Hello.
I recently got a military jerry can for free. It is a USMC model made in 5/94 (the year and month I was born). It has many leaks and holes in the bottom, the largest being about 3/8 inch long. I would like to repair this can if possible. The holes are too big to use a liquid sealer, and I think welding is my only option. I tried brazing it with a propane torch and silver solder but with no success (the solder wouldnt stick/wick....it just beaded off). What am I doing wrong there?
I was thinking I could just weld up the holes, is that possible with a wire feed flux core hobart 140 welder? I'm by no means an experience welder but I have done some pretty good jobs on thick metal in the past.
Lastly, I could bring it to a welding shop to fix it? Would that be economical and would it be easier to just cut the whole bottom off and take out like 1/2 inch and weld a new whole bottom on?
I realize I could just get a new one, but they arent very cheap anymore, and I like a good project! If I can get it fixed it will be used for diesel fuel.
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks,
Will
To make it "oil tight" without hot work you can use fiberglass as follows:
1. Grind bottom surface of can 100% (including inside surfaces of side extension).
2. Blow dust/debris from surfaces with compressed air.
3. Using cotton rag, wipe down surfaces with liberal amounts of acetone & dry surfaces with compressed air.
4. Procure/obtain about 4 sq feet of 1 1/2 oz chopped strand fiberglass cloth & a quart of resin. (Unit price cheaper by gallon but the resin has a very limited shelf life.)
5. Cut out a sheet (scissors cut) that fits the bottom shape as close as possible. Don't make it too tight...loose fit is better. This particular cloth has random pattern fiberglass strands "laminated" to form 2 layers. Carefully separate the two layers (just like a 2-layer paper towel sheet).
6. Take some of the remaining (uncut) cloth on hand and tear away a couple dozen of pieces about 2" across. These pieces will be for rolling up the edge or "flange" at the bottom. The "half layer" material will be easier to work, so take some of the large sheet remaining and tear it (into 1 layer) like you did before for the bottom pieces. These pieces should resemble snowflakes--do not cut the pieces with a scissors.
7. Mix up about a half of a small soup can of resin & hardener (aka catalyst). Using a throw-away chip brush, apply the resin to the bottom of the can. Now press the 1st piece you cut to fit on top of the resin & apply more resin until the white strands turn "clear" & there's no air bubbles. Once the first layer is done, you can add the 2nd layer and wet with resin until it completely saturated.
8. At this time you can start applying the torn pieces to overlap the bottom piece and work it up the sides. (Won't hurt if if laps over the very edge (bottom knife-edge) of the can--provided you grinded on this surface too. ) Apply the random small pieces all the way around the perimeter. Remember--the resin will start to kick (cure) in about 10 minutes or less depending on how much hardener you mixed in. You need to be working pretty fast.
9. Let this batch dry for at least 4 hours (it should be cured in less than 30 minutes).
10. Prepare the surface to do another batch by grinding/sanding any loose cloth strands or any air bubbles you see (which you shouldn't have).
11. After prepping the surfaces, blow down the dust & do a light Acetone wipe, allow to dry & then add 2 more "half-layers" of the chopped strand and more of the small random pieces around the edges.
12. When it's all done, let it cure overnight, do a water test the next day & you shouldn't have any leaks. This method will be fine for either gas or diesel.
13. Once you're done with leak test, allow to dry, do an 80 grit sanding and apply your ODG paint. Repair will last longer than the rest of the can....
A few general comments:
1. FG work can be a little messy. I use latex mechanics gloves from HF.
2. You can reuse your brush if you clean it with Acetone prior to the resin curing.
3. Lots of fumes produced--this is an outside job or in a shop with good air flow.
4. This same material & process also works great for truck beds, floor pans, trailer beds etc...obviously not OEM but if you need function over restoration, this is the ticket.
5. If you're not familiar with these materials & processes, best to practice on a piece of cardboard mocked up to resemble the can bottom....
6. All standard safety procedures apply.
7. The above instructions sound complicated but the job can be completed in two hours or less, depending on your skills & hands-on experience. This means about an hour for the 1st cycle and another hour for the 2nd cycle, including the paint work at the end.
