• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MEP-004A - Field won't flash

kwest

Member
66
0
6
Location
Camp Verde Arizona
Hey Gentlemen: I am kinda new to this forum and I have read posts dating back to 2009 trying to learn everything I can about my MEP-004A. The problem is I can't get it to flash the field to get voltage on the Hertz and the volt meter. I have held the stop-run-start switch for 30 seconds without any luck. I have ran the engine at full throtle since I bought it just to keep it from siezing up. It will flash occasionally and make the meters measure volts and 60 cycles on the hertz. Up until just the other day it ran without the re-connection board because it was missing when I got it. It is running @ 1866 RPM and the alternator is now putting out about 28v's. Any help will be welcome for a retired Lineman who for 35yrs said one wire hook up two wire screw up....I hope that I have covered all the info that is needed for a response . I thank you in advance for your input:-D
 
Last edited by a moderator:

kwest

Member
66
0
6
Location
Camp Verde Arizona
I got the gen set from a mine in Jerome Az. about 20 miles from here. I knew nothing about the generator and when I learned more about it that is when I knew that yu won't get volts on L-1 L-2 or L3. Did I damage the Gen running it without it? I purchased a board from Delks and got it yesterday and installed it thinking that would help. I will go out and remove some covers and look at the wires at the gen head to see if I can find some damage. I may need to hold the start run stop switch longer to flash the field. Thank both of you for your help and thank everyone on this forum for the info that I have learned about my genset
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Were the lead wires just floating around on top of each other or were they all separated from each other? Did you see any evidence of arcing or burns on the lead ends or on the chassis ground? Hopefully not... :)

Regarding the installation of the board, we assume you have done a wire-by-wire trace with wire number verification for where each wire is connected on the board--is this correct?

Not clear what you meant by: "......that is when I knew that yu won't get volts on L-1 L-2 or L3...." Can you elaborate on that?

Kevin
 

kwest

Member
66
0
6
Location
Camp Verde Arizona
1800 Diesel: I paid close attention to SewerZuk's mod for 120 208 mod to 120 240 rewire and yes all of my leads are underneath the reconnect board and so is the neuteral tie bar, unlike the one shown in the viedo. I took each terminal off and checked the numbers of the wires one at a time to be sure I didn't cross any of them, they all had a coresponding number to the terminal that they belonged to x8 to T8 x6 to T6. I used a brass wire brush on all of them and one at a time reconnected them to the term that they came off of.
As far as the statement "thats when I knew that you can't get volts ... " William Delks told me that info and I think that is correct. The leads were attached when I got the genset just the board was missing.
 

s011883

Member
39
2
6
Location
Hartford MI
I have to the same problem with my MEP005a 30 kw. It will not flash itself, but if I connect a 9 volt battery just for second, across the two small wires (that are on the small terminal box that goes to the generator head), it will start producing power. I sent my voltage regulator box off and had someone try it on their unit. It checked out fine, so I can cross that off the list. I'm now going to test my wiring harness. If anyone else has had this problem and found a solution, please post.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Hey I am back on I think I found the problem.... bad speed switch thanks all
Did you end up changing out the switch? I've run into the same problem with an MEP-4. Starts up fine, but starter continues to spin while holding start switch engaged for flashing. Switch on this unit appears brand new, but of interest is that the clamp-down bolt was backed out halfway and the wiring harness was disconnected from the switch. (This is the same unit that is "missing" one of the amphenol connector "sleeves" on the wiring harness for the speed switch. Posted a thread on the other forum while this one was down.)

Can you elaborate a little about installing a replacement switch? I assume it doesn't have to be "timed" or anything like that? Just remove the existing and install the new one? I see it drives off the camshaft so I expect it's similar to installing a gas engine distributor. Also, where did you get the switch from?

Thanks,

Kevin
 

kwest

Member
66
0
6
Location
Camp Verde Arizona
1800Diesel:
Yes I changed it out and it fixed my problem. The Speed Switch controls almost everything. I got it from Mr. Delk ... What a Great Guy to do business with... The switches come pre set for all MEP 004's all that iis needed is to install them.
I just got a M35A3 and I can't focus...
You Are Welcome:
Ken
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
1800Diesel:
Yes I changed it out and it fixed my problem. The Speed Switch controls almost everything. I got it from Mr. Delk ... What a Great Guy to do business with... The switches come pre set for all MEP 004's all that iis needed is to install them.
I just got a M35A3 and I can't focus...
You Are Welcome:
Ken
Ken,

Went through the TM checks for the speed switch (static continuity or open circuit testing) and the open & closed circuits all checked out correctly. From here I'll need to attempt the checks while running but won't get my tachometer in until next week. Tonight I started doing a visual check on the connectors and found some green corrosion on a couple sleeves. Used some contact cleaner and letting things dry before I reconnect. Also need to determine continuity on all wires at the speed switch pin-to-pin (once I figure out where the wires end up). So for now the speed switch I have appears good, subject to further testing.

I'm ruling out the cranking relay (K3) since the unit will start with no problem. Anyone have any other ideas? I'll continue to check out wiring and connectors in the meantime.

Also, if I do end up having to remove the speed switch, why does the TM say to use a 1 1/8" wrench? Does it not just pull out once the retainer bracket is unbolted? Do you still have to unscrew it once the retainer bolt & clamp are removed?

Thanks,

Kevin
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
I have to the same problem with my MEP005a 30 kw. It will not flash itself, but if I connect a 9 volt battery just for second, across the two small wires (that are on the small terminal box that goes to the generator head), it will start producing power. I sent my voltage regulator box off and had someone try it on their unit. It checked out fine, so I can cross that off the list. I'm now going to test my wiring harness. If anyone else has had this problem and found a solution, please post.
Did you test the pins on the speed switch per TM?

Kevin
 

kwest

Member
66
0
6
Location
Camp Verde Arizona
Hey Kevin: No I did't check the pins I did something worse... I in my unending curiosity (spell) opened it up and little cams fell out and I was in the barn. I couldn't find them and if I did I wouldn't know which holes they came from. I had to buy another one from Mr. Delk
As far as the removal I just lossened the collar and pulled it out. That worked fine for me ...and it was after that it went all downhill. I should have stopped. It makes me think of a Quote....." A man who can laugh at himself will never cease to be amused"... My Father once told me " Son if you are so dead set on being Stupid you better get tough".
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Hey Kevin: No I did't check the pins I did something worse... I in my unending curiosity (spell) opened it up and little cams fell out and I was in the barn. I couldn't find them and if I did I wouldn't know which holes they came from. I had to buy another one from Mr. Delk
As far as the removal I just lossened the collar and pulled it out. That worked fine for me ...and it was after that it went all downhill. I should have stopped. It makes me think of a Quote....." A man who can laugh at himself will never cease to be amused"... My Father once told me " Son if you are so dead set on being Stupid you better get tough".
You mean you disassembled the speed switch itself? Hadn't thought about doing that since I believe the one I have is good. Will try to check the K5 relay tonight. Was pretty busy until dark so it may have to wait 'til Tuesday.... WRT to the switch removal, I assume the TM mention of needing an 1 1/8" is incorrect? Still curious about that reference...?

Thanks,

Kevin
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks