s-250 A/C and Heat

[bc56845]

Hello, I'm new to the site, I hope I'm posting this in the right section. I'm in the process of looking for an s-250 shelter to build a camper out of. I'm in North Carolina and I've found a few that I'm gonna go look at in a couple weeks. Im trying to figure out if its worth it to get one with A/C and heat. I'll definitly have both in the camper, just dont know if I wanna pay for one with military A/C and heat or do my own thing. Ive read several posts about the heaters being really loud. Are the A/C units just as loud? Also, do the A/C units run on 110 or 220? Are the fuel heaters 24V, and are all the heaters fuel heaters, or are some electric? I have access to a good rooftop a/c unit, and I'm aware of the water leaking issue when you put these on the roof of an s-250, but I'm prepared to deal with that by raising it up if I have to. I have a lot of questions, I'm just trying to prepare myself with as much info as I can before I go shopping for a shelter. Thanks

 

[NEIOWA]

I (my Fire Dept) has 5x that we got with plan of reuse ss radio repeater shacks for new county emergency radio system. Very good unused condition SF PSYOPS (1990 vintage) mobile print shops. One darkroom/photolab/typsetting unit and one printing press/papercutter unit per set. Each shelter has 2x AC/heater units on the front wall (220v 1Ph). 6000btu as I recall.

Heaters work great but as you stated blowers are rather loud. Same blower is used for A/C so just as loud. A/C all would need to be recharged and this is R-12 (s I recall) this an old refrigerant which is now only used in commerical stuff/expensive. Have 100a breakerbox/electrical system (no main breaker) and flouresent lights (and blackout light system on door switch).

There is a HUGE variety of S250 configurations and heater and A/C install. 1ph or 3ph, single or dual 110v or 220v.

I don't think I'd spend much extra for the OEM heater/A/C units unless you want milspec look. Will likely be less expensive to install a new window A/C and a heater unit of whatever type/fuel. Prewired is likely more relavant/worthwhile

 

[JH1]

I use and recommend a propane heater, but not just any one. The Mr. Buddy heater (I think that's the name) is the only on on the market that has a shutdown valve that senses low oxygen. They claim that the safety problems with indoor propane is that carbon monoxide (deadly) can build up. True. So some people use a carbon monoxide alarm. That's a good thing. Even better is not to have it turned on when you are sleeping. Even better yet is what Mr. Buddy does. They use a low oxygen sensor, reasoning that the whole reason that carbon monoxide builds up is because the oxygen gets used up to the point that the oxygen to propane ratio gets out of whack and causes incomplete combustion, which is why the carbon monoxide starts forming. So, by sensing the lowering oxygen content in the room, they shut down before any carbon monoxide has a chance to even form. That's their story and they're sticking to it.
Jim

 

[decodeme2]

Got a Really Really nice S250, With A/C, Outlets, Alumium Roof Platform, Flag Pole holder, fresh interior paint, freash carc green exterior paint. Complete with 110V Ac outlets inside. Tested and everything works great. One of the nicest ones i found or seen. Everything new, new door, gaskets, etc..
Will try and get some pics if interested...Alos have several S280 shelters.
Kevin..301.922.2009 cell anytime. Md. area..

 

[bc56845]

I use and recommend a propane heater, but not just any one. The Mr. Buddy heater (I think that's the name) is the only on on the market that has a shutdown valve that senses low oxygen. They claim that the safety problems with indoor propane is that carbon monoxide (deadly) can build up. True. So some people use a carbon monoxide alarm. That's a good thing. Even better is not to have it turned on when you are sleeping. Even better yet is what Mr. Buddy does. They use a low oxygen sensor, reasoning that the whole reason that carbon monoxide builds up is because the oxygen gets used up to the point that the oxygen to propane ratio gets out of whack and causes incomplete combustion, which is why the carbon monoxide starts forming. So, by sensing the lowering oxygen content in the room, they shut down before any carbon monoxide has a chance to even form. That's their story and they're sticking to it.
Jim

Yeah, I've got a couple buddy heaters. That's what i was planning on using if the diesel heater isnt going to work for me.

 

[bc56845]

So does the refridgerant get evacuated from all of the A/C units before they can be sold?

 

[MWMULES]

So does the refridgerant get evacuated from all of the A/C units before they can be sold?

Pretty much that's what happens anymore, but I picked up a S280 with a civi rv ac/heater in the roof 2 months ago from GL and it was charged and works great. In my 250 I used a regular 110V ceramic household heater and it will run you out of there on high.

 

[135gmc]

One version of an S-250 (1980 / 1990) used an AC that was mounted on the hinge side of the door. It was 6000 BTU cooling, and I think about 1500/1800 watts of heat. They usually used R-22 Freon. Some of the Freon was pulled when the units were surplused, and some leaked out due to the design of the ACs. Any commercial 6000 BTU AC would be built as a sealed unit, with silver soldered connections on everything. The military decided that everything had to be replaceable so there are lots of O ring seals with bolted flanges, plus a very sophisticated design (which means even more flanged joints). The design can't help but very very slowly leak Freon I bought a new 6000 BTU AC last year, sealed in the box with a barrier bag and dessicant, and it was empty (20 years old, though). I pulled a vacuum on it and recharged it and it worked fine.

I can't handle the added length on my S-250, so I'm going with a Polar Cub RV AC on the roof. Since the edges of the roof are higher than the center of the roof, I'm going to make a 1/2" thick riser so water can't pool around the AC.

 

[blisters13]

The unit I have is 115 volts a.c. single-phase, runs on R-22 refrigerant, and is loud, especially on HI. It pulls 17 amps on HI heat.

 

[135gmc]

So does the refridgerant get evacuated from all of the A/C units before they can be sold?

Newer units have the freon removed before they are surplused. All it would take to get them up and running again would be to pull a vacuum on them for about an hour, then refill with freon. Some of the surplused ACs are 20 years old, and they have lost their freon through normal seepage through gaskets/etc. I bought a 20 year old unit, recharged it, and it runs like a charm. Since these are designed with replaceable refrigeration parts, they will never be 100% tight, but if you have some Freon 22 available, they will run for years with a little touch-up from time to time.