Another MEP-003a AutoStart with PLC

[SteveH]

Thanks to all the advice posted here (especially sewerzuk), got my MEP-003a autostarting yesterday (worked first time!!)

I'm using a Unitronics Vision230 PLC, and interposing relays (the relays aren't really needed, as the PLC has onboard relays, but I used them for additional protection, and the LEDs give an indication of the output and input status. The Vision230 is overkill for this application, but I got a great price on ebay. The code will run on their smaller units. I also hope to be able to monitor volts/frequency/load using Analog Inputs and the ethernet port (with a remote web based app), but that's not done yet.

At this point everything is laid out on a piece of plywood for test, but the plan is to put it in a small NEMA enclosure with a UPS. Start will occur on closed contacts from a standard domestic auto transfer switch.

I will be posting more info (especially connection diagrams) once the project is completed, but for now just wanted to share a video of it's second start..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVqjAAfHoS8

Again - Thanks to everyone for their help so far with this!

-Steve

 

[Jimc]

pretty cool!

 

[sewerzuk]

Nice job! That PLC looks to be significantly more robust that the one that I used in my trailer. Looking forward to future updates!

 

[steelandcanvas]

Sweeet! Looking forward to the rest of the story.

 

[storeman]

Well done. I might even attempt it someday. Thanks.
Jerry

 

[lavarok]

subscribed@!

 

[SteveH]

Apologies for the delay in updating the thread. Progress has been slow as I've been travelling with work, and was way-laid by a bad back.

I went over the MEP, replacing/cleaning anything that looked suspect. I managed to find a new ASK (thanks to another forum member for letting me know where one was available and picking it up). I've fitted that, with a lot of extra sound proofing and finally got the PLC mounted on a small aluminum frame that fits using existing bolt holes. It is connected into the original control panel using a short connecting cable with mil-spec Amphenol connectors at each end.

Inside the cabinet is a collection of Ebay finds - the Unitronics PLC; set of Phoenix relays and a PULS 24v PSU and UPS (which runs off a small 12v battery with a DC-DC converter). There's also a Paladin frequency to current transducer (so the PLC can monitor frequency and shutdown if things get out of hand - not connected that up yet.

I've also mounted a marine 24v battery maintainer on the ASK (that's the grey box). That will be normally power on all the time, but when the generator starts the PLC will disconnect it (as I didn't want it and the MEP generator both charging the main batteries concurrently). One more thing to do is to add a small terminal block for the contacts from the auto transfer switch that signal when to start stop (currently I'm just doing this from the buttons on the front panel).

Currently it's all working, but (like most things) it's never finished. I want to have a remote interface (the PLC has an Ethernet interface), and I also have a couple of current transducers to monitor the load and display/alarm.

Here's some photos....



-Steve

 

[Jimc]

man thats awesome. keep us posted

 

[storeman]

How are you dealing with exhaust?
Jerry

 

[SteveH]

How are you dealing with exhaust?
Jerry

I've got a pair of the stainless laundry pipes. I plan to have the generator on a pad, in a small shed. These will go out through the shed, and I'll probably have a pair of the 'flipper' covers on the top (like a semi - not sure what they're called).

 

[quickfarms]

Nice

 

[1800 Diesel]

Great job on the layout & installation! I have a friend who wants an auto-start setup for his MEP3, but I have to wonder if the entire setup will cost more than the generator. Did you add up the total cost yet for this one? Since you got some good deals for the various components I was hoping the price tag is reasonable....

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[SteveH]

Great job on the layout & installation! I have a friend who wants an auto-start setup for his MEP3, but I have to wonder if the entire setup will cost more than the generator. Did you add up the total cost yet for this one? Since you got some good deals for the various components I was hoping the price tag is reasonable....

Thanks,

Kevin

I've not added the parts up, but if I'd bought them all new they would be very expensive (probably a couple of $k). I just watched for deals.....I probably have around $700 in the autostart system (I wish I hadn't just worked that out!)

However, it could definitely be done for far less $

1. Unitronics make a far smaller PLC that could do the job for about $150 (ebay price). It would run pretty much the same code as this (uses the same programming tools), and I'm happy to share that.
2. You could probably get away without the separate UPS, power supply and battery (by running the PLC off the batteries on the genset); also you could probably do without the battery maintainer for the main genset batteries (as long as you manually charged them occasionally). You'd have to check this, as it is possible the voltage drop when starting might trip out the PLC (I really lucked out - I got the UPS for about $70, they are normally around $300). Not having a separate power system or battery charger would be a BIG saving - over $1k if all bought new.
3. The military connectors are expensive - plastic or Chinese knock off's are a lot less expensive. But I liked them
4. You definitely don't need the frequency transducer or current transducers. That's just because I wanted to do it!

The only thing I wish I'd spent more on is the cabinet; the catches on it are very flimsy plastic; but good NEMA cabinets are expensive.

Also: there are also available dedicated diesel controllers. These are a lot less flexible, but I think you can pick them up for ~$300 on ebay. I have no idea how good these are though:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Diesel-Gene...862?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415d663df6

-Steve

 

[1800 Diesel]

Thanks Steve for all the info. When we get ready to do the installation I'll be bugging you & sewerzuk too! (Though I think he's staying off the grid lately--haven't seen much from him lately....)

As an afterthought I wanted to ask if you noticed much movement of the enclosure while running the genset? I can't tell for sure in the photos but it looks like it might be cantilever mounted at one end, but if you have isolation mounts then it should be good-to-go. Not criticizing the installation but didn't want all the electronics stuff to get rattled too much!

Thanks again for sharing the job--great work!

Kevin

 

[SteveH]

Thanks Steve for all the info. When we get ready to do the installation I'll be bugging you & sewerzuk too! (Though I think he's staying off the grid lately--haven't seen much from him lately....)

As an afterthought I wanted to ask if you noticed much movement of the enclosure while running the genset? I can't tell for sure in the photos but it looks like it might be cantilever mounted at one end, but if you have isolation mounts then it should be good-to-go. Not criticizing the installation but didn't want all the electronics stuff to get rattled too much!

I ran it for about 1/2 an hour last night, and there didn't seem to be much vibration, though I had been concerned about that as well. It's mounted at the bottom (to the control box), and then to a vertical angle that extends out from the top of the ASK. At the moment I don't have anti-vibration mounts, though I would add them if needed. Also, as I plan to put it in a shed, I might just move the PLC to the wall (I made the cables long enough for that)

Definitely happy to advise you if you're considering doing something similar. Really it's pretty easy - I just emulated what the main switch does on the control panel, and then read back oil pressure and output to make sure it's all running. Although the house transfer switch isn't yet in, it's already nice having a push button start!

-Steve

 

[storeman]

I've got a pair of the stainless laundry pipes. I plan to have the generator on a pad, in a small shed. These will go out through the shed, and I'll probably have a pair of the 'flipper' covers on the top (like a semi - not sure what they're called).

I also have some stainless flex pipes from the laundry unit I bought to get the 003a. They are very nice, I'll use one for my 002a and 2 for the 003a. One left which I will likely keep. Can't believe how expensive ss flex is.

Jerry

 

[johnray13]

I would love to add a PLC just because it would be a cool project. But there is a certain allure to the foreplay of the manual method that I really enjoy: Give her a prime until she starts slow ticking, a nice long preheat and finally, blowing some smoke out of my pipe. It's kinda weird, I know...

 

[SteveH]

I would love to add a PLC just because it would be a cool project. But there is a certain allure to the foreplay of the manual method that I really enjoy: Give her a prime until she starts slow ticking, a nice long preheat and finally, blowing some smoke out of my pipe. It's kinda weird, I know...

Hey, I still get all of this with the auto start. But I can stand back and watch it happen!

One unexpected advantage - yesterday I was trouble shooting the unit, and instead of having someone else come turn the switches while I tried to work out what was going on, the PLC just did it - made a two person job into one.... (the same person who failed to tighten one of the connections when he put it all back together )

 

[95blklsc]

looking good!

 

[1800 Diesel]

I ran it for about 1/2 an hour last night, and there didn't seem to be much vibration, though I had been concerned about that as well. It's mounted at the bottom (to the control box), and then to a vertical angle that extends out from the top of the ASK. At the moment I don't have anti-vibration mounts, though I would add them if needed. Also, as I plan to put it in a shed, I might just move the PLC to the wall (I made the cables long enough for that)

Definitely happy to advise you if you're considering doing something similar. Really it's pretty easy - I just emulated what the main switch does on the control panel, and then read back oil pressure and output to make sure it's all running. Although the house transfer switch isn't yet in, it's already nice having a push button start!

-Steve

Thanks Steve--hadn't noticed that you had replied to this one....will check in if we decide to go with a PLC setup...my guess is the fellow will decide he can live without it once he learns the total cost...