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15/16 is 5/8 stud, 1 1/8 is 3/4 stud. If using standard bolts and nuts. Can also get heavy duty nuts, they are larger outside dia. The 1 1/8 would be 1 1/4 for a heavier duty nut.
Dennis
Dennis
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Mounting Split Rims w/tires
- Thread starter Cdub
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Cdub
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The wheel locking ring nuts seem to indecated a different type of wheel design.
Type I - Rim bolt nuts take a size 1 1/8" socket and use a 3/4" stud. The smaller half of the rim seals on the top of the O-ring using a rectangle type of O-ring.
Type II - Rim bolt nuts take a size 15/16" socket and use a 5/8" stud. The smaller half of the rim seals on the outside of the O-ring sliding down the side using a round O-ring. It's a more common type of O-ring seal.
I would never think that there was a difference in the 10 bolt combat rims but there IS...
Cheers,
C'dub
Type I - Rim bolt nuts take a size 1 1/8" socket and use a 3/4" stud. The smaller half of the rim seals on the top of the O-ring using a rectangle type of O-ring.
Type II - Rim bolt nuts take a size 15/16" socket and use a 5/8" stud. The smaller half of the rim seals on the outside of the O-ring sliding down the side using a round O-ring. It's a more common type of O-ring seal.
I would never think that there was a difference in the 10 bolt combat rims but there IS...
Cheers,
C'dub
Cdub
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Yes Dennis, That's just what I measured on the wheels.....Stretch44875 said:
![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]"){kind=icon}
Thanks,
C'dub
Cdub
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Hi Mark,
I just spoke with Memphis Truck Parts about a O ring seal and we started discussing the difference between the wheels with the 5/8" stud and the 3/4" stud wheels (10 bolt combat five ton rims).
The parts guy John refered to them as:
A1 wth 5/8" lock ring bolts
A2 with 3/4" lock ring bolts
and yes, each one takes a different O ring
Thanks,
Craig
I just spoke with Memphis Truck Parts about a O ring seal and we started discussing the difference between the wheels with the 5/8" stud and the 3/4" stud wheels (10 bolt combat five ton rims).
The parts guy John refered to them as:
A1 wth 5/8" lock ring bolts
A2 with 3/4" lock ring bolts
and yes, each one takes a different O ring
Thanks,
Craig
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I just got an M936A2 with what I think has the A1 rims (based on quote). Before I started searching for information on the rims, I took one of the tires to two different tire shops (truck tire guys) to get a "leak" fixed. The first guys said I needed a seal. I got them one of the large O rings, but they said it wasn't the right thing. I took it to another shop, and they told me the same thing. I can't seem to find any information on the A1 O-ring/seal. Does someone have some drawing or pics of how the A1 seal works? My concern is that the guys at the tire shops destroyed and evidence of what should have been there or how it should be installed. A source of the correct O-ring would also be appreciated.
4x4e350
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I have both the A1 and A2 rims, I just got for my 5 ton. I recieved new O-rings for the A2 rims, but none for the A1 rims.
Does anyone have part #'s for the two kinds of O-rings, and a good supplier?
Been putting 6 of these together, if anyone needs a good work out, this will do it!
Does anyone have part #'s for the two kinds of O-rings, and a good supplier?
Been putting 6 of these together, if anyone needs a good work out, this will do it!
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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If the A1 rims are like the ones I worked on this week, they use a 3/8 O-ring. What size did you get?
4x4e350
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3/8 O-ring sounds about right. The pic of the rim is what I believe to be the A1 rim (5/8 bolt), the others on the truck are A2's (3/4 bolts)
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gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Yup, I was working on rims just like those only they had 20 studs holding them together. They both use the large O-ring though. When you assembled the rim, did you use any lube on the O-ring? There were issues with the ones not lubed and no issues with the ones lubed.
4x4e350
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The four A2's on the truck, I used RTV on new O-rings, which are smaller than the A1 O-ring. It's been 24 hours and so far none of them have lost pressure, so hopefully they will be OK with the RTV, rather than lube.
I tried using RTV on one of the A1 rims, but I didn't expect it to hold air, because the O-ring that was on the rim had cracks, and was dry rotted, so I need two new O-rings for the A1 rims. Just need a part # if anyone may have it?
I tried using RTV on one of the A1 rims, but I didn't expect it to hold air, because the O-ring that was on the rim had cracks, and was dry rotted, so I need two new O-rings for the A1 rims. Just need a part # if anyone may have it?
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Do you have a seal store anywhere? You can take the old O-ring and have them match it up or make a new one. Should be less than $10-12.
4x4e350
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I will check around, thanks for the tip.
Hooty481
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eastern surplus has the cheapest o-rings that i have found. they are 12 or 12.50 cant remember
indy4x4fab
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O.k., going to put it out there, has any one dismounted stock duece rims or stock 5 ton rims? And if so what tools did you use and how well did it go?
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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The pics are in backward order from when we got the new server, and some text is missing. Feel free to contact with questions.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/18810-deuce-tire-rim-break-down.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/18810-deuce-tire-rim-break-down.html
4x4e350
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Finally got all 6 tires and rims mounted today, so I will give you my tips on what I learned, atleast to get the A1(5/8" bolts, 15/16" socket) and the A2(3/4" bolts, 1 1/8" socket) rims mounted with no leaks. I had four of the A2's, and 2 of the A1's.
A2's, all four of these were pretty straight forward, I recieved four new O-rings with these, the O-rings were all 19.5" diameter, with a 1/4" cross section. I just cleaned the rims real good with a wire brush, cleaned all the junk out of the o-ring grooves, slipped the o-ring on the rim, applied black RTV above and below the o-ring, slipped the tire over, added the rim half above, started the nuts, then tightened the nuts down a little at a time, continuously moving 180 degrees from each nut. All went real well, and had no leaks.
A1's, I wont go into details of all the trials I had, but this is what finally worked the best. I had pulled the old o-ring out of the rims, and they were all cracked, and had rust sticking to them, so I took the best cross section measurment I could, and thought it was 3/8", I'm really thinking these may actually be 5/16", but the 3/8" worked. I called everywhere, and no one could get me o-rings 19.5" diameter with a cross section of 3/8". The only place that could get me some, was just going to make them by crazy glueing them together. So I figured if they could do it, I would try it and see how making my own o-ring would work. So I ordered 10 feet of 3/8" o-ring material from Mcmaster-Carr, along with some Locktite 404(just like crazy glue but quick set). I was very impressed at how well this worked, once the o-ring was glued together, and I held pressure for a minute, I could not pull it apart! I will be making all my own o-rings for now on! I tried RTV on these, my conclusion, DO NOT USE RTV on the A1's, I ended up cleaning it all off, and that was a real pain. There is no groove on these rims, the o-ring is pushed into place by pressure, so the RTV just held the o-ring from sliding into position. I ended up using STP oil treatment on both halves of the rim, and generously on the o-ring, after thoroughly cleaning both surfaces(critical on this rim type). On one of the rims, after building about 30 psi, I still could not get the o-ring to seal, so I slightly loosend all the bolts, and then it sealed! I can only assume by loosening these bolts, it allowed the o-ring to be pushed into place by the pressure, then I re-tightened all the bolts, it sealed up great. I didn't have to do this to the other rim, so I'm not sure what the difference was.
Another critical item I found, was a clamp on tire filling nozel, that was open all the time. This allowed more air flow for sealing the beads, rather than the push on then open type.
I also used some grease to seal some of the leaks around the beads, to get them to seal all around, I dont recommend this, because it is such a mess, but it has worked for me on these big tires, and some others in the past. I also had to use a large ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire, to get the beads pushed out enough to almost seal, then the grease came out as a last resort. What can I say it worked, and now I have the 14 x 20's mounted on the 5 ton!
But I may need a few more pain killers tonight!
A2's, all four of these were pretty straight forward, I recieved four new O-rings with these, the O-rings were all 19.5" diameter, with a 1/4" cross section. I just cleaned the rims real good with a wire brush, cleaned all the junk out of the o-ring grooves, slipped the o-ring on the rim, applied black RTV above and below the o-ring, slipped the tire over, added the rim half above, started the nuts, then tightened the nuts down a little at a time, continuously moving 180 degrees from each nut. All went real well, and had no leaks.
A1's, I wont go into details of all the trials I had, but this is what finally worked the best. I had pulled the old o-ring out of the rims, and they were all cracked, and had rust sticking to them, so I took the best cross section measurment I could, and thought it was 3/8", I'm really thinking these may actually be 5/16", but the 3/8" worked. I called everywhere, and no one could get me o-rings 19.5" diameter with a cross section of 3/8". The only place that could get me some, was just going to make them by crazy glueing them together. So I figured if they could do it, I would try it and see how making my own o-ring would work. So I ordered 10 feet of 3/8" o-ring material from Mcmaster-Carr, along with some Locktite 404(just like crazy glue but quick set). I was very impressed at how well this worked, once the o-ring was glued together, and I held pressure for a minute, I could not pull it apart! I will be making all my own o-rings for now on! I tried RTV on these, my conclusion, DO NOT USE RTV on the A1's, I ended up cleaning it all off, and that was a real pain. There is no groove on these rims, the o-ring is pushed into place by pressure, so the RTV just held the o-ring from sliding into position. I ended up using STP oil treatment on both halves of the rim, and generously on the o-ring, after thoroughly cleaning both surfaces(critical on this rim type). On one of the rims, after building about 30 psi, I still could not get the o-ring to seal, so I slightly loosend all the bolts, and then it sealed! I can only assume by loosening these bolts, it allowed the o-ring to be pushed into place by the pressure, then I re-tightened all the bolts, it sealed up great. I didn't have to do this to the other rim, so I'm not sure what the difference was.
Another critical item I found, was a clamp on tire filling nozel, that was open all the time. This allowed more air flow for sealing the beads, rather than the push on then open type.
I also used some grease to seal some of the leaks around the beads, to get them to seal all around, I dont recommend this, because it is such a mess, but it has worked for me on these big tires, and some others in the past. I also had to use a large ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire, to get the beads pushed out enough to almost seal, then the grease came out as a last resort. What can I say it worked, and now I have the 14 x 20's mounted on the 5 ton!
But I may need a few more pain killers tonight!
I also have both types of rims. I had 3 that were leaking and found a local truck place to do the work. They ordered the seals for me and upon pulling the wheels apart noted the different o rings. So, I had them order 2 of the large and 2 small type so I would have extras. I pulled my spare apart because it was leaking. It also has the large o ring. The tire had been sealed with some RTV or silicone. Real pain to get clean. Since this is an A1 rim I won't be using any sealant but will use tire lubricant on the o ring and around the metal contact areas.