Controlling Hi/Low Range and Front Axle Lock From a Shift Knob

[m-35tom]

You will destroy the shift fork doing that. You need to open your transfer case up and put new synchronizers in.

actually it is the support bearing for the top shaft that is bad, not the syncro, but yes it is a bad idea to hold in engaged with the lever.

 

[welldigger]

actually it is the support bearing for the top shaft that is bad, not the syncro, but yes it is a bad idea to hold in engaged with the lever.

Ah thank you for the correction.

 

[m-35tom]

don't forget you are going to need an interlock so it cannot be shifted unless the clutch is in. a spring is a really bad idea as it will cause excessive wear on the fork, you need a double acting cylinder, and it will need to have exactly the right stroke, and then what will you do for neutral?

 

[rustystud]

don't forget you are going to need an interlock so it cannot be shifted unless the clutch is in. a spring is a really bad idea as it will cause excessive wear on the fork, you need a double acting cylinder, and it will need to have exactly the right stroke, and then what will you do for neutral?

I don't think you'll need the interlock. I have never seen one on any highway rig. In fact most splitters you preselect before shifting. I agree about the spring and the neutral position might cause some difficulty.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Nah you guys are over thinking it..... the spring is only going to pull back till the cylinder stops. It won't be pulling on the lever forcing or holding it in high range. The cylinder will be mounted so the lever is where it is supposed to be. Also as I wrote before I'm not putting in a neutral position. It's to complicated and if I need towed I can pull one cotter pin disconnect the cylinder and put it into neutral. Also I am not putting a safety switch in..... you guys are over complicating it i think.

 

[rustystud]

Nah you guys are over thinking it..... the spring is only going to pull back till the cylinder stops. It won't be pulling on the lever forcing or holding it in high range. The cylinder will be mounted so the lever is where it is supposed to be. Also as I wrote before I'm not putting in a neutral position. It's to complicated and if I need towed I can pull one cotter pin disconnect the cylinder and put it into neutral. Also I am not putting a safety switch in..... you guys are over complicating it i think.

I agree you don't need the safety switch, like I said all the highway riggs I've seen preselsect the range splitter. The problem I see with the spring is in keeping the piston in the proper position. If your using air to apply the lever to the correct place you'll need a regulator that is HIGHLY accurate (and expensive !). Most air regulators I work with are not near that precise. A dual apply cylinder would work best I think, especially if your not going to use neutral. Then full air on High, or reverse, full air on Low. I would also remove the stock lever and just have a stub shaft with the hole for the clevis.

 

[jwaller]

I would think this might work on a brand new tcase with brand new syncros. If you don't have a new truck I feel it beneficial to "feel" the transfer case as I shift it. Sometimes it doesn't want to just jump from hi to low and need to be finessed.
An actuator won't do that.
i also don't believe an actuator would do a great job of hitting neutral. I do use this quite often and unless it's set very well it might not work so good.

all my humble opinions.

 

[rustystud]

I would think this might work on a brand new tcase with brand new syncros. If you don't have a new truck I feel it beneficial to "feel" the transfer case as I shift it. Sometimes it doesn't want to just jump from hi to low and need to be finessed.
An actuator won't do that.
i also don't believe an actuator would do a great job of hitting neutral. I do use this quite often and unless it's set very well it might not work so good.

all my humble opinions.

He doesn't want to use neutral.

 

[shenkmen]

you guys are over complicating it i think.

Umm... we're the ones without an airshift thing-a-ma-bobber.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Yes I have no need for neutral unless being towed.

Also I see no need for a regulator. The cylinder is rated for way more them 120 psi and if the throw is measured correctly then it should work perfectly without binding the transfer case. This is also why I want to use the lever now. My first idea was to push and pull on the stub shaft but I think using the lever will give more play and adjustment. Also my transfer case shifts quite well. I can shift it with one finger.

As far as any kind of regulator I think the only think I might need is a flow control.

 

[rustystud]

If you keep the stock lever, you might get hit when it goes into high ! OUCH !

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Lol no ill cut it off like a stub shaft

 

[Floridianson]

[QUOTE=HainebdWith air shift transmissions, they use very short throws and must be in neutral before shift happens. Not doing so will wear syncros out quickly.
My 10 speed fuller had no syncros to wear out. Had a clutch brake to get it in first and I could preslect hi or low long before I shift. Not that I did but it would not shift till I like you said pulled it out of gear then the shift from hi or low would happen. Don't know if this has changed but a Timmed transmission has no syncros.
Yea I will have to agree with jwaller sometimes they need a little love to go in.
It's good your thinking though. As for the post of haveing to look down to find the transfer case lever do you look down to find your Johnson when you releive yourself or do you know where it is already.

 

[rustystud]

When you get my age you need all the help you can get ! " All hands on Deck !!! "

 

[GregSLSTJ]

Hello, just thought I would try to add to this thread as I have added a air Hi/Low range set up and it has worked great. It cost me less that $150. It is a old school range selector and the slave valve. I used a 2 way air cylinder to just actuate the transfer case lever. Cut supply pressure down to 50 psi with a simple pressure regulator. If you have any questions please ask I can probably supply part numbers as well.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

So on the one side of the dual acting cylinder you have a constant pressure of 50 psi and when switched to the other side you have full pressure to over come the 50 psi?

Also I'm curious to see your exhaust brake setup too

 

[GregSLSTJ]

Yes, the slave valve switches the supply air pressure based on the pilot pressure from the range switch. In high range the pressure goes to one end of the cylinder and in low range it switches to the other end of the cylinder, the exhaust pressure goes out of the range switch.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Hmmmmmm I wonder if I can use my pilot valves to do that.... basically you have a single throw dual pole air relay.

 

[rustystud]

Hello, just thought I would try to add to this thread as I have added a air Hi/Low range set up and it has worked great. It cost me less that $150. It is a old school range selector and the slave valve. I used a 2 way air cylinder to just actuate the transfer case lever. Cut supply pressure down to 50 psi with a simple pressure regulator. If you have any questions please ask I can probably supply part numbers as well.




View attachment 487968View attachment 487967View attachment 487969View attachment 487970
View attachment 487971

Greg, I'm on this like "white on rice ! " Please list all the part numbers you used . Thanks, rustystud. Also more detailed pictures would be great !

 

[GregSLSTJ]

Yeah, I don't see why not. Their is more that one way to do this. Go for it. You can bench test it with a 5 gallon portable air tank. That's how I figured out my set up before I mounted anything.