Thanks for all the input guys! So besides the parts I listed, I should snag some schedule 40 1" PVC and put an end cap on a piece to make a seal setting tool, or 3"? I couldn't make sense of the above posts.
I am unsure if I have all the right tools, chances are I don't and will have to pick them up. I am having a hard time finding a thread about doing this and which tools are necessary. If someone could help me out by either posting a thread or telling me that'd be greatly appreciated!
Things I do know I need besides my original post:
Grey RTV
Jack
Jack stands
Seal setter tool thing (PVC but idk the size)
Diff fluid
Grease, about a pound (recommendations?)
I used ABS drain pipe, 3" diameter, for my seal driver/setter. I installed a slip coupler on the seal end for a stronger sealing surface, and a plug-cap on the other end to hammer against. Just make it a few inches longer than the axle spindle so it slips over to seat the inner seal.
I use Chevron Dura-Lith NLGI-2 wheel bearing grease that meets the specs of GAA...Why? Because I scored a 35-gallon drum of the stuff NEW from a storage locker auction. Other recommendations made in this thread and others by members would also work...newer wheel-bearing grease for heavy-duty trucks with drum brakes is probably superior to the old GAA anyway.
Get the 8-sided wheel nut socket to make your life easier, and a good 3/4"-drive ratchet (you can get a passable one from Harbor Freight). A couple of members sell this socket, or you can get it at your local NAPA/CarQuest/auto parts warehouse. Most likely you'll see gouges on your wheel nuts from some imbecile who used a hammer & chisel to remove/install the old ones, instead of using the socket. I usually try to replace these with new nuts, but in the event I can't, I always make sure to grind off any sharp edges/protrusions and file them flat/smooth afterwards.
While you're at it, you'll need a standard 3/4", 1/2"-drive socket for the axle shaft bolts (tight fit at shoulder, I can't get impact sockets to fit, only standard sockets...but you shouldn't need an impact gun to get these off either). A good scraper or sharpened chisel will help get the old axle shaft gasket remains off of the hub & axle shaft seat (usually there's a good slathering of RTV left on these). A good-quality wire brush will help get the remnants off, as well as any rust and set up a nice sealing surface when it's all done and ready to be put back together.
I use the blue shop towel paper towels to remove all the old grease & gunk, then dispose of them at my local county Hazmat acceptance center (YMMV, your decision). I use LOTS of Purple Power degreaser (Walmart, NAPA, CarQuest, AutoZone, O'Reilleys, et al carry it) to clean as much of the leftover residue off of everything, and definitely do as the other members suggested: inspect the brake shoes and make sure that the linings aren't lifting off the shoe. If they look fine, and have grease/oil/whatever on them, use brake cleaner and an old toothbrush or cleaning brush to remove the gunk and dry them out. Once you reinstall everything and use the brakes a few times, the heat from this should burn off any remaining residue after a good brake cleaner soaking (as
JeepSinker recommended).
And most importantly: please do as the other members all recommended, at least do the inspection on the brake wheel cylinders!! Sometimes, even after full rebuilds of brake systems on several other Deuces, I've had to remove the wheel cylinders and re-hone them (and install new rubber parts) to get them to work properly and stop leaking...even with a full flushing of the brake hard lines and replacement with braided stainless steel hoses, as well as NEW DOT-5 BFS, sometimes I get some residual gunk depositing in the bottom of the wheel cylinders that cause leakage. Happily though, after re-honing the cylinders to remove the gunk, and installing new internal parts, I haven't had any problems like this since, so it must be something residual that the flush didn't reach or the BFS is collecting it & depositing it in the wheel cylinders.
