No start frustrations.

[MyAngry85]

The 1008 wont start, used to start like a champ even after sitting for a few months at a time. Now it just cranks and cranks. Have a working manual glow plug system and new 60Gs. Pulled the fuel filter and all the seals were all cracked up so i replaced it. Still just sits and cranks. Used a small shot of silicone spray on the intake and fired right up, drove it to operating temp, shut it off, tried to start immediatly and no go, just cranks. Traced the lines and everything is dry. How often does the fuel pump still deliver enough to run but not to start? When I turn the key to on, both Gen lights light up. While trying to start, just the Gen 2 light is on. When i drove it, the bat gauge was right at the yellow/green mark, never moved back up. Thoughts or ideas?

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Check GEN 1 and front battery.

 

[MyAngry85]

The truck cranks like a champ, kinda hard to test battery and alt with out being able to start the truck.

 

[ralbelt]

There is a good thread "CUCV alternator symptoms, diagnose and fix" posted by Barrman that will walk you thru testing the alt's system with the engine off.
Also Warthog has some excellent electrical info that he has shared with us. Both are worth the time spent reading.

Sounds like you have two issues, a starting issue and a gen one issue.
Also check the cucv form for FAQ and the Tm's.

 

[MyAngry85]

I have the tms and read the faqs, well some of them. Mostly concerned about the starting issue.

 

[cpf240]

A couple of things to see if it is a fuel problem:

Replace the return line from the IP with a clear fuel line, like tygon ( I think that is how its spelled ) then you can see if air is getting in the line.

Crack the line at one of the injectors and crank it over to see if fuel is making it to the injectors.

Take the fuel supply line that feeds the IP and put it in a container of diesel, see if it will run from that. If so, then you know the IP is probably good, so look for air leaks, etc.

Do the fuel pump test from the TM's, where you take the output line of the fuel pump and feed it into a bucket, crank it over for a set number of seconds and see how much fuel it pumps.

One thing I've wondered is why I never see a suggestion to temporarily bypass the fuel filter with an inline one to see if the filter base is the problem.

Oh, and as always when troubleshooting these beasts, make sure the batteries are fully charged before starting to diagnose the problem. It is also a good idea to have them load tested if there is any question of their condition.

 

[usmcpatriot]

Do you have the old coffin fuel filter, If so go to a spin on fuel filter...

 

[MyAngry85]

I know there's threads all over for it, but is there a part number for the spin on base at a napa or something? Kinda rushing to get up and running.

 

[MyAngry85]

Ok so I found part numbers, dont see any with a sensor or a heating element.

 

[doghead]

You want a replacement that has a water drain(built into the filter can). The heater element is an accessory that you can live without.

Walmart has a housing and filter in the boat supply section, that will work.

 

[MyAngry85]

OK, I've changed the fuel pump and did the spin on conversion. They were due for a change. Truck still just sits and cranks. I cracked an injector line and nothing comes out at all, but the other day when I used spray to get it going, it ran like a top.

 

[wayne pick]

Your IP is losing prime. Check the fuel line from the tank to filter for any leaks. the line may also be porous, sucking air into the system. Lightly pressurize the fuel tank with a small compressor. It won't take much to push fuel through the lines to the fuel pump so don't over pressurize the tank. Leaks along the fuel lines can also be checked this way. Try to start the truck without using any spray. If it starts, replace the fuel lines.

 

[trukhead]

Your IP is losing prime. Check the fuel line from the tank to filter for any leaks. the line may also be porous, sucking air into the system. Lightly pressurize the fuel tank with a small compressor. It won't take much to push fuel through the lines to the fuel pump so don't over pressurize the tank. Leaks along the fuel lines can also be checked this way. Try to start the truck without using any spray. If it starts, replace the fuel lines.

Brilliant, I didn't think of doing this as well. I have a few beautiful running trucks with varying degrees of hard starting issues. I start with the electric side and do the charging and glow plug testing first and then check the filter base issues as well.

This is a perfect next step to indicate the condition of the fuel delivery side of the problems.

 

[wayne pick]

If you did the spin on conversion, there should be no issue with the filter or base. You do however have to fill the filter to the top with fuel as it will not self prime like the old style stanadyne base as there is no bleeder on the spin on filter head. An electric fuel pump mounted close to the tank will pressurize the fuel lines eliminating the need for excessive cranking when cold starting or after doing a filter service. In your climate it might be a good idea. My truck has never failed to start even in single digit tempratures with this setup.

 

[MyAngry85]

I got the stanadyne fm100, for the hand pump with it, the base also has a bleeder screw. Thinking of bypassing it and putting in a drain valve, the screw makes a big mess and can't tell off all the air is out.

 

[MyAngry85]

What do the two green plugs on the IP do? Can they have anything to do with this?

 

[wayne pick]

Hea MyAngry85, The two plugs you are referring to are for the cold advance and high idle solinoid. When you turn the ignition on, you should hear the cold start solinoid click. In warmer temps, it has little or no bearing on the engines ability to start. In cold weather, they both help make starting easier. I disconnected them as I don't like the cold advance, as I said above, I never have hard or no start issues.

 

[trukhead]

Another thread indicated that the fuel line gets porous as it ages (causing air to infiltrate and cause prime to be diminished or lost) and one can reach under the intake manifold from the rear to access things under there like fittings for changing the line. I am going to look for super duper diesel compatible fuel line and start replacing from the IP back to the filter base, filter base to lift pump etc...

CUCV hard starting in the search seems to bring up threads and references to more threads.

I will document my progress as I get to the problematic trucks I need to diagnose. It doesn't help much now but as I review posts and threads I'll send info on but I hope you get it fixed before that time.

Sorry I just realized Wayne Pick suggested this further up. I read a bunch of threads on this topic.

 

[MyAngry85]

So today I replaced the rubber lines to and from the fuel filter, hooked a line to the fuel pump and put the other end in a can of fuel. Still just cranks. Cracked an injector and nothing comes out while cranking. Hooked the fuel pump back up, re-bled the air, again, nothing. Started it up with a tiny bit of spray to recharge the batteries. Runs great hardly took anything to get it starting. Once again, trying to start it by itself proves useless.

 

[MyAngry85]

Any last words before I just order a new IP?