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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Welder Sam

New member
1,430
6
0
Location
Glendale, Arizona
Still havent done much to mine


Pics uploaded all sorts of out of order
 

Attachments

Last edited:

pegasus55

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
117
-1
16
Location
Eaton, Ohio
Cut out the rusted bottom of the battery box and made a new bottom from aluminum diamond plate. Installed a third battery for the new 12V system and added a 12V alternator using TMAMERICA's brackets. Added a switched voltmeter to monitor the system voltage. Brackets and system work great. All 12V items work completely independent of the 24V system now. Replaced the J-pipe. Adjusted the parking brake.
 

jbayer

Member
675
7
18
Location
St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
1.) Finished my remote resorvoir installation.
2.) Greased/lubed everything, including trunions, and checked all fluid levels.
3.) Cleaned and rain-x'd windshields.
4.) Ran slave + cable through its own hole in the floor and added grommets to both + and - cables.
5.) Cleaned battery/cable ends and installed new Mil spec terminals with stainless steel bolts.
5.) Installed new stainless steel cable on spare tire hoist.
6.) Aired up all 11 tires. All were low
 

sgtrisk

Member
213
0
16
Location
Remington VA
Removed both seats - and bases - from the cab. Getting them ready for a new coat of paint. And getting ready for new canvas covers that my dear wife is going to make for me!

Note: Don't leave the foam cushion laying in the chair where the dog can get hold of it.
0_0
 

Welder Sam

New member
1,430
6
0
Location
Glendale, Arizona
Didnt get as much done as id like to have.. spent most of the morning double checking my measurements and adjusting. Once happy with things, i finished painting axle, marked where i wanted the bed to sit, center of the wheel well, marked the spring hanger locations, clamped the springs on, transfer punched the hole centers, removed everything, double checked measurements again, drilled pilot holes, stepped out the holes for 1/2" bolts, removed gladhands/valves, removed tail light mounts, and bolted one pack on. Ill get the 2nd pack and maybe the axle on tomorrow. Have seals and a new brake hose coming. Once i get the axle on and everything tightened down, ill lift the tail end so its just above waist high and set it on a sawhorse to flip hubs, clean/repack bearings, and install new seals, brake shoes/cylinders. May as well get all the new parts in it that i reasonably can right now.
 
Last edited:

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
1) Installed new exhaust elbow with welded fittings for future post-turbo temperature and pressure and drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for future and current pre-turbo temperature and pressure. I removed the turbo to do this because I’m not about to risk any damage to my baby. As it turns out, getting the turbo in and out is a bit of chore and there were times I questioned this logic. Either way, I got it done. The fittings for the exhaust include the VDO thermocouples with ¼ NPT fittings, ¼ male NPT to 1/8 female 304 SST adapters, Swagelok SS-200-1-2 1/8 M NPT to 1/8 tube adapter fittings, and Swagelok SS-200-P plugs for spots with nothing hooked up just now. I put anti-size on all thread joints. I tightened the tapered threads in the exhaust just snug to avoid the potential for cracking the exhaust manifold. Pics below.


130705 M35A2C Exhaust Elbow Thermocouples 2.jpg130707 M35A2C Exhaust Fittings.jpg

2) I’ve got some crud on the engine in a couple spots, the IP, frame rails, transmission, transfer case, etc. So I sprayed some GUNK and pressure washed to clean up. Eeeks! I need more GUNK and need to do it again as it was more than my leftover cans of GUNK could handle. Went to the parts store to get 2 more. I need a 45 and/or 90 degree elbow for the wand on my pressure washer to get those tough spots.


3) In interest of stopping leaks, I snugged up a few of the IP fittings.


4) I got a new air filter ordered from realcustomtrucks on eBay. They shipped it right away and had a good price considering many of the surplus places out there. My air filter is dirty, browned, and has spots where it seems to have gotten wet a bit, but I don’t know if it needs replacing. I’m leaving the old filter in for now while I noodle on this.


5) Did some quick touch-up paint. Fortunately my onhand rattle cans that match made this very short work.


6) I took a pic of a “strange drop of oil” that repeatedly appears on top of the head stud close to the back of the engine. I do not have a plausible explanation for this just now. Suggestions most appreciated. Pic attached.

130707 M35A2C Strange Drop of Oil.jpg


7) I aired up the front tires again. I’ve been concerned about cupping on the front tires and recently increased air pressure from 40psi when I got the truck to 50psi. It seemed to help with both ease of steering and cupping wear. My cupping is on the outboard side of both front tires and the extra wear is on the rear side of each NDT lug. Today I checked the shocks after driving for a few minutes and they were definitely warm at the top, so I doubt they are bad. So, I increased air pressure in the front tires to 55psi to see what effect is has.

130707 M35A2C Tire Wear Cupping.jpg


8) Fought Murphy with a vengeance. As I pulled out the drive I heard a clanging that concerned me so I immediately shut the engine off. I poked around and could not find anything out of order, so I opened the hood and restarted the engine. The belt for the compressor had a strange piece of sheet metal rubbing on it so I ran back to shut the engine back off. Sure enough, there was a bracket that broke off and fell there. WTF! And it just happens as I pull out of the drive? While I wish it never happened, the timing is good enough to thank Divine Grace. It dug a little groove in the balancer in seconds, so I’m certain it would have left me stranded if it had been allowed to chew into a hose, cut the compressor belt, etc. I do not know where this bracket came from but it seems to be a radiator mount bracket or something. Pics attached.

130707 M35A2C Bracket that fell off.jpg130707 M35A2C Wear on Balancer due to broken bracket.jpg


9) Went for a test drive. Having an EGT gage and boost gage really helps with understanding what the engine is doing. I’m monitoring pre-turbo temps. I’ve noticed that while climbing hills in 4[SUP]th[/SUP] I see up to about 850°F while limited to 2000 RPM or less while not trying to push it real hard (being patient while climbing a grade). I see temps up to 950°F in OD on the freeway. It seems like the combination of high RPM and trying to push it hard makes the EGT’s rise quickly. They cool off relatively quickly also and seem to bottom out at 400°F or so for some time while cooling down.


10) In getting back I did a quick inspection and found grease blowing out from the passenger side again. I’m not sure what to think of this happening repeatedly so will remove the axle housing vents and clean them just to be sure. Any help appreciated.

130707 M35A2C Passenger Side Grease Spew.jpg130707 M35A2C Differential Housing Vent Fitting.jpg
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
1) Installed new exhaust elbow with welded fittings for future post-turbo temperature and pressure and drilled and tapped the exhaust manifold for future and current pre-turbo temperature and pressure. I removed the turbo to do this because I’m not about to risk any damage to my baby. As it turns out, getting the turbo in and out is a bit of chore and there were times I questioned this logic. Either way, I got it done. The fittings for the exhaust include the VDO thermocouples with ¼ NPT fittings, ¼ male NPT to 1/8 female 304 SST adapters, Swagelok SS-200-1-2 1/8 M NPT to 1/8 tube adapter fittings, and Swagelok SS-200-P plugs for spots with nothing hooked up just now. I put anti-size on all thread joints. I tightened the tapered threads in the exhaust just snug to avoid the potential for cracking the exhaust manifold. Pics below.


View attachment 438973View attachment 438974

2) I’ve got some crud on the engine in a couple spots, the IP, frame rails, transmission, transfer case, etc. So I sprayed some GUNK and pressure washed to clean up. Eeeks! I need more GUNK and need to do it again as it was more than my leftover cans of GUNK could handle. Went to the parts store to get 2 more. I need a 45 and/or 90 degree elbow for the wand on my pressure washer to get those tough spots.


3) In interest of stopping leaks, I snugged up a few of the IP fittings.


4) I got a new air filter ordered from realcustomtrucks on eBay. They shipped it right away and had a good price considering many of the surplus places out there. My air filter is dirty, browned, and has spots where it seems to have gotten wet a bit, but I don’t know if it needs replacing. I’m leaving the old filter in for now while I noodle on this.


5) Did some quick touch-up paint. Fortunately my onhand rattle cans that match made this very short work.


6) I took a pic of a “strange drop of oil” that repeatedly appears on top of the head stud close to the back of the engine. I do not have a plausible explanation for this just now. Suggestions most appreciated. Pic attached.

View attachment 438975


7) I aired up the front tires again. I’ve been concerned about cupping on the front tires and recently increased air pressure from 40psi when I got the truck to 50psi. It seemed to help with both ease of steering and cupping wear. My cupping is on the outboard side of both front tires and the extra wear is on the rear side of each NDT lug. Today I checked the shocks after driving for a few minutes and they were definitely warm at the top, so I doubt they are bad. So, I increased air pressure in the front tires to 55psi to see what effect is has.

View attachment 438976


8) Fought Murphy with a vengeance. As I pulled out the drive I heard a clanging that concerned me so I immediately shut the engine off. I poked around and could not find anything out of order, so I opened the hood and restarted the engine. The belt for the compressor had a strange piece of sheet metal rubbing on it so I ran back to shut the engine back off. Sure enough, there was a bracket that broke off and fell there. WTF! And it just happens as I pull out of the drive? While I wish it never happened, the timing is good enough to thank Divine Grace. It dug a little groove in the balancer in seconds, so I’m certain it would have left me stranded if it had been allowed to chew into a hose, cut the compressor belt, etc. I do not know where this bracket came from but it seems to be a radiator mount bracket or something. Pics attached.

View attachment 438977View attachment 438978


9) Went for a test drive. Having an EGT gage and boost gage really helps with understanding what the engine is doing. I’m monitoring pre-turbo temps. I’ve noticed that while climbing hills in 4[SUP]th[/SUP] I see up to about 850°F while limited to 2000 RPM or less while not trying to push it real hard (being patient while climbing a grade). I see temps up to 950°F in OD on the freeway. It seems like the combination of high RPM and trying to push it hard makes the EGT’s rise quickly. They cool off relatively quickly also and seem to bottom out at 400°F or so for some time while cooling down.


10) In getting back I did a quick inspection and found grease blowing out from the passenger side again. I’m not sure what to think of this happening repeatedly so will remove the axle housing vents and clean them just to be sure. Any help appreciated.

View attachment 438972View attachment 438979
Unfortunately, I don't have an answer to any of your questions except the last. I would guess the reason grease is blowing out of the passenger side boot is the inner axle seal is bad. My truck did the same thing. The grease mixes with gear oil and oozes out of the zipper. Pm me if your interested in upgraded seals. I don't sell them. I just know the source.
 

SteveKuhn

New member
1,227
4
0
Location
Hasbrouck Heights NJ
That picture of grease coming out of the boot and onto the tire is real familiar. Could also be a punctured boot. Try putting on a rubber glove and go around the creases very carefully with an index finger. Don't be surprised to find a hole or two.

Steve
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,256
3,354
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
6) I took a pic of a “strange drop of oil” that repeatedly appears on top of the head stud close to the back of the engine. I do not have a plausible explanation for this just now. Suggestions most appreciated.
Funny, that. Any oil or oil film on the inside of your hood? The fan can blow oil along the hood all the way back, where it drips down and makes you search for a leak that is not there. Can drive a man nuts. Ask me how I know.
 

pegasus55

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
117
-1
16
Location
Eaton, Ohio
Removed the driver's seat and the passenger bench. Installed a couple of air ride seats from a donor semi tractor. They look good, work good, and I now have a space in between them to fab up a console. IMG_0032.jpg
 

maxspeed3

Member
64
0
6
Location
Burnsville, Minnesota
Still painting and sanding. Swapped my d turbo for a c turbo as well. She is coming along very nicely. Going to pick up new wood for the troop seats tomorrow or Wednesday! Also fixed my brake light issue. They were not turning on when I hit the pedal. Problem solved! It was one of the connectors on the air pack that came disconnected. So my guess is my truck has the newer style electric switch for the brakes. (Correct me if I'm wrong).... 2 wires into the front of the air pack. The passenger side one was rattled loose was my guess. Anyway they work now!
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
Still painting and sanding. Swapped my d turbo for a c turbo as well. She is coming along very nicely. Going to pick up new wood for the troop seats tomorrow or Wednesday! Also fixed my brake light issue. They were not turning on when I hit the pedal. Problem solved! It was one of the connectors on the air pack that came disconnected. So my guess is my truck has the newer style electric switch for the brakes. (Correct me if I'm wrong).... 2 wires into the front of the air pack. The passenger side one was rattled loose was my guess. Anyway they work now!
What style airpak do you have? I have the short airpak and the air switch is tee'd into the service glad hand airline. If you post a picture it will be easy to identify what you have.
 

Heath_h49008

New member
1,557
102
0
Location
Kalamazoo/Mich
20130706_200316.jpg

I started the major paint stripping process. First pass with pressure washer, then needle scaler on anything loose, followed by grinder and polycarbide wheels on the big flat areas.

I have the fender, engine side cover passenger door, and a chunk of the hood down to bare steel and phosphated. More spots are also partially removed and phosphated/primed to prevent flash rust. Work will continue Wed. (weather permitting)

After the major areas are stripped, the nooks and crannies will be sandblasted.
 

RobM36A2

Member
302
9
18
Location
The Netherlands
We finally finished putting the bows and cover on.
Washed the M36, put merdc camo on en loaded up some stuff for the trip to the UK.

On the way home, the generator started to overcharge, so now resolving this minor issue by checking belts, grounds and cables.
 

docpadds

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
107
2
18
Location
Ashville, OH
Had to take the whole generator out of the truck, sent it off to be looked at. Doesnt run up to speed, apparently a governor issue and carb filter issue, which is going to be $900 worth of work. Thanks Cummins/Onan :)

Truck is just about ready for the Cops and Kids event this weekend, got the candy dispensers full (explosives containers) and lots for them to play with from geiger counters to packs they can try on etc..
 

flatdog555

New member
17
0
1
Location
West Linn, Oregon
Put in a Semi air-ride seat on the passenger side. Painted the base OD to match, cutting up some duffel bags and following the seat pattern to make seat covers. Also took out the park brake cable which was completely frozen, sandblasted and cleaned the outside with break-free, got it moving again, then sprayed with a choke and emergency brake cable product from Napa, packed it in grease and put new heat-shrink tubing over the whole thing. Moves as easy as the day it was new, and probably packed better than new. Considering it was probably the original from 1965, I consider it a win.
 

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
Nice work! I'm especially glad you got the parking brake stuck cable issue sorted out.

Put in a Semi air-ride seat on the passenger side. Painted the base OD to match, cutting up some duffel bags and following the seat pattern to make seat covers. Also took out the park brake cable which was completely frozen, sandblasted and cleaned the outside with break-free, got it moving again, then sprayed with a choke and emergency brake cable product from Napa, packed it in grease and put new heat-shrink tubing over the whole thing. Moves as easy as the day it was new, and probably packed better than new. Considering it was probably the original from 1965, I consider it a win.
 

flatdog555

New member
17
0
1
Location
West Linn, Oregon
Thanks Brian. I'll post pictures when I get a chance. It was amazing to take this totally rusted E-brake "spine" and using some penetrating oil and flexing it, getting it to start to move again. I thought I was going to be buying one off of ebay or one of the surplus dealers, but when I was done, the cable moves freely, the rust is gone, and I think it'll be good for a number of years. I also adjusted the slop in the parking brake shoes, they're on their last twist of the adjustment nut, so it's time to look for a new pair of shoes. I can still park it on the lawn above my house without it rolling, but would like a lot more meat on the shoe to feel comfortable. Total time from start to finish was less than an hour. I'll post detailed pictures of the procedure when I get a chance, so that others may benefit.
flatdog555 (ed)
 
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