Radio power bus

[kabar1]

just wondering what the radio power bus can be used for besides a radio?

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

Just about anything you want. They are 24v in the stock configuration (you could convert it to 12v, I think antennaclimber did a write-up on how to do that, and if I remember correctly, there was some discussion of uses for the power bar). You could add some power outlets or inverters for the back area of the truck. Stereo/HAM/CB stuff. Or a blackmarket electroshock-therapy booth...

 

[kabar1]

Just about anything you want. They are 24v in the stock configuration (you could convert it to 12v, I think antennaclimber did a write-up on how to do that, and if I remember correctly, there was some discussion of uses for the power bar). You could add some power outlets or inverters for the back area of the truck. Stereo/HAM/CB stuff. Or a blackmarket electroshock-therapy booth...

what would be the process to convert to 12 volt? I searched for a hr and couldn't find a post on any suggestions

 

[antennaclimber]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...r-power-24v-to-12v-modification&highlight=bus

 

[kabar1]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...r-power-24v-to-12v-modification&highlight=bus

I did find that thread after some digging and a poke in the right direction haha, how do you utilize the actual bus , to power outlets ? After the 12v mod

 

[antennaclimber]

I use it to provide power to radio equipment, wiring the radio equipment directly to the rear bus bar.

Each piece of equipment is individually fused for protection at the bus bar.

Eventually I plan to install a 12VDC to 120VAC inverter.

Once you have a good source of power to the rear, you can wire in most anything you want.
Karl

 

[Warthog]

Just a word of advise. If you do not have a grasp on electricity, voltage and current, it may not be a good idea to mess with the power bar/bus.

If your truck has the rear power bus it is 24v and directly connected to the batteries. No fuses, fusible links or any type of protection.

Have you ever seen a direct short with 24v? It makes quite a fireworks show. People even use it to weld stuff. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79463-Welding-with-24-volts

Not trying to be mean or anything, just trying to possibly save a life or a vehicle.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

how do you utilize the actual bus , to power outlets ? After the 12v mod

Once you have a good source of power to the rear, you can wire in most anything you want.
Karl

Assuming you understand basic electricity concepts. In this case, Karl does quite well.



But this is one of those, "If you have to ask how, maybe you shouldn't."


Of course, if one is willing to learn from the ground up, great! But please don't jump in and start wiring things blindly based only on some instructions you read here. Take some time to learn the basics, and you'll be amazed at what you can do with your rig!

Here's some help:

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=+basic++electrical++tutorial

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=+basic++12v++electrical+

 

[Keith_J]

Leave it 24 volt. You can get 24 volt input inverters, you get double the power through the stock bus. If you need 12 volt, you should add a +12 volt bus. This way you can balance between alternators since the +12 volt line can be used as the negative for the back battery/right alternator.

Since the truck's lights run off the front battery, you can run your 12 volt accessory loads off the back. I do this on my 1031. The accessory outlet, rear view camera and under dash air conditioner run off the back.

Your house is wired 120/240 in the same fashion. You have two legs of 120 volts, leg to neutral is 120 while leg to leg is 240.

 

[kabar1]

Just a word of advise. If you do not have a grasp on electricity, voltage and current, it may not be a good idea to mess with the power bar/bus.

If your truck has the rear power bus it is 24v and directly connected to the batteries. No fuses, fusible links or any type of protection.

Have you ever seen a direct short with 24v? It makes quite a fireworks show. People even use it to weld stuff. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79463-Welding-with-24-volts

Not trying to be mean or anything, just trying to possibly save a life or a vehicle.

I have a basic concept of electricity , you post things to learn

 

[antennaclimber]

Exactly why I have a fuse right next to the front battery to feed the rear bus bar.
Karl

 

[kabar1]

Any suggestions on what 24 volt inverter and I assume it would wire directly to the power bus and would provide 120 power right? What I'm trying to do is run 120 outlets out of the back I know basics in house electrical but nothing about car electric , my question is how big of a inverter can the power bus handle? All the inverters I've looked at only have one red and one black , would that even matter?

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Near everything in the automotive industry runs on 12V, only exception is oddball commercial/industrial stuff and military.

Keeping it 24V doesn't do anything practical, and in addition, would then require a converter to drop it to 12V, which are not 100% efficient.

I have yet to hear a good reason to keep it 24V, except putting the original radio gear in.


All you gotta do is move the red + wire to the front battery +

In my rig, I actually moved some things around on the engine compartment bus bar, CUT the metal plate, and actually made a 12V and a 24V section of the bus bar.

There's a secondary 12V battery isolated from the first 12V battery. The auxiliary battery powers the rear bus, allowing all the accessories to be used when the vehicle is off, without hindering the ability of the vehicle to start. In addition, the solenoid I used to isolate the auxiliary battery from the main battery system is ignition switched, so if I did have a dead battery, I could self jump strictly by turning the vehicle 'ON'.

The other issue of leaving it 24V, especially with a high current drain device such as an inverter, means that you're draining both batteries, which means that you can easily get stuck somewhere if you don't watch what you're doing, or have a malfunctioning device connected to it.

 

[hunderliggur]

Keeping 24V keeps the current (and voltage drop) lower in the wire making for better efficiency. 24V to 120VAC inverters are pretty common - from commercial trucks to small solar power systems. I just installed a 2750watt inverter tied to the rear radio shelf. I have a 100 Amp fuse at the buss bar. I use this to run a 12K BTU remote exhaust AC in the rear where the spare tire was. AC uses about 800W but the starting surge (like any motor) is higher. I was able to run my drill and my jig saw from the outlet with no problems. I DO NOT plan to run 2750 continuous, my target continuous is less than 50% = <1400Watts. My install is here http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?p=1360890#post1360890. My inverter was from donrowe.com 1 - 649.00 - PSE-24275A - Samlex 2750 Watt 24V Modified Sine Wave Inverter.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I assume it would wire directly to the power bus and would provide 120 power right?

Yep.

What I'm trying to do is run 120 outlets out of the back

To do what? What do you want to run?


The reason I'm asking is that you're working this backwards. First you need to decide what you are trying to power. You need to know the load size before you can decide on the wiring.

Why does this matter?

Because TechnoWeenie is right. Most automotive accessories are 12v, so if you want to run any of those off your bus bar, you probably want to run 12v. Otherwise you need a converter, and that's more expense and hassle.

On the other hand, if you plan to run some serious 120v loads, you might find it's better to stay with 24v, because hunderliggur is also right. 24v will carry more power through the same conductors. If you ONLY want 120v out of it, might as well stay with 24v.

But if you want to run both DC and AC, and your AC loads are moderate, 12v is probably the way to go. You can get some pretty good 12v inverters.

It all depends on what you plan to do with it.


12v vs. 24v, Ford vs. Chevy, 4 door vs. 2 door, long bed vs. short bed.... yada yada yada. I have no patience for fanboy arguments, and no respect for fanboyism.

Ask yourself what you need to get done, and then look at whatever gets that job done the best way.

All the inverters I've looked at only have one red and one black , would that even matter?

Nope. In the DC world, that's pretty much it. You have hot & ground. No neutral to confuse the issue, no phases to worry about.


By the way, whatever size inverter you think you need, buy double that size.

 

[Keith_J]

If you are wanting to power an inverter, leave it 24 volt. You can add a +12 volt tap for any smaller loads. 24 volt inverters tend to be far more durable and many have neat features like input/output monitoring.

I ran two coffee pots off mine at a recent event. Yes, with engine running.