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Buying M1028, 50k or 150k miles?

MarcusOReallyus

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I read the that only the 1028a1s had a 205. And check out the pic showing the rear springs. You can see the overload spring atop the leaves.

Yep. That's what I have.

I'm with the others on towing. Not really a good idea. OTOH, if you have the chance to drive it around for an hour before you buy, and you have an experienced mechanic along, AND a chase vehicle, maybe...
 

NMerenda

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The seller seems pretty lenient so I'm sure I will have some time to get behind the wheel. My grandfather will be accompanying me and he has 23 years military experience, and 20 years as an electrical engineer. He also completely rebuilt the diesel in his boat a couple years ago so I am confident in his expertise. I will let you guys know how it goes...even if this GA truck doesn't pan out, since I'm down south, I can always look at some other CUCVs while I'm there.
 

swiss

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If you are coming from NY and willing to travel to get the right vehicle I would wait. I have seen trucks in much better shape sell for the same amount of money. If you could find a vehicle in the northeast for 5k that would be a much better deal. You will have 5k in this truck so fast and still not have 1/2 the truck that I bet you can find looking around.
 

NMerenda

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The reason I don't mind traveling to GA is I'm getting a free ride down. I constantly look for better deals all over the internet, especially closer to where I live. I will take my time before considering a purchase like this. I don't mind doing some work, but saving a couple grand by getting a basket case is not what I'm looking for. I've got my fingers crossed, but I won't really know what the situation will throw at me until I see it in person.
 

rtk

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Take your time , there are a lot of MV's out there . One of the club members just picked up a nice 1028 in PA , low miles , nice truck , zero rust . If you want I can get the details for you , just shoot me a PM , bob k
 

BKubu

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Check out the picture of the torn floor mat. Do you see the dirt/mud that appears to be moist? I bet there is rust in the floor. Get underneath and inspect the underside of the floor board. Also, see if you can pry up the mat where it is loose. Condensation forms underneath the floor mat and rusts the floor from the inside. Personally, I think $3K plus the shipping cost is too much for that truck.
 

NMerenda

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I'm starting to think that as well. If he won't budge on the price then it'll be a no go for me. If after checking out in person, and it is deemed a worthy purchase, my plan is to remove all the vinyl flooring, sand it down, and have a Perma-Tech liner sprayed on.
 

rickf

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Ga. to NY. in a truck with 4:56 gears! That is gonna be a looooong loud ride. The glow plugs are probably blown out and if they are swelled and break off in the head then the head has to come off. I don't think you want to be doing that on the road. If the glow plugs are not working then how has he been starting it? ether? You do not want that engine. It is either has a broken crank or will have, right behind #2 journal. Typical Chevy floors will be non existant under the rubber mats.
 

NMerenda

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Haha I've driven a '79 Bronco from PA with 4.88s and a 460 with cutouts. Talk about a long loud ride with a C6. Was picking it up for a buddy. Anyway, the story behind this truck is that the seller purchased it from the previous owner (whom I believe was the person who purchased it from gov auction) with glow plugs working, but they stopped functioning shortly after. He had plans to restore it but is working on several other projects at the time being. He has a M1008 as his dd, so this just sits near his barn. He did say that he has started it a couple times with ether to move it around his property. If I were to even consider purchasing this truck, let alone drive it back to NY, the glow plugs will be replaced before even leaving the area. I even plan to arrive in GA with a set of plugs and a tool box, whether I purchase the truck or not just as a precautionary measure.
 
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Madison, WI
Like NDT said, it looks like it's seen some civilian farm/logging use or something. But CUCV's can look that weathered and beat up with only 10,000mi. And with how inaccurate and prone to failing the speedometer/odometers are in C/K trucks, this truck could literally have any amount of mileage.

It looks pretty rough, but doesn't look like there is that much rust, which is always a plus.
 
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BKubu

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I recommend that you purchase non-swelling glow plugs. Also, borrow or buy the tool that is used to pull swollen glow plugs.
 

NMerenda

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Rochester, NY
That was my main concern. I live in a salt belt state and I HATE rust with a passion. Whatever m1028 i pick up needs to be rust free because I want to start with a fresh body/frame. It would be nice to drive as is but I'm not too sure about this one. If I could work him down on the price I think it would be worth my time and money to check this one out and make a more informed decision.
 

markg

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Location
hutto,tx
Yea lol the 1028a1s start life as 1031s and have a bed added at some point, according to the wiki.
the vin can help you tell a 1028. if it has a 208 tcase and the 4th digit is an H its a 1028. 1008 have 2900 lbs payload and a G in the 4th digit of the vin. if you can see the data plate you'll see the 3600 lbs payload. dont trust the drivers door. many have been changed. look for the extra leaf.
i think that truck has 50k hard miles. with 4.56 gears its hard to rack up the miles. if you want to know the internal health of the engine, after you get it running for a good 10 minutes or more, pull the oil fill cap and see how much crankcase pressure comes up. (blowby). a small amout is ok, if its puffing good run away!. also during warmup see what the radiator is doing with the cap off, look for compression. (bubbles) was it full? is the overflow got fluid in it? heads crack !! idiot lights come on when its too late!!! transmission fluid? alternators charging? gage working? good luck!
 

NMerenda

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Rochester, NY
Thanks a bunch. That's all really helpful info. The more and more you guys share with me the new thankful I am. I'm pretty good with Chevy trucks but diesels are a bit new to me. Every bit of info you guys provide prevents me from going in blind. If the truck gets deemed a worthy purchase I was planning on changing all fluids before hitting the road.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Virginia
Anyway, the story behind this truck is that the seller purchased it from the previous owner (whom I believe was the person who purchased it from gov auction) with glow plugs working, but they stopped functioning shortly after.

If they all just stopped working suddenly, it's more likely the relay or the controller card that is the problem, not the plugs themselves.

Still, it's probably a good idea to change them out if you don't know their history.
 

markg

Member
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Location
hutto,tx
He said he checked the relay and tested the card from another truck and still a no go. I'm still going to replace the plugs anyway.
you know how to check individual glow plugs? pull the wire off the plug, take a test light and put the clip end on the positive battery post, touch the tip of each plug and if it lights, you might have a good plug. if you can find 4 or 5 good plugs , jump the relay on the firewall for 5 seconds. truck might just start. i would not pull any plugs on sight, do it when you get home. after you get it started , check the other things i mentioned. good luck!! take a look at the truck i just bought from the texas forest service. thanks. mark
 
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