FatBuddhaBoo
Member
- 330
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- 18
- Location
- Jacksonville, Fl
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I took two pieces of metal with me when I bought the sheet metal and had the guy mic them just to be certain (one from the floor and one from the top); the floor measured 16 gauge and the roof 18 gauge. The roof is considerably thinner than the floor, much like the side sheet metal. However, I most likely will fill in the side panels between the windows with 16 gauge as it is easier to work with.Looking good! Is the hardtop actually 18 gauge? Or is that just what your using? I've been debating on 16 or 18 for the top.
Thanks. There are actually numerous threads on here, just search for "crew cab" and you'll find them. Many are what gave me the inspiration and some almost a step by step on how to do it. Of course I added my own twist on it, and will be adding an even bigger one after the crew cab is finished. My original project was going to be a crew cabbed M109, but decided to do this then build my own camper/box on the back. This portion will be much more involved and labor intensive, but when complete will definitely be one of a kind!I just read this entire thread and really enjoyed it. It has given me some great ideas. This is the first time I have seen someone turn their deuce into a crew cab. I had heard of it but never seen it. Yours looks awesome. Would you happen to know of any 2 1/2 ton deuces for sale around Jacksonville? I am only about 5 1/2 hours from there so if i could find one their it would be better than driving to Memphis. Thanks in advance
Even with taking the vent out of the second cab there will be plenty of leg room. This is especially true should i opt to use the seats from an extended cab truck versus a full size king cab truck. Not sure where I'll be putting the spare tire...when I get one.Im about 2 weeks from starting a crew build, myself. Id really like to leave space for the spare between the cab and bed. Im liking the way you went for that but.. ill have to play with various mock-ups to see whats best for mine. You're doing a helluva job though! :thumbup:
I read in some other crew cab build threads that the sheet metal kinda "rolls into place". Looking at it tonight with the top in the garage, I may add two more cross bars at the roll points to help it roll in. I'll also be clamping the ends down, so hoping that helps form it in place. Analyzing everything in hopes of doing it right the first time...Are you just going to bend the metal as you go (from side to side) to form the curves at each end?
Yeah, took my time, measured several times, left it a little wide to allow for error and I still somehow got it wrong. So instead of having one piece to weld in I will now have three pieces to weld in. Only saving grace is that the three pieces makes it easier to work with. The rolled sides came out good too. The 18 gauge didn't simply roll into place, but it wasn't that hard to made a few gently bends in it. Should have the entire top completed by Sunday at the latest. I'll post pics then.Just take your time and be gentle with it.
Very observant! Yes there is a slight inward slope, mostly because I had to split the top due to a error in measuring (don't ask me how I did that) and because the front part of the roof has an inward slope as well due to warping. I tried my best to pound it out and keep it that way, but even the slightest touch it would snap back inward (this was both before and after welding). I filled in the gap with a little body filler today in hopes to alleviate the severity, but believe it or not the water seems to naturally roll down the slope and off the front when level. I'll see how it works out once everything is sanded and primed.Is it just the pictures or does the roof slope inward towards the middle? If it does it will collect water and promote rust.
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