No start frustrations.

[JGBallew]

Ah gotchya. Now if that solenoid was bad wouldn't the truck not start at all?

Depends on how it's failing. the coil could be shorting in a way that still generates a field that allowed operation, but as it broke down, would reach a point where it clicks, but lacks the force to move the lever.
Starter solenoids sometimes will do the same thing, where thy move enough to spin the motor, but not enough to throw the drive forward.


Solenoids don't always fail in a "Good/Bad" manner.

 

[MyAngry85]

OK so I took the cover off the IP and the truck started right up. Very excited. Now what?

 

[JGBallew]

OK so I took the cover off the IP and the truck started right up. Very excited. Now what?

I'd double check the cutoff solenoid, off the truck. I bet it's weak or bad.

 

[MyAngry85]

Well if not the shut off solenoid what else would it be?

 

[markg]

Well if not the shut off solenoid what else would it be?

if you can remove the return line fitting with the checkball intact and start the truck then your flex ring is coming apart , building pressure in the housing. you can gut the return fitting of the checkball, allowing pressure relief, but you will evntually need a pump.

 

[JGBallew]

if you can remove the return line fitting with the checkball intact and start the truck then your flex ring is coming apart , building pressure in the housing. you can gut the return fitting of the checkball, allowing pressure relief, but you will evntually need a pump.

/\ This.

Try the solenoid first. If it duplicates with a new/known good solenoid, then you've confirmed you have a dying IP.

 

[MyAngry85]

What/ where is the flex ring? I don't see it in the parts breakdown in the Stanadyne manual.

 

[JGBallew]

What/ where is the flex ring? I don't see it in the parts breakdown in the Stanadyne manual.

Here's one partially mounted, and a crappy diagram pointing it out in the pump.

 

[markg]

gm had problems with pumps in 84-85 model years. the material they used would come apart inside and clog up the return line killing the engine.

i discovered all the things you are going through on the side of the road 500 miles from home. what i found was if that one minute your truck is running and the next minute it wont start something has changed inside the pump.

if you can start the truck with spray and its keeps running your problem is not what i discribed above. when the flex ring comes apart and starts to plug the return your truck will lose power and just die. it will not restart until you relieve the pressure at the return line.

the return line fiiting can be removed , dump it backwards on a hard surface and see what comes out. little black pieces? flex ring. rebuild the pump. if you have to keep going, knock the check ball out , put it back together and get on down the road. been their and done that!!

 

[JGBallew]

gm had problems with pumps in 84-85 model years. the material they used would come apart inside and clog up the return line killing the engine.

i discovered all the things you are going through on the side of the road 500 miles from home. what i found was if that one minute your truck is running and the next minute it wont start something has changed inside the pump.

if you can start the truck with spray and its keeps running your problem is not what i discribed above. when the flex ring comes apart and starts to plug the return your truck will lose power and just die. it will not restart until you relieve the pressure at the return line.

the return line fiiting can be removed , dump it backwards on a hard surface and see what comes out. little black pieces? flex ring. rebuild the pump. if you have to keep going, knock the check ball out , put it back together and get on down the road. been their and done that!!

Alcohol was killer to the material as well. Some rebuilders were shooting themselves in the foot using it as a solvent.

 

[MyAngry85]

Hmmm, well I pulled the return fitting and the truck still wont start. I pulled the cover again and tested the two solenoids in the cover with jumper wires, they both move. Just to be sure I tried to start the truck with the cover off and again it started right up. Thanks again fellas I appreciate all the help on this one.

 

[JGBallew]

Hmmm, well I pulled the return fitting and the truck still wont start. I pulled the cover again and tested the two solenoids in the cover with jumper wires, they both move. Just to be sure I tried to start the truck with the cover off and again it started right up. Thanks again fellas I appreciate all the help on this one.

Again, just because the CO solenoid moves does not mean it's good. It has to hold that lever back as long as the engine is running, and it may not be strong enough now.

 

[markg]

thats sounds cheaper than rebuilding the ip. find somebody like me with a couple of cores laying around and swap the parts you need. thanks. mark

 

[MyAngry85]

Got a new c/o solenoid today. Truck still won't start. Could it be the other solenoid in the cover. Cuz the truck doesn't start with the return fitting off either.

 

[doghead]

The solenoid that has the terminal on the TOP of the cover, if the shut-off solenoid.

The other one with the terminal on the side of the cover, is the timing advance solenoid.

Installing the top properly is important.

The correct TM for the IP is TM9-2815-237-34.

CAUTION​

When installing cover on housing, cover must be positioned on
housing ahead of threaded holes and slid rearward to align holes
in cover with threaded holes in housing. Incorrect installation of
cover may cause pump to malfunction.​

 

[MyAngry85]

I've read that before and I did it again today to make sure I put it on right. I also tested the plugs that go to the top cover and they're good. With the top cover disconnected, I put a clean hose on the return fitting and with no power cannot suck air through the return, but i can when I apply power to the solenoid. Assuming it's working properly?

 

[JGBallew]

I've read that before and I did it again today to make sure I put it on right. I also tested the plugs that go to the top cover and they're good. With the top cover disconnected, I put a clean hose on the return fitting and with no power cannot suck air through the return, but i can when I apply power to the solenoid. Assuming it's working properly?

Take some carb cleaner and make sure the check valve in that fitting is not stuck. make sure it moves easily.

Take a VOM and make sure the -tab- for the CO solenoid is not grounding to the cover in any way.
Make sure you have proper voltage to the lead. Don't just hit it with a test light.

Then ground and check operation OFF the pump. Make sure the CO solenoid moves stoutly and sharply.

Then move the lever in the IP to the OFF position and reinstall.

Make sure the cover is grounded to the housing, and the IP housing is grounded to the engine. Check it for continuity with the VOM.

It ran with the cover off. I assume you have a new CO solenoid, and not a new advance solenoid.

 

[itsunday25]

Have you checked if there was power to ip mine blow a fuse would not start hit it withl sum starting fluid ran all the way home. Shut it off no start.

 

[MyAngry85]

Take some carb cleaner and make sure the check valve in that fitting is not stuck. make sure it moves easily.

Take a VOM and make sure the -tab- for the CO solenoid is not grounding to the cover in any way.
Make sure you have proper voltage to the lead. Don't just hit it with a test light.

Then ground and check operation OFF the pump. Make sure the CO solenoid moves stoutly and sharply.

Then move the lever in the IP to the OFF position and reinstall.

Make sure the cover is grounded to the housing, and the IP housing is grounded to the engine. Check it for continuity with the VOM.

It ran with the cover off. I assume you have a new CO solenoid, and not a new advance solenoid.

Checked the check valve.

All leads have proper voltage, not much of a test light kinda guy, I keep a multimeter in my glove box.

Used jumper wires to test the NEW Co solenoid.

Cover is grounded, would have noticed lack of voltage when testing all the terminals.

Wasn't even able to find an advance solenoid online when I bought the CO solenoid.

 

[JGBallew]

Checked the check valve.

All leads have proper voltage, not much of a test light kinda guy, I keep a multimeter in my glove box.

Used jumper wires to test the NEW Co solenoid.

Cover is grounded, would have noticed lack of voltage when testing all the terminals.

Wasn't even able to find an advance solenoid online when I bought the CO solenoid.

Make sure the cover is installed correctly, as Doghead mentioned, because the only other thing it could be then is the solenoid not moving the shutoff lever.