out what I'm asking....

Thanks again.

 

[Floridianson]

TsgtB Just rember to drop the inspection cover and look up there when your done and the engine running. The release bearing can not be spinning.

 

[Floridianson]

Need to adjust free play on clutch pedal.
since installing winch the drive shaft now blocks the clevis that ataches to the threaded arm towards the front.

How do you remove that "pin" now since there is no room to swing an object to push it through so I can turn it to adjust the clutch??
Ideas???\
(other than removing the front winch shaft)

Pair of plyers and pull or screwdriver between the head and clevis and twist.

 

[TsgtB]

I've already had to put the ball and spring back together in the clevis... that was fun.
I'll sure try not to let that happen again.
I do not have an inspection cover, didn't have one since I've owned it, but i'll find one.
Thank you.