My first CUCV M1028A1

[chesapeake]

Have you got a meter? Check continuity on your splice. Sometimes those don't "take" properly. They are great when they are good, but when they are not good, they are real bad.

Also, clean up that ground. It's probably a bit rusted.

Reverse lights? Might be a bad reverse switch.

There should be a meter here. Will you tell me what I am looking for? Am I looking for 12v at the splice? Should I hear the clunk when I use the switch. I like the idea of using a three way better, just nervous about cutting the light blue wire to get it on there.

I will read up on about the reverse switch on here and see what I can do

thank you for the help

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

There should be a meter here. Will you tell me what I am looking for?

What would be the fun in that?

Am I looking for 12v at the splice?

I haven't done the mod, so I havne't messed with this myself, but I think you should see 12v there when the switch is not on (connected to ground). Once you close the switch, it should read zero, because it's directly connected to ground.


If you can pop the top off the splice without taking it apart, you should be able to measure what the splice is seeing. Better yet, measure it where your new wire connects to your switch. That will test continuity through the splice and all the way to the switch.

Should I hear the clunk when I use the switch.

Yep.

I like the idea of using a three way better, just nervous about cutting the light blue wire to get it on there.

I hear ya. A splice is fine, when it's done right. They are easy to mess up. I had to re-do one yesterday myself. Biggest problem is using the wrong size, or pliers that don't have parallel jaws.

I STRONGLY recommend not going cheap on connectors. 3M is more money, but worth it in my book. For splices, I only use the kind that has a double bite, rather than the cheapo single bite kind. See the pics - the blue is a single bite. I don't use them. The brown is a double bite. Both are available in just about any size you could want.

 

[chesapeake]

Marcus thank you. I am hoping to be able to check it all tomorrow and that it will be a quick fix.

Side note, I took the truck on its first real drive yesterday. I drove 100 miles round trip. I found out my speedo, jumps 5-15 mph. It only stays still for maybe 5-8 secs at a time. Also, the speedo is reading about 5mph slow running 265 75 16s

I also has a oil leak on the fron of the engine. I found a couple of drops of oil on the ground before I left on the return trip. When I got home, a few more drops fell. I can't really see where it is coming from. I think maybe where the timinmg chain cover and oil pan meet. I have no place (dads JD model G is apart in the shop) to take it apart, so I guess I get to pay someone.

 

[cpf240]

One point on the oil leak... sometimes there is no oil leak, but instead a fuel leak from the area of the IP. Fuel line, loose injector fitting, or more commonly, leaking throttle shaft seals. The fuel can then run down the front of the engine, washing old oil and grease down to drip on the ground, leading one to think the timing cover / crank seal is leaking. From the back, it comes from a weep hole in the bottom of the bell housing, which can lead one to believe the rear main is leaking.

One test is to put a rag up under the IP, drive around for a while and then see if the rag is wet with diesel.

 

[chesapeake]

When you say up under the IP, do you mean where the fuel line connects? Reach behind the breather? I know it sounds silly, but I just want to be clear!

 

[cpf240]

Under the air cleaner / intake, under the IP where the lines for the injectors are. The fuel drips down into that intake valley and then runs either forward or backward depending on how the truck is parked.

 

[chesapeake]

Perfect, I will do it tonight and drive it tomorrow and report back. Thank you for your help

 

[chesapeake]

I cleaned the underside of the truck this morning and put a clean white t shirt under the IP and went for about a 25 mile ride. The shirt was spotless and oil was still present on the bottom of the engine and crossmember again. Here are some pictures from underneath the truck when we got back.

 

[chesapeake]

I changed out the CDR valve today, just as a precaution since I don't know the last time it was changed.

 

[chesapeake]

Apparently dad and his friend got bored yesterday and took my truck and replaced the inner seals and locking hubs. They pulled the bearings, they said they looked brand new so they only replaced the seals. The driver side locking hub fell apart when they took it off. They were replaced with Milemarkers. Looks funny not being all black. Works for me though, today is all about weatherstripping.

 

[chesapeake]

I took the truck on the powerlines last night to play with the 4wd. Seems dad and his buddy did a good job with the hubs. My 4wd light hasn't worked since I got the truck. I actually saw it blink a few times last night. Hopefully it is just a bad connection that I can find.

Put all new weatherstripping on the passenger door yesterday. I got the kit from 1A Auto. LMC originally sent me one that didn't fit. The vent window seal is not the best in the world. It was easy to put on, but it leaves a little bit of a gap I can see through. I am hoping heat will make it close up (hoping and praying). I found out the hard way that using 3M spray adhesive is waaaaaayyyyy better that the 3M adhesive in the tube. After I get the driver side done I will add pictures.

Update, 3M adhesive is horrible. I am in the marine industry and I went back and replaced all adhesive with marine silicone. It's been about 2 weeks and no problems other than it looks horrible bc it came loose so many times with the 3M products

 

[chesapeake]

I finally got around diagnosing my 4wd light today. I have only seen it light up once. I started off by cleaning the connection and switch. I got nothing. I jumped the wires and the light came on. From what I have read and the TMs that means I have a bad switch. I am going to pick one up tomorrow or Thursday and replace it. I will post back with the outcome.

I also pulled the floor covering and man it is loud. I am also hoping to paint the floor, rockers and bottom of the doors with Rustoleum primer and then top it with their spray in Bedliner. I have read it is better than the undercoating. Just looking for protection. I have a little surface rust. Then when I have the money I will put new floor coving in. That is unless I go deaf first, then I will just save my money

 

[chesapeake]

I took the sway bar last night. It rides a little smoother aff road in the fields. I couldn't really tell any difference on curves in the road. No body roll. I took it off because it needed new bushings. I had read where others had taken it off with no ill effects, so I tried it. So far so good

 

[chesapeake]

Update,

Back in August, I ended up taking my truck to a mechanic because of the oil leak I mentioned on here. I couldn't use the shop and do it myself because dads tractor in in a 100 pieces. It ended up being the timimg cover. I had him go ahead and replace the fuel pump as well.

Thanksgiving morning, I replaced all 4 shocks with Monroe Gas Magnums. I would almost bet my front shocks were original. The drivers side front was blown out. Used all grade 8 hardware and the only problem was that at 07:00 it was 20 degrees outside.


Once Christmas is over, I hope to lift the front 2" and start searching for 9x16 tires again.

Hope everyone had a Happy Thanksgiving