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My 1009 fuse block is melting-

cjkoschnick

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Richmond, Indiana
I had light problems and checked the fuse and saw that the 30 amp fuse was crooked because of the fuse block melting and not holding the female prongs level. Since replacing the fuse I now do not have any glow plug operation. I was not sure why the block would melt before the fuse would blow. My question is- where do I start? Is my melting fuse block a symptom of some bad relays, wiring, total electrical meltdown or what?
Need a little direction-
Thanks
 

SmokeyDod

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Easley, SC
I had same problem on a M1009. Problem is created when the prongs on your fuses or the metel recievers in fuse block kindof oxidized over years maybe due to humdity or where the truck has been sitting for years. What happens is that the prongs & recivers don't get tight and grounded to one another good and the actually start "arcing" this is what builds up the heat which melts the plastic and still not "blow" or burn out the fuse wire.
I removed all my fuses and just replaced all of them and ALSO used a can of spray contact cleaner & just to be sure I used a fingernail file and filed to clean up better the connections in the fuse box panel. It had me scratching my head till I finally figure out what was going on. Hope this helps.
 

dunedigger

Member
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Location
Hart, MI
I had a similar problem start to happen on my 1009 but was only melting one fuse for the heater that shared the alternator exciter circuit. I had a bad alt that was not putting out enough voltage. I think the low voltage cause a high current draw and was melting it. Once I replaced the bad alt it quite melting the fuses.
 

cjkoschnick

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Thanks-

I will try to clean things up and check both alternators. Does anyone know where I can get a new fuse block to start fresh?

Thanks so much for the help!
 

acesneights1

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CT
Is it my imagination, or do CUCV's have more than their fair share of electrical problems?
That is really a loaded question because although the 24v split system is a bit more trouble the problems being described in this thread are more enviromental. Same thing will happen to any vehichle under the same condtions. I have the same problems with my Ford Fuel trucks. Winter road salt gets in the truck and oxidises the fuses. Poor connnection =resistance=heat.
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
Every truck I looked at when trying to buy a civy 3/4 ton play truck had wire nuts, 2-3 miles of extra wire just laying around, and some bare wires just hangin' out......these trucks probably have less problems because the wiring scares away most of the hacks that butcher up trucks in the first place:-D btw, I was looking in the 1500-2500 price range!
 

qualityhardware

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North Carolina
Sorry to bring back this necropost, but I am having the same issue. The previous owner of my M1009 dig a booger fix on the 30amp fuse for the headlights. I was checking the fuses on my truck because my turn signals and flashers stopped working. Headlights were still GTG, but when I looked at my fuse block, I saw the left side of the headlight fuse receptacle was melted. Upon pulling the fuse, I saw that the previous owner jammed a small strip of metal into the side to complete the circuit, and it must have gotten really hot and melted the block.

I am trying to do a repair on it, as having to rewire a whole new fuse panel is going to be a mother.

Were you able to fix yours and what did you do?

Thanks.
 

JUNKYARDJOHN

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somerset ky
MAN... Reading This thread is kinda like watching those poor little japaneeze fellers, with all thier nucluer power-plant-reactors melting.... BUMMER. John
 

qualityhardware

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North Carolina
Well, got a temporary fix. Yanked the headlight wire from the back of the fuse block and cleaned all of the fouling and melted plastic off the terminal. Gave all terminals in the block a quick blast of air, cleaner and air and replaced all fuses. I now have lights, signals and flashers again. Ordered some new terminals and will replace the fouled one, which should alleviate the arcing and melting.
 

Buzz

Member
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Location
Hamilton, Ohio
all this talk of fuses melting reminded me of a TSB that GM put out awhile back about using Harbor Freight or chinese fuses. They would not blow and could cause damage. the number of the tsb was #07-08-45-002

the tsb said
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring system of the vehicles they were customer installed in. Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted directly across the battery terminals.

might be a good thing to check or just keep in mind, I know alot of guys love harbor freight but there is a reason their stuff is cheap.

the rest of the tsb said:
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
Important: All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
 

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DrJekl

Member
268
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18
Location
Clarksville, TN
I just had a 20 amp fuse melt. It was from an import kit. The fuse is still good but the yellow plastic turned into a black blob. Bought the fuse kit on post at the auto shop.
 

mikev

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Culleoka, TN
I just had a 20 amp fuse melt. It was from an import kit. The fuse is still good but the yellow plastic turned into a black blob. Bought the fuse kit on post at the auto shop.
Yeah, don't you love it that chinese crap is sold "on post"...

Just like ACU "digital" handkerchiefs made in china that are sold at the PX and Clothing Sales here at Camp Shelby, MS...

And the berets...

:-(
 

85CUCVtom

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Location
Lakewood, Ohio
So I really hate to dig up an old thread but posting this question here seemed appropriate.

So I got a fuse box and harness off of a friends part truck he was scrapping. Its in really nice shape and I'm trying to clean all the connectors and the fuse box. Is there any way to remove the brass fuse holders without breaking anything? I feel like if I can get the terminals out from the backside of the fusebox it would make this job a little easier.

Or is there some sort of acid based contact cleaner the will brighten up the contacts and remove the tarnish and corrosion?
 
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11Echo

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CT W. R.
So I really hate to dig up an old thread but posting this question here seemed appropriate.

So I got a fuse box and harness off of a friends part truck he was scrapping. Its in really nice shape and I'm trying to clean all the connectors and the fuse box. Is there any way to remove the brass fuse holders without breaking anything? I feel like if I can get the terminals out from the backside of the fusebox it would make this job a little easier.

Or is there some sort of acid based contact cleaner the will brighten up the contacts and remove the tarnish and corrosion?
With the proper tool,(terminal pick), proper technique, and patience, every terminal in the fuseblock can be removed. Taking care to put the terminal's lock back in service, then they can be re-installed. Patience is the key item here.
 

85CUCVtom

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Location
Lakewood, Ohio
Terminal pick? I've never heard of one. I have a pick set and a few dental picks, one of those should work.

Is there anywhere that shows how this is done maybe with some pictures?

What are your thoughts on using a product like CLR?
 

Warthog

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OKC, OK
Want to know why the 30amp headlight fuse likes to melt? Read the Headlight sticky:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?87544-CUCV-Headlight-Circuit

Use some Electrical Contact Cleaner. I use the CRC brand.

https://www.google.com/search?q=elc...eaner&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=shop

Amazing what you can find with Google.

www.autoshop101.com/forms/h5.pdf

I have never used the www.autoshop101.com website before, but it looks like they cover ALOT of items that would help anybody learn to troubleshoot their MV, be it a CUCV or a M939

 
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