Insane home Water/meth injection...

[Dieselking22]

Is yours a C or D turbo? Mine EGT would go to 1400 if I would keep in the throttle at 13 psi max.

What kind if kit did you buy? Or did you make it

 

[mark salanco]

Is yours a C or D turbo? Mine EGT would go to 1400 if I would keep in the throttle at 13 psi max.

What kind if kit did you buy? Or did you make it

I ordered a kit from Jwaller here on SS.i have the D turbo, I haven't stayed in the throttle long enough to really know how hot the EGT will get.

 

[mark salanco]

Dieselking, did I meet you last year at at the NASCAR race in Charlotte , bank of America 500? I was camping in the infield.

 

[Dieselking22]

I ordered a kit from Jwaller here on SS.i have the D turbo, I haven't stayed in the throttle long enough to really know how hot the EGT will get.

I am looking at one on ebay ill send you the link P.M.

No i didnt go to the Charlotte NASCAR race i went to both of the NHRA races right next to it this year.

 

[ducer]

This may sound silly but has anyone conidered injecting water between the exhaust manifold and turbo?
I could see some possible benefits to doing it this way.
1. Water to steam, water expands I believe 1600 times it's volume when turned into steam. It would make the turbo spool faster and add boost.
2. Cool the turbo, by injecting the water before the turbo the water would absorb some of the latent heat lying around. But due to the creation of the steam still retain enough energy to spin the turbo.
3. Also doing it this way you could still retain the methanol in the water to prevent freezing.
4. May be able to actualy use less water.
5. Clean up some emissions by scrubbing the exhaust kind of like def only cheaper!

The down sides would be,
1. Loss of cooling effect for exhaust valve.
2. Possible loss of any hydrogen gas created during the combustion process.
3. Minimal exhaust back pressure increase?
4. Loss of extra oxygen created during combustion process?
5. Loss of combustion cleaning.

In my experience with Buick we had to dump a he!! of a lot of water down through the carb in comarison to the fuel used to achieve any kind of cleaning of the combustion chamber. So combustion chamber cleaning may not be much of an issue. I believe the benefits may out weigh the negatives. What do you guys think? Am I or just

Denny

God I love these smileys!

 

[Heath_h49008]

You came from cars.

This isn't for increasing "boost"... the turbo's primary function is providing more air to cool the cylinder... It's a diesel thing. (Edit: Cooling is not the right term... adding air does help in power production, but on these engines it was primarily to reduce smoke)

Emissions? I don't speak French.

The water injection doesn't add Oxygen for combustion. Diesels don't have throttles, they run super lean ALL the time as viewed from a gas engine perspective. The water is strictly for cooling the piston when extra fuel is in there. It absorbs heat by change of state and any increase in power is a side benefit.

You're going to love it once you get familiar with diesel performance... But be warned... these aren't diesel engines either!

Welcome to insanity.

 

[ducer]

Yes, I came from cars. Allways hated diesels after working on them as an aprentice mechanic. Now after 28 years i am starting to forget how miserable the Olds diesel was and starting to appreciate the REAL diesel engines.

Denny

 

[Kohburn]

injecting water right before the turbo will damage the turbine blades. They will start to pit rather quickly.

 

[Heath_h49008]

I almost have my truck winterized. I think it's going to be up to the guys in warmer places to carry on the testing for the next 4 months.

 

[Heath_h49008]

Winter build season... cabin fever... tax returns....

I'm shopping pyros right now, and unless someone knows of a better deal, the Auber Instuments seems to be the best option. I will be using the EGT triggered design for my build. Boost gauge as well.

I'll post my progress as it comes together.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Heath, I saw an old post of yours on the S12 forum a few weeks ago and it reminded me of this build.

Recently switched job, and the new career is amazing, but durring training pay was much less than at my old job, I have just started to make good money again. Now? My savings is rebuilt, my new career is wonderful, Its time to finish fixing the truck and start to drive it.

Ordered the copper crush washers and the axle flange gaskets today, new fuel filters, as well as some headlamps. Need to pump all the old WMO out of the tank, hook the lines up to the wheel cylinders that I installed months ago, bleed the brakes out, replace fuel filters and headlamps, add diesel, and pray!

I figure I will drive it about 50-100 miles, then re-inspect the brakes.... I dont want to take any chances! Its been broken for 14 months. v.v

I know that I need to turn up the fuel so that it will start better with WMO, so I am just going to order the EGT/boost gauge shown here: http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=147

After that, adding this system should be a cake walk. This and adding a rear dump exhaust are high on the priority list.

EDIT: I would really enjoy seeing a summized parts list, as well as notes regaurding what we have learned, all in the first post. 15 Pages of wonderful imformation, but its easy to miss a tiny detail.

 

[Heath_h49008]

Dude! Long time no see!

Yeah, the gun stuff is on the back burner. I have bigger toys to worry about. (And school)

I'm shopping for my EGT right now. I'm getting the Auber Instruments, but I can't decide on which probe or color screen. I'm thinking short with the 1/8th NPT bung and the blue... or green... screen.

This should be a pretty good build season.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Dude! Long time no see!

Yeah, the gun stuff is on the back burner. I have bigger toys to worry about. (And school)

I'm shopping for my EGT right now. I'm getting the Auber Instruments, but I can't decide on which probe or color screen. I'm thinking short with the 1/8th NPT bung and the blue... or green... screen.

This should be a pretty good build season.

Its been way too long for me, but its been a great year! My truck has been parked for 14 months... Distracted with the purchase of my first home, then as soon as I had my savings rebuilt, I switched to a brand new career. I had to wait till I was settled in my new job, and FINALLY! I am in a position where I can have fun again.

However, today was legendary. The truck ran... THEN! Its STOPPED. It was amazing.

Personally, I like red back-lit gauges and red interior lights, so red screen only makes sense. Red light affects your night vision the least.

The pyro is on my list of things to do in the next few months or so (Regardless of power, I want to bypass the FDC and turn it up so it starts better) and my father offered to assist. Once thats done, Ill be ordering my keg and figuring out where to put it.

I think this will be my BEST build season.

BTW, which Saiga models do you own? I was trying to purchase a 7.62 with my December bonus, but its not looking good.

 

[Kohburn]

actually - red doesn't travel as far (has the lowest energy) but green has the least effect on your night vision and the most clarity.

i've always liked red, but have found green to be much more pleasant

 

[Heath_h49008]

Unless you guys have anything to say otherwise, I'm going with this one.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=231:0236b2429eab3d0eee3c32fab3cd1f3e

Red LED, sealed tip probe, 24v, standard length cable.

 

[Heath_h49008]

I'm bumping this back up for the spring build season.

I have my EGT and the boost gauge. I'm shopping Parker solenoid valves. I have been debating the "Corny Keg" and making a tank out of sched 40 or 80 PVC. Air line connected to the top, a fill port, and the drain and output line on the bottom and put check valves on both lines to prevent water from entering the air system. It should hold well over 125psi, and I would open some doors as to where I hide it.

If I run the Keg, I'm pretty much forced to stick it in between the seats, or in the front corner of the bed. I'll have to measure, but the space between the cab and bed looks like a nice chunk of unused and easily accessed protected real estate for the tank.

I'm going to trigger off the EGT "alarm" circuit, and set it for 900deg F.

More to come as the build comes together. (It's Spring break so I only have work/weather to contend with.)

 

[PsycoBob]

PVC is a really bad idea- it's attacked by UV, ozone, heat & vibration. It tends to shatter violently when it fails while pressurized with air. Google "PVC air line exploded." If your tank isn't stainless or aluminum, I wouldn't use it. Steel corrodes & plastic doesn't like UV and high pressure.

A keg tipped sideways and slanted bottom-down like it was mounted on the pioneer rack would work. If 2-3 fit, run them in series for more capacity. As I've pulled my pioneer tool rack I can't go test-fit. If there's room behind the cab for a angled keg, that'd be another option. Painting the kegs green and adding a canvas water-bucket for a hat to hide the plumbing will make them much more stealthy.

Mental note, get primer and paint for kegs.

 

[peashooter]

-

 

[welldigger]

PVC is a really bad idea- it's attacked by UV, ozone, heat & vibration. It tends to shatter violently when it fails while pressurized with air. Google "PVC air line exploded." If your tank isn't stainless or aluminum, I wouldn't use it. Steel corrodes & plastic doesn't like UV and high pressure.

A keg tipped sideways and slanted bottom-down like it was mounted on the pioneer rack would work. If 2-3 fit, run them in series for more capacity. As I've pulled my pioneer tool rack I can't go test-fit. If there's room behind the cab for a angled keg, that'd be another option. Painting the kegs green and adding a canvas water-bucket for a hat to hide the plumbing will make them much more stealthy.

Mental note, get primer and paint for kegs.

I beg to differ. Sch. 40 PVC is very tough and more than capable of handling impact and the desired psi. If it makes you feel better use sch. 80. I case wells to 600ft deep with 4" sch. 40 PVC pipe. Trust me its tough. Between the cab and bed it won't see much UV light. Even so it would take many years to degrade to the point of failure.

 

[mobileauto2000]

Never, ever use PVC for compressed air. I have see what happens when it fails and its scary. We had PVC air lines in our cabinet shop. A line ruptured and sent pieces of plastic across the shop like a shotgun blast. We had to repair a cabinet because plastic was embedded in the end of it.

There is a plastic pipe made for compressed air. I believe its made of ABS and its colored green.

Here is a link to what OSHA has to say about PVC air piping http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html