Blythewoodjoe
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I have looked for hours at wiring diagrams and threads. I searched until I am sleepy. So despite the fear that comes from posting a question that some one may have answered in a thread years ago using improper English (or proper English, I am from South Carolina), or words or phrases I have not thought of, I ask a question.
I have looked over the wiring diagram for a M35 and there are 4 wires going to the ignition switch. Two wires are labeled "11" and appear to tie together somewhere before they reach the switch. Not sure why they do this but they appear to bring 24 volt power to the switch. This is my first assumption and opportunity for someone to correct me.
One wire labeled "27" appear to feed voltage to most of the stuff needed to run the truck. The starter button gets power from this wire (second chance to correct me). Last wire is labeled "1". You know, the loneliest number. This sends power to the alternator regulator, again I assume the power flows from the switch to the regulator.
Based on the above assumptions, I assume when you switch the switch on you close two independent circuits. One circuit provides power from one of the "11" wires to the "1" for the regulator. The other provides power from the other "11" to the "27" for everything else.
Based on the above assumptions (you will get tired of that phase soon) can you take a traditional 4 wire keyed switch and connect both "11"s to the battery terminal, the "1" to the acc. terminal and the "27" to the run or ignition terminal? This would keep the two circuits separate. You could also take the wire from the start button and attach it to the start terminal.
Based on the above assumptions I can think of a couple of problems. First off, if you use the start terminal on the keyed switch you loose power to the "acc." terminal. This might effect the alternator. Unlikely but possible. Second, you would be able to power up the alternator regulator with out the truck showing anything "on". This would only be a problem if some dummy switched it to acc. and left the truck.
You could not use the acc. post for the "27" wire because when you hit the starter, you would loose power and the starter would disengage. At least most of the aftermarket switches I have used kill acc. power during start mode. Last option would be to tie "27" and "1" together on the ignition terminal. Any thought's?
I have looked over the wiring diagram for a M35 and there are 4 wires going to the ignition switch. Two wires are labeled "11" and appear to tie together somewhere before they reach the switch. Not sure why they do this but they appear to bring 24 volt power to the switch. This is my first assumption and opportunity for someone to correct me.
One wire labeled "27" appear to feed voltage to most of the stuff needed to run the truck. The starter button gets power from this wire (second chance to correct me). Last wire is labeled "1". You know, the loneliest number. This sends power to the alternator regulator, again I assume the power flows from the switch to the regulator.
Based on the above assumptions, I assume when you switch the switch on you close two independent circuits. One circuit provides power from one of the "11" wires to the "1" for the regulator. The other provides power from the other "11" to the "27" for everything else.
Based on the above assumptions (you will get tired of that phase soon) can you take a traditional 4 wire keyed switch and connect both "11"s to the battery terminal, the "1" to the acc. terminal and the "27" to the run or ignition terminal? This would keep the two circuits separate. You could also take the wire from the start button and attach it to the start terminal.
Based on the above assumptions I can think of a couple of problems. First off, if you use the start terminal on the keyed switch you loose power to the "acc." terminal. This might effect the alternator. Unlikely but possible. Second, you would be able to power up the alternator regulator with out the truck showing anything "on". This would only be a problem if some dummy switched it to acc. and left the truck.
You could not use the acc. post for the "27" wire because when you hit the starter, you would loose power and the starter would disengage. At least most of the aftermarket switches I have used kill acc. power during start mode. Last option would be to tie "27" and "1" together on the ignition terminal. Any thought's?