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Bought an M925A1 - dropped a valve?

castirondude

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Hi !
New member here. I've been reading the forum for a while now, as the big military trucks have always interested me, and I like the amount of real technical know-how you guys posess.
A few weeks ago I purchased an M925A1 - NHC250 (855) cummins, 5-ton, hydraulic winch, super singles. It is an '84 and was rebuilt sometime in the 90's with barely any miles on it since then. Looked great, ran great, so I decided to go for it.
However now it has been a bit of a lemon. When I bought it I went over the truck pretty carefully, checked all the fluids, including the axles etc, gauges. I got it home, test drove it about 20 miles, seemed to drive like new, with the minor exception that one of the rear brakes seems to be in need of adjustment (drum didn't get warm)

The second drive was different, I went to a friend's place about 7 miles away. After 5 miles one of the rear tires disintegrated. The tires looked like new with no weather cracking. I pulled over - noticed steam coming from under the hood. Shut down the engine - checked the gauge - HOT! OK I called my friend, he gave me a ride home and I came back with 5 gallons of antifreeze, tire changing tools. By now the engine was cool. It took all of the 5 gallons! The truck started and ran fine. It took us about an hour to change the tire, had the engine idling the whole time for compressed air. I checked the temperature regularly, did not get hot anymore.
OK after changing the tire I headed home. All seemed fine, I took it easy ~45 mph, carefully checking the gauges. After about 3 miles BANGRRRRRRRR some very harsh sounds coming from the engine, I was already looking in the mirror to see if there were rods and pistons rolling down the highway. Lots of smoke from the exhaust pipe.
I worked the throttle and the rattling was pretty consistent - so that tells me it is not the bottom end. After half a mile I had a place to stop but I that time the noise had become less. I could hear 1-2 dead cylinders though. Oil pressure & temp still good, so I drove the last 2 miles home.

The next day I looked again and found the heater core was leaking badly, but only when the engine was running. That's why I didn't catch it before. I am guessing it must have been leaking before and they just put water in the system, because I didn't smell antifreeze on the way down but I smelled it on the way back.
Thinking over the fateful events, I'm thinking that the failure is likely not related to the overheating, being that the engine ran flawless when I turned it off, and for an hour while working on the tire.
I did hear a bit of a popping noise out of the exhaust at higher RPM. I'm starting to think a valve was sticking open, or possibly the engine dropped a valve. I had a stuck valve on another engine once and after a while the valve was ground to dust and lodged in the aluminum piston.
Maybe somebody didn't assemble a valve keeper correctly, being that the engine had so few miles on it, it just now came loose.
After all I figure that they used these US based trucks to practice rebuilding, so they could do it flawless while overseas.

Well schucks....
no choice but to just deal with it.
The back cylinders are under the cab, how do you work on those?
I have been reading up on you guys' swap thread. I see a rather old looking 350 HP cummins with 10spd on Craigslist. Maybe I should see if I can pick that up for $1000 if it's any good..? But I wouldn't be surprised if that one needs work, might also have been sitting.
 

porkysplace

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Check the date on the data tag on the engine , just because the truck went through a rebuild doesn't mean they replaced the engine . Especially if it was a Red River Rebuild , if the motor ran good they just repainted them.
 

castirondude

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good point, maybe it's an injector?! If it was dumping fuel it could make the engine rattle and smoke.

I need to pick up a technical manual so I can work on it effectively. I have more experience working on diesels with the Bosch/stanadyne style fuel systems. Granted I have a dump truck with the 350 HP 855 series in it with a million miles on it, but I've never had to do anything other than oil changes!
 

eagle4g63

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No need to "pick up" a tech manual........they are on here for free.........at the top click on the Technical Manual button........they are under the 5 ton:beer:
 

castirondude

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This M925 is around 15k miles so it shouldn't fail regardless of whether it was rebuilt. I'll check the serial# in the morning.

This other engine that had the sticking valve, a Deutz V12, had been out in the weather and was seized when I got it. I got it to run and it idled great, then when I revved it, it spit out a valve. But this M925 doesn't seem to have such a tragic history, sounded nice and crisp.
 

castirondude

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No need to "pick up" a tech manual........they are on here for free.........at the top click on the Technical Manual button........they are under the 5 ton:beer:
I saw that! I'm going to check that out before ever hitting ebay! :)
I want to disable the injectors one by one to see which cylinder we're dealing with here. The only common rail engine I have worked on is a 8V92 DDEC-II ..
 

trukhead

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I was driving a 220 cummins years ago. The engine had a terrible miss all of a sudden. What we did, was while the engine was idling, grasp firmly, each fuel injector line and the one line that had the sharp thud was the injector that wasn't opening. That cylinder, turns out had a bent injector push rod. I think we bent it straight or replaced the pushrod, I don't remember. It might have been a water slug that clogged the injector. Engine ran fine after the repair. I think the 250 cummins is similar to the 220 cummins.
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
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Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
An old logger buddy of mine bought a couple of M915's with the 400 Cummins in them. Both ran good but had other issues (they had the CAT trannys in them). He had already decided to part them out because he didn't like the semi-automatic transmission. He had cranked both engines but had not driven the trucks due to the tires being FUBAR. He went out one day and found oil in the water and visa versa. He told me that Cummins engines were bad to have issues if they had sat a long time without being turned over. Something about rust forming on the piston skirt. Do you know the history of the truck and if it had been in long term storage before you got it?
 

castirondude

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I don't know the history of my truck. It has only 1000 miles orso since the rebuild 20 years ago, but I don't know if that means it was driven 1 mile a week or what.
 

castirondude

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Oil and water mixing sounds like the piston skirts.

If it only had water in the oil it could be from condensation or something being open. That deutz I have is aircooled and it also had water in the oil :)
 

castirondude

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I do think a fresh engine is a lot more sensitive about adverse conditions than a worn engine. Everything is tight so any rust from sitting will have more potential to seize something

Btw were you saying those 400's are for sale?
 

castirondude

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He sold parts off them and scrapped the blocks. He also wasted a lot of the sheet metal because he needed some quick bucks. With a little TLC both of those trucks could have been good runners. Some people's kids.:(
Darn. I have bought engines full of water and still salvage them. I don't know why people are so quick to scrap stuff
 

Scar59

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Gents,
I have a M931 sitting in Indy with coolant in the oil, low mileage and very clean. Engine starts and pressures good. Looking for ideas to fix it. What is the likelyhood of head gasket on the NHC 250, maybe cracked sleeve. I'm 100 miles from the truck and trying to line up a mech to look at it. Ideas?
Thanks
JC
 

castirondude

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Austin,TX
There are machines you can buy to pressurize the cooling system (through a special radiator cap, with a compressed air source and regulator). Then you can look with the oil pan, valve covers etc removed, where the water is coming from. Awful job :(
 

Scar59

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Bad oil cooler results in oil in coolant, not coolant in oil. (high press oil will displace lower pressurized water system), I wish it was an oil cooler (easy fix). You're problem could be a failed/clogged injector. When one goes it does make a racket. Valves normally stick or sieze right after you start an engine that has sat for a long time. If it run OK for a while I don't think its a valve.
Good luck
 

doghead

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I would test/inspect the oil cooler. I would not rule it out. Besides, it's an easy to access. After running, there is no oil pressure, but there is still coolant pressure for days.
 
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