12 volt slave cable port?

[twomorestrokes]

I did a search and didn't see anything. Anyone make any changes to allow 12 volt jump starting from the slave port on a CUCV?

 

[diesel583]

NO but I put a commercial 12 volt slave port with a set of 30 foot jumper cables just under it on the grille gaurd. I use my truck for what it was built for (service truck). So at times I have to be able to jump 24 volt tractors and 12 volt trucks. It keeps the hood closed and no wrong connections.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I assume you just run that off one battery? Which one?

 

[doghead]

What ever you do, label it well. A mistake, could be deadly.

 

[jets1959]

12 volt slave cable adapter

Would like pictures of the install and a part number, manufacture name or web site for the slave port. Would like to do the same mod to mine!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Parts are easy. Plenty of suppliers online. Northern Tool has them:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_43494_43494

 

[twomorestrokes]

That is a good alternative, but I was wondering about rewiring the EXISTING boost port on the truck to 12v so I could make my own jumper cable set using a military style plug end and a pair of clamps on the other end for the dead 12v slave vehicle's battery.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I use Anderson connectors on my stuff. You could rewire your slave port to 12V pretty easily but I would label it with a neon sign. Only the popuation of a small prison cell would even question the voltage on that since 99.99999999999% of them are configured for 24V.

 

[pigfoot63]

I have mine wired with anderson connectors under the hood. This way I can use 12 or 24 . I have the nato connector in front as well as one one the back. I use these to power my slide in winch as well as the slide in hoist I made to help load heavy stuff in my bed.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Thanks for the cautionary posts. The chances of me ever needing to hook up to a second 24v vehicle that happens to have a single pin boost connector on it would seem slim to none. Also, the chance of another CUCV coming to my aid with another single pin port and a military boost cable seems even more unlikely. I will label it just in case.

I am assuming that I would just need to rewire the single pin connector to the front battery only, and then I could use the connector (and a specially made up jumper cable) to jump start civi vehicles, or in turn jump start my own truck from a 12v civi vehicle if needed.

 

[diesel583]

I got mine from Northern Tool, it's the same thing you see on the front bumper of any wrecker. It is hooked to the front battery. I;ve got extra slave connectors but was not comfortable with them on 12 volts because somebody will plug them to 24 when I'm not looking. So this way there is no way to make a mistake. Don't ever let anybody under the hood with regular jumper cables, It gets expensive fast.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

Just a thought... Hook it up through a battery cutoff like one of these. I know the plastic one has a removable key that must be left in position for the circuit to be active. For that matter, you could bring up power for both 12v and 24v through two disconnects and select which disconnect to provide power to the connector.

Even if you decide to leave it unswitched, it wouldn't hurt to put a fusable link inline with the power lead / leads... There is always a chance that you might end up with a group of other MV types and someone else with a slave cable... It could happen!

 

[Warthog]

Thanks for the cautionary posts. The chances of me ever needing to hook up to a second 24v vehicle that happens to have a single pin boost connector on it would seem slim to none. Also, the chance of another CUCV coming to my aid with another single pin port and a military boost cable seems even more unlikely. I will label it just in case.

Not trying to rain on your parade, just asking questions.

So you are NEVER going to sell the truck? Will you remember to tell the future owner that the NATO plug is now 12v?

Will you ever loan the truck to someone for the day and they try to jumpstart someone?

I bought a CUCV-II last summer and the National Guard unit I got it from fried the electronic PCM trying to jumpstart the truck. They supplied 24v thru the 12v side. They are exposed to the 24v systems all the time and they made a mistake hooking up some jumper cables. Like DH said earlier, mixing 12v and 24v can be deadly when the sparks start flying.

And I made a mistake a couple of months ago. I "loaned" my CUCV-II to a friend for a week when his car was in the shop (won't do that again). The truck wouldn't start one morning so he called AAA for a jump start. The tow truck guy attempted to jump start the truck. Only problem is he had no clue on how to hookup. Luckily my buddy called me before the tow truck driver fried something. Sent the driver on his way and I went out and fixed it. Ended up the negative post was loose. A simple fix.

The bad part is the batteries where CLEARLY marked on the voltage and how to hookup. People just don't read or pay attention. I'm not worried about you, it is the other guy that worries me.

I did a search and didn't see anything. Anyone make any changes to allow 12 volt jump starting from the slave port on a CUCV?

To answer your original question, yes it is simple to do.

However, if someone posted instructions on how to do it, being a moderator, I would probably delete the instructions as the liablity is too great. People are stupid and they could injure/kill themselves and then blame this website.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

The bad part is the batteries where CLEARLY marked on the voltage and how to hookup. People just don't read or pay attention. I'm not worried about you, it is the other guy that worries me.

Yep.


I considered doing the same thing - converting the NATO connector to 12V. Then I decided it was just asking for trouble. I get enough without asking for it.

One of these days I'm going to install a proper 12V civvy jumper setup, like what I posted. No questions, no problems, and really, not all that expensive.

It's cheap insurance.

 

[doghead]

I think I recall this same topic coming up some time back. I recall it went just as this one is.

Just the other day, a member I have never met, posted he needed a jump(24V slave). If you see a similar post n the future, you won't be able to help if you modify your slave port.

I think the addition of the other parts, is the best option.

 

[Recovry4x4]

A word on Anderson connectors. The 250A versions are popular in the automotive world. I did all mine with grey connectors before I realized that the colors represented voltage. For as cheap as these are, why not just add one. I would bet that one could buy 4 Anderson connector for the price of one NOS slave cable end. The 50A versions are great for small stuff such as compressors and the like.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

A word on Anderson connectors.

Okay, I'm a dummy. What's an Anderson connector? Is that the name of the jumper connector like I posted from Northern?

 

[Recovry4x4]

http://www.windsun.com/Hardware/AndersonSB.htm

 

[jets1959]

12 volt slave cable port

Was thinking of installing these allstars with the bracket on the front bumper. www.pitstopusa.com/c-132363-electrical-system-battery-battery-charging-post.hmtl

 

[Recovry4x4]

Sorry about just giving a link, smartphones aren't so smart. The Anderson connectors are like the ones in the Northern listing. I even have one on my golfcart. I was wrong on my post above. It's not a 250A version most popular with automotive, it's the 175A. There is a 50, 120, 175 and 350. I use 175s and 50s. I even have an adapter cable that goes from 175 to 50. These are the SB series and can be had with many different AWG ends for each size connector. Here is a link to the color standard chart that I was unaware of when I started using these. http://www.andersonpower.com/products/colorcode_mp.html