goldneagle's M923 plus M109 Camper hybrid mod thread...

[goldneagle]

My pleasure goldeneagle!
Welcome to the next phase of your mv addiction!
I know when I started my build, there was more time spent laboring over what and where everything was going to go and how it was going to work, than time spent actually working on it.
There is a lot of design on the fly prosses that goes into a man cave camper!
Concerning the air conditioner, if I might suggest, a window shaker with heat usally starts around 12k btu, that requires a much larger hole to mount and may be way overkill for the qubic feet.
Since your using propane, a small rv furnace would work nice for heat,and you could use a smaller ac unit, say 6k to 8k btu.

How about one of these type systems? Only 9000 BTU A/C and 11000 Heat. I may even find one that has 2 outputs and install one in the cab.

 

[goldneagle]

After talking it over with a couple of members i decided to purchase a Humvee Alternator with 24 volt and 12 volt outputs. Rated 400 AMPS! WOW. Going to use the 12 volt power for the 2 or 4 batteries in the camper and some accessories in the cab. I was told the alternator should fit right in where the existing one is. I decided that my 12 volt needs were better served with this system than a battery equalizer. I may use the battery box from the cab inside the camper to house the batteries for it. I was planning on relocating the cab batteries outside to a exterior box. I will only have 1 passenger seat in the cab this time. The truck will be for camping purposes and only one passenger (my wife). The seat will either be a good springer seat or air-ride seat. Next to the seat will go a cooler or storage of some sort. This way we have room for cold drinks and snack food along the trip.

I also picked up some 1/4" black plastic tubing to use for the replacement vent tube on the fuel tank.

As far as the battery storage for the 24 volt system. I was having a big discussion with Jeff Davis about using 2 or 4 batteries. Jeff said I should use 2 for the 24 volt side and 4 for the 12 volt side. If I only need 2 batteries then i can install them in the existing tool box below the passenger door. 4 batteries will require a different battery box to replace the tool box under the passenger door. I would love some feedback on quantity you recommend.

 

[goldneagle]

Today I replaced the two 1/4" fuel tank vent hoses with the ones i got at NAPA. Who ever installed them did not put those brass inserts inside the tubing. I installed the tubing properly. Another small project done! I also ordered another coolant bypass filter housing and filter from AMAZON. Same as the one I installed on the other M923. Seems like that is my first upgrade to the engine on all my trucks. A clean cooling system is a health cooling system!

I also ordered a 16 foot long LED light strip. I want to test it for use as lighting in the camper. It is already 12 volt to start with so no transformer needed in my application. I may install a transfer switch that can switch between battery 12 volt and SHORE A/C with 12 volt transformer. This way i can still use the same lights whether I use SHORE/Generator Power or 12 volt batteries. This is all the prefab stage for me. I want to build a very efficient but comfy camper. Wife is not an outdoor person and neither am I. We are not into roughing it. (Please don't make any comments about how you don't need a shower in your camper and you been doing it for 50 years!) This is MY camper and I want to do it my way. I ask anyone that can help me get to my goal to suggest the best method possible. I am willing to listed to any idea but I will decide whether to use it or not.

The Humvee alternator is my way of doing the electrical system to my camper build. I think it will work well with my ideas on powering the truck. I want to incorporate the SOLAR panels into the system. Maybe some Diodes on the solar panels to keep from sending alternator power to the panels. Or I can use relays that open the SOLAR circuit when the alternator is charging the batteries. I have an electrical background so wiring will not be an issue.

There are still lots of decisions to make on the camper build...

 

[Vintage iron]

your camper is looking good! I am liking the HMMWV alt! I would like to see it mounted. You are 100% correct about the coolant filter. It really is a great improvement!

 

[moving chicane]

On the batteries I am going with 6 volt wired in series parallel. It seems on other forums that they are more robust due to thicker plates.

For me I'm planning on trying to go almost exclusively with 12 volt appliances. To size the bank just add up the amperage of each individual appliance times the amount of time it will be powered per day. Now that you have the required amp hours multiply by 2 because you can only use 50% of a deep cycles rated power. That should show you how many and what size batteries you should need. Also remember that if you want to run 120 volt appliances from an inverter there is an additional 10% loss in the voltage conversion.

After that you need to figure how long you want to run without plugging in or cranking the truck if the sun doesn't come out to power the solar. Personally I want three days minimum, but with more usage that can become more difficult.

 

[goldneagle]

On the batteries I am going with 6 volt wired in series parallel. It seems on other forums that they are more robust due to thicker plates.

For me I'm planning on trying to go almost exclusively with 12 volt appliances. To size the bank just add up the amperage of each individual appliance times the amount of time it will be powered per day. Now that you have the required amp hours multiply by 2 because you can only use 50% of a deep cycles rated power. That should show you how many and what size batteries you should need. Also remember that if you want to run 120 volt appliances from an inverter there is an additional 10% loss in the voltage conversion.

After that you need to figure how long you want to run without plugging in or cranking the truck if the sun doesn't come out to power the solar. Personally I want three days minimum, but with more usage that can become more difficult.

Good info there. I am going with those LED light strips since they only pull about 24 watts of power per 16 feet. I want to test them to see how much light they put out so I can plan accordingly. If you don't mind I will keep you in mind if I need advice on the 12 volt setup.

 

[FASTNOVA]

Nice project, keep the pictures coming.

 

[goldneagle]

I got the bypass coolant filter and housing today as well as the LED light strip. I tested the light strip in my home using a 12 volt DC power supply. WOW it really gives out some light! I tried it with only a few feet of strip out of the spool and it lit up the area pretty good. So it looks like I will definitely use it to light the camper. I think LEDs are the future in lighting! Energy efficient, cheap and long lasting.

 

[RAYZER]

How about one of these type systems? Only 9000 BTU A/C and 11000 Heat. I may even find one that has 2 outputs and install one in the cab.View attachment 416325

This looks like a split unit.
One of these might work really well!

 

[zout]

As far as the deep cycle 12v battery bank your unit will have - your not planning on using your AC system with this
bank correct ! The AC unit I guess unless I missed it was going to be on the 12v side. These roof units need generator
power or shoreline power and will kill batteries in a heart beat.

 

[FatBuddhaBoo]

Looks like you are off to a great start! The LED lights are a great addition. I used them in my house for recessed lighting above my bar and they pump out tons of light!

Once I'm done with my crew cab project I have plans to build a custom box/camper on the back of her. Part of those plans is finding an RV junkyard or flat out buying an old but in decent shape RV to get all the appliances, cabinets, etc that I need from that then scrapping it. Just something you might want to consider.

 

[goldneagle]

As far as the deep cycle 12v battery bank your unit will have - your not planning on using your AC system with this
bank correct ! The AC unit I guess unless I missed it was going to be on the 12v side. These roof units need generator
power or shoreline power and will kill batteries in a heart beat.

No I never planned to put the A/C on the DC circuit. I already have a ONAN Emerald 4000 generator and a flat aluminum boat fuel tank I was thinking of using. Another generator that i own and might use is a HONDA 4000 watt inverter generator set. Both units are gasoline unit but might be able to convert to propane as another option.

 

[zout]

I figured you knew the answer but I was just asking so everyone would realize why not to..

So in your distribution panel you will have this of course on a seperate circuit tied in with the Gen and shoreline.

The Onan I am guessing is in the 1987 year range being an Emerald (use to own one) but mine was an earlier model and
today the only places you can get the parts from are expensive in the long run - so are you leaning on the newer Honda
using one of the two options of fuel sources.

Personally I am not a fan what so ever of propane in an rv except for outdoor cooking - worse case senario's I have seen
what it can do when you do not want it to happen.

 

[goldneagle]

I wish some of you experienced guys would come through with some suggestions on what to use in the build (instead of waiting for me to put in an idea and either agreeing or shooting it down) I am sure there are a lot of members that have or used campers and can point me in the right direction. I think I have contributed enough ideas in other threads for members to use (without having to reinvent the wheel) that I too can benefit from someone else's designs without having to start from scratch.

I want to build a top notch camper. I don't have unlimited funds. I do want comfort. We are not roughing it! Not my wife! Interior work is right down my alley. I was a contractor for years until my heart condition ended that career. If I can build an entire house in 2008 with congestive heart failure, I can build an RV interior. I can do all the plumbing and electrical without any issues. I just need some good ideas to go with.

 

[zout]

I do not see as much shooting down your idea as you might be thinking.

Thoughts are - you have your concept and subject it to change here - your choice then to modify it - throw it out the window or use it.

Everyone thinks different and viewpoints only from their experience - that is were we get the ideas. Who is to judge what works for you
but only you and how your going to use it. How you use it might not be the turmoil I might subject it to or any needs I have may not be your need in an MV RV.

SO - keep your ideas rolling and who actually gives a chit what anyone else thinks to sit back and nit pick it - unless of course you took
donations from someone to make their idea work and it totally sucks on how you did it !!! Otherwise - keep the faith and get er done.

Same as what I inquired about above - only asking questions - and throwing out some perspective for those that do not know - but still all your final call in your build - your truck and your $$$$$$$$mola.

Hope this helps.

 

[goldneagle]

Today I replaced one of the air brake hoses on the front driver side wheel. I noticed the outer rubber skin was pealing near the crimped fitting. I had purchased a replacement hose yesterday, but had to return it because it was not tough enough. The hoses the military are steel braided like hydraulic hoses. Had NAPA make one up for me at a cost of $41 VS $8 for the non-steel braided hose. Probably overkill, but I wanted to keep it stock.

I also measured the tool box under the passenger door and realized I can fit 4 standard car batteries inside. So I do not need to get the battery relocation kit. I will use the 6TML batteries in the M931 truck and buy new batteries that will fit the tool box. I will probably leave the NATO receptacle next to the door. If the cables are short I will just splice them inline and heat shrink tube over the splice.

 

[wascomatw74]

The shower /tub combo comes as a pan then you do a surround, toilet of your choice www.rvsurplus.net/catalog/display.php?category_id=171 On sale here http://www.jazzsales.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=166 , http://www.diyrvshop.com/Shower_and_Toilet_Deal.php . Not with any company just some links i found looking for myself doing the same sort of.Last link look interesting, opinions?

 

[goldneagle]

The shower /tub combo comes as a pan then you do a surround, toilet of your choice www.rvsurplus.net/catalog/display.php?category_id=171 On sale here http://www.jazzsales.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=166 . Not with any company just some links i found looking for myself doing the same sort of.

I like this one the best. Largest version they have listed. For $159.00 its a good price. Any recommendation on the toilet? I need one with lots of parking space! Elongated if available.
[h=2]M2853/HT530 Combo Shower Pan[/h]
This unit is perfect for small spaces.
Made of tough durable ABS plastic.


The shower pan measures 23"W x 35"L x 7.25"D.
The holding tank measures 15"W x 21"L x 6.75"D (3" Bottom Drain) 5 Gallons

 

[zout]

The full tub and showers we fabed into ours were nearly that same price - They were from a co. in Mich that
makes almost all the bathroom products. PECO RV right here in Tucker Ga ordered them up for us from their master
RV catalog at a very nice price with very little markup besides just handling fee.

The toilets - have the same output piping but a lot of differences on their quality - see if you can get to an RV
outlet to look at them before ordering anything up - just a suggestion.
As far as a holding tank - the portable ones work just as well and we have one as well - on top of having the holding tanks.

The plumbing tubing - we did not go cheap due to the fact of movement and flexability - to eliminate leakage from fittings.

 

[goldneagle]

The full tub and showers we fabed into ours were nearly that same price - They were from a co. in Mich that
makes almost all the bathroom products. PECO RV right here in Tucker Ga ordered them up for us from their master
RV catalog at a very nice price with very little markup besides just handling fee.

The toilets - have the same output piping but a lot of differences on their quality - see if you can get to an RV
outlet to look at them before ordering anything up - just a suggestion.
As far as a holding tank - the portable ones work just as well and we have one as well - on top of having the holding tanks.

The plumbing tubing - we did not go cheap due to the fact of movement and flexability - to eliminate leakage from fittings.

Ye the only problem with ordering online is not seeing the product in person to be able to judge the quality of the item. I am looking at a toilet/shower combo base but do not know how strong and durable the plastic is. I will have to find a supplier down here that I can go to and hopefully get to see some stuff in person.

I am also looking into a shower pan that is 32" wide by 48" long (not RV) and just make a hole in it for the toilet to sit on top of it. The ones i saw that are RV use are only 24" wide. That is kind of tight fit for me. This project is going to be a pain until I can size up the parts that I will include in it.