DieselBob
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Something you need to do also is remove this old switch. The reason for the change to the air switch was to remove the old style switch which can rupture and cause a loss of brakes.
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Brake light switch
- Thread starter Lindsaym151
- Start date
Per the advice of George at White Owl, I'm in the process of re-locating the same (hydraulic) switch to the air side. He said they have experienced multiple failures with foreign-made air-side switches, and they have had better results doing it this way.
Lindsaym151
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Ok , I have tested the air pack , Plenty of air at the switch,90 lbs, Have tested for continuity At switch.
All systems check out individualy, but still not working to make brakelights come on.
I am know going to try to figure out a way to make a mechanical switch that i can mount on the brake pedal.
ANY THOUGHTS?
All systems check out individualy, but still not working to make brakelights come on.
I am know going to try to figure out a way to make a mechanical switch that i can mount on the brake pedal.
ANY THOUGHTS?
AN/ARC186
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Where have you been buying your air switches? I bought mine from Saturn Surplus and haven't had a problem.
| M35 | Switch, Press. Stop light | 11602160 | 5930-00-789-6192 | $28.50 | S3-3 |
Lindsaym151
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The last one came from Erics supply, who i have had great success with in the past.
Lindsaym151
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Just spent 5 minutes on line and figured out how im going to mount my own brakelight switch. Total cost should be less than 15.00 dollars!
Napa Part # echlin SL128 switch and 2 bolts!
Napa Part # echlin SL128 switch and 2 bolts!
steelandcanvas
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Be sure and relate the parts failure back to Erik, he is a stand-up Guy and will make it right.
welldigger
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How did you check the continuity of the switch? And are you sure that when the switch is wired in your brake lights aren't in fact staying on and simply not turning off? Cause if your lights work when you jump the wires and you have air pressure at the air pak then it must be the switch itself. That's the only thing left. You mentioned earlier both wires were hot. Care to elaborate on that a bit more? You should only have one hot wire.
Lindsaym151
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Problem solved! all i needed to do was switch places and push down on brake pedal .11 yr old daughter wasn't pushing down hard enough!
Sorry for any inconvience to any one!
Sorry for any inconvience to any one!
197thhhc
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Aw man, That was my next guess. 
Glad you got your lights working, and thanks for letting us know. Sometimes these threads just stop with no answers.
Glad you got your lights working, and thanks for letting us know. Sometimes these threads just stop with no answers.
DieselBob
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It's all good. Just glad to hear they are working.
eagle4g63
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Now that's funny right there.....I don't care who you are!!
The King Machine
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That is funny. My brake light problems were caused by the signal switch on the steering column.
hunderliggur
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How does she stop the thing then? I'm sure my daughter would love to drive mine
mistaken1
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Does anyone know the PSI that is required to operate the air stop light switch?
Eric's page indicates 5 to 8 PSI. I bought a new old stock unit but it does not appear to close at all.
My original would activate the brake lights for a second or two then they would go out. Heading out to hook up an air gauge to the stop light switch port to check for pressure and leakage.
Eric's page indicates 5 to 8 PSI. I bought a new old stock unit but it does not appear to close at all.
My original would activate the brake lights for a second or two then they would go out. Heading out to hook up an air gauge to the stop light switch port to check for pressure and leakage.
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I'd remove that oly hydraulic switch!
mistaken1
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Okay. I made up a test rig with an air tank pressure gauge and some fittings.
I tested the new switch from 20 to 90 PSI and never saw continuity between terminals. I tested the original air switch from 10 to 40 PSI and never saw continuity between the terminals. When these are in the truck pressing the brake pedal down and holding it makes the brake lights flash once at the beginning of the braking process but then they do not stay on.
Holding a jumper between the wire leads causes the brake lights to come on and stay on for as long as I hold the jumper in place.
Rearranging my test rig and connecting it to the trailer port (with the stop light switch in place) let me measure the air pressure at that port. Soldier B was able to press and hold the brakes and the test gauge jumped to 50 PSI then dropped quickly to 40 PSI then over a total of 90 seconds or so dropped to 20 PSI (it took a total of 90 seconds to go from 50 PSI to 20 PSI while holding the pedal). I think the initial pressure drop was soldier B not holding the pedal down firmly, perhaps the flip flops interfered with her ability to maintain pressure. I could hear air coming out the vent port and placing my thumb over the vent port allowed me to stop the leakdown (or at least slow it way down). The truck air pressure gauge was reading around 90 pounds during these tests.
Right now I think I have two bad switches including one I bought here that was sealed in a package (NOS). If they operate at 5 to 8 PSI then I should have plenty of pressure as measured at the trailer port to activate the switches. I had previously tested the switches in place with a plug in the trailer port just to make sure that the trailer air plumbing was not the issue.
I assume I need to rebuild the air pack to eliminate the slow leak through the vent port.
I tested the new switch from 20 to 90 PSI and never saw continuity between terminals. I tested the original air switch from 10 to 40 PSI and never saw continuity between the terminals. When these are in the truck pressing the brake pedal down and holding it makes the brake lights flash once at the beginning of the braking process but then they do not stay on.
Holding a jumper between the wire leads causes the brake lights to come on and stay on for as long as I hold the jumper in place.
Rearranging my test rig and connecting it to the trailer port (with the stop light switch in place) let me measure the air pressure at that port. Soldier B was able to press and hold the brakes and the test gauge jumped to 50 PSI then dropped quickly to 40 PSI then over a total of 90 seconds or so dropped to 20 PSI (it took a total of 90 seconds to go from 50 PSI to 20 PSI while holding the pedal). I think the initial pressure drop was soldier B not holding the pedal down firmly, perhaps the flip flops interfered with her ability to maintain pressure. I could hear air coming out the vent port and placing my thumb over the vent port allowed me to stop the leakdown (or at least slow it way down). The truck air pressure gauge was reading around 90 pounds during these tests.
Right now I think I have two bad switches including one I bought here that was sealed in a package (NOS). If they operate at 5 to 8 PSI then I should have plenty of pressure as measured at the trailer port to activate the switches. I had previously tested the switches in place with a plug in the trailer port just to make sure that the trailer air plumbing was not the issue.
I assume I need to rebuild the air pack to eliminate the slow leak through the vent port.