A question about M35A2 running lights

[heywood]

When I select Service drive mode on the multi function light switch I'm only getting headlights and tail lights.I dont get the front running lights.Front turn signal lights operate fine and the front running lights operate in the Park mode but not in Service Drive.

Is this normal?
Also, I believe my horn is supposed to be disabled in the Blackout mode but it operates in B/O drive and B/O service. Normal?

Any help is appreciated,Thanks

 

[Evil Dr. Porkchop]

Your front lights are operating correctly.

 

[greg burns]

heywood:
I don't know about the horn. I think the lights are functioning correctly. Erik's Military Surplus sells an adapter for 82.50 that connects to the main light switch. It allows the use of the front yellow running lights when in the service drive mode.

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/liswadcafrma.html

greg

 

[rronning84]

Mine do that too. Also all of my clearance lights automatically come on with the master power switch.

 

[doghead]

Read the -10TM. It covers all the basics.

 

[KsM715]

Yes, its in the manual, and with a search you can find out how to "mod" them to come on with the headlights.

 

[steelandcanvas]

To get the front "parking lights" to come on, turn the left lower switch to "PARK". In the "SERVICE DRIVE" position, the tail lights will stay on, the headlights will turn off. If you haven't already done so, download 9-2320-209-10 (Operator's Manual), lots of good reading in there to get familiar with your truck.

 

[silverstate55]

heywood:
I don't know about the horn. I think the lights are functioning correctly. Erik's Military Surplus sells an adapter for 82.50 that connects to the main light switch. It allows the use of the front yellow running lights when in the service drive mode.

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/liswadcafrma.html

greg

Greg has a great suggestion; I installed this adapter and it works AWESOME. Plus it dims the flasher light on the steering column, so I don't get blinded at night anymore when using turn signals. Very easy to install.

 

[heywood]

thanks ksm715 for that useful chart.
About converting the lights myself,I tried doing a bunch of searches on google as well as this site and havent been able to find any disscussions on how to get the front drive lights to come on in service drive mode.Icould just buy the adapter from Eriks military surplus but it seems like it should only be a couple of jumper wires or is it more complicated that that?
I would really prefer to do this myself (I have spent way too much lately on the deuce).
Any help? If you could forward the correct site to find it I would owe you one.Or if you happen to know how its done and could explain I would be in your debt.

Thanks

 

[gringeltaube]

You just need a jumper between wires #491 and #21. Or run a wire between terminals L and H, on the light switch.

See it here....


G.

 

[heywood]

that worked great..Thanks a bunch saved me 85 dollars.I was going to buy that adapter from ERIKS MILITARY SURPLUS
Now i dont need to.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

I went fancy, I put a hulking diode across the wires rather than just jumpering it. Parking lights still act as parking lights, front ambers are also now running lights.

 

[73m819]

I went fancy, I put a hulking diode across the wires rather than just jumpering it. Parking lights still act as parking lights, front ambers are also now running lights.

How about a p/n for the diode, thanks

 

[Cleveland Iron]

Just went to Radio Shack and grabbed a 3 amp diode with a peak inverse voltage above 30V. ( 3 amps would handle 72 watts of lights, plenty of leeway and no worries about the component heating up ) Turned out to be 1N5402. Looked it up: Catalog #: 276-1143

I also trimmed and folded the leads and slipped the diode into a rubber fuse holder. That way if there were any problems (reversed polarity - whatever), pulling the diode would be a non-issue.



Front marker lights = good.

 

[dmmay]

Just read what Gringeltaube posted and pull your 3 level switch and make a jumper wire from the "H" wire to the "L" wire and you will have front running light with headlights and the lights will all function correctly even when you trun your AUX switch the headlights will still turn offlike it should

 

[Cleveland Iron]

Just read what Gringeltaube posted and pull your 3 level switch and make a jumper wire from the "H" wire to the "L" wire and you will have front running light with headlights and the lights will all function correctly even when you trun your AUX switch the headlights will still turn offlike it should

And Yes this will absolutely positively work as promised.

What My circuit does also keeps the function of the parking lights. Cost is under $5.00. I

t comes down to, if you don't care about parking light function then you jumper.

If you care about having parking lights you use the diode in place of the jumper. The diode allows the headlight circuit to power the parking lights as markers but prevents the parking lights from powering headlights.

Just providing an alternative to the jumper. What is actually done is up to whomever makes the mod. It is simply not my call.

 

[Flyingvan911]

I also bought the adapter from Erik's. I can't wait to install it. I hope it works the same as the diode idea. I just don't like the though of splicing into old wires more than absolutely needed.

 

[AceHigh]

I also bought the adapter from Erik's. I can't wait to install it. I hope it works the same as the diode idea. I just don't like the though of splicing into old wires more than absolutely needed.

Just looking at Erik's adapter, it does not look like there is a diode but in his description it says "The adapter cable does not affect the blackout lights or the parking light mode (they continue to work as normal)." and that would imply it does. Please post your results. It looks like the "Cleveland Iron" diode mod is the way to go.

 

[tamtrans]

Horn does not disable in Bo drive. Your lights are working the way they were designed too. If its not broke don't fix it.

 

[Cleveland Iron]

I hate splices too! I try to avoid them whenever I can reasonably avoid them. I'm also a big fan of solder, a little bit of electrical tape to protect the soldered joint and heat shrink tubing to dang well make the joint water proof. There is no such thing as paranoia when Murphy is lurking in the background waiting for sloppy work. I've seen too many of those crimp splices fail from corrosion or mechanical problems.