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LT. Dan M35a2 Modification Thread

bonedoc

New member
502
1
0
Location
Bangor, PA
That looks awesome!! Did you make that panel? There was guy on the deuce facebook page that had one like that and I had told him he should make them and sell them. I think they would sell especially easily being most people add more gauges. Nice job though, looks awesome.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Such a nice day I figured I'd get a jump on the work for saturday. Got the front end and radiator off. The coolant was pretty soupy towards the bottom it definitely needs to be flushed.

Take a look at these pictures of the radiator and tell me what you guys think...... the lower steel piece is kinda rotted and pulled off the radiator itself. And the front of the head is like weeping oil. It's not fresh from what it looks like. The rear of the back head is doing it too. Something to worry about?
 

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M35A2TN

New member
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Location
Jackson, TN
Dang Dan! You have been busy, I love this thread by the way, keep up the hard work! And on the oil situation, it should be fine, they are all gonna slobber a little, now if you could watch it come out, that would be a problem. And on the rust spot, it needs to be fixed but a piece of angle iron and be welded back in to place and fab'd up to work like normal, but it is your old girl, it's up to you.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Yes i have wait till you guys see all the goodies going on Saturday plus new engine paint.

That's a good idea with angle iron... i might cut it all off and weld a new piece in there.

I hate freakin oil leaks. The injector pump cover where the hydraulic pump would go is leaking and I'm going to fix that. I also have to see if the injection pump itself is leaking or if the front cover leak is blowing back over everything.

It is so nice all the room i have to work now lol..... the next step is to get the fenders off, then flush the engine coolant and then steam clean the engine.
 

M35A2TN

New member
51
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0
Location
Jackson, TN
Yeah LT! We all hate them, and hate the normal stuff that we wish wasn't normal haha. And if I had to guess it isn't the pump leaking, probably blowing back. And it I were you I would have reached over in there and steam cleaned the engine BEFORE starting on all this!
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Truck is apart and ready for paint tomorrow once it dries. Everything looks really good once I got it clean. Paint and grease came right off..... probably hasn't been this clean is 40 yrs lol. I also reverse flushed the engine and got it to flow good clean water after a few minutes. Nothing really but brown dirty water came out if the engine but the radiator was a different story. .... Some big nasty chunks came out of that. .. I hope it didn't open any leaks up.

As far as the cab rot..... driver side will be a piece of cake but the passenger side could get interesting.... I'll find out tomorrow when I cut the bad out.
 

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M35A2TN

New member
51
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0
Location
Jackson, TN
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397333810.733100.jpg Dan! You work on your gal and I'm over here working on mine! But the age difference is a little big haha. Good work bud! Keep up the hard work!
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
456
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Dan, I don't know how, but I forgot that I had reinstalled my doors for my trip up to RRAD to pick up Fuzzytoaster's stuff. No way I'm taking those heavy things back off just for a couple of pictures. When you do get yours off, make sure to have a second person there to assist you, and wear steel toed boots so you don't loose a toe. They are very heavy and awkward to handle on your own.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Lol no problem I'll be removing mine tomorrow cause I starter to mess with mine trying to get the pins out and it isn't going to happen on the truck..... the hinges started to move. So I will be pulling my doors tomorrow to drill the hinge pins out......
 

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Lol no problem I'll be removing mine tomorrow cause I starter to mess with mine trying to get the pins out and it isn't going to happen on the truck..... the hinges started to move. So I will be pulling my doors tomorrow to drill the hinge pins out......
Dan, when you get the hinges off, soak them down,put them in a vise and take a solid punch and bfh to them, those pins can be stubborn.
Once out, drill to 5/16 and use a stainless bolt.
Worked well for me!
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
456
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
I've been replacing every rusty body related fastener that I remove with a stainless counterpart. No reason to replace rusty bolts with bolts that are just going to rust up again. I've even replaced my door moulding screws and nuts with stainless, and working on replacing all my hardtop bolts now.
 
862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Just finished cutting my hoses for tomorrow. It's 1 am and man am I beat plus I have a pretty bad sun burn which sucks even more!!!

All new rubber hoses...... Used 2" for the coolant hoses and 1 3/4" for the water manifold. Napa hose for the lower radiator. 5/8" for the heater core/coolant filter lines. 1 1/4" for the slobber tube which I am going to make a box to vent into then be able to drain. The top of the box will have hose to pipe then vent up and out between the Snorkel and muffler. 1" heater hose for the valve cover breather and air filter housing to air compressor. 1" hydraulic suction hose for the turbo drain back. It is rated for 250 psi and the same specs temp wise as the nsn calls for. Nos intake hoses for the air filter to turbo and my turbo to intake elbow hose is all but brand new once I washed the oil off of it but if bad I have enough 2" radiator hose I can use a piece of that. Goodyear hose is rated for 150 psi so it should work perfect for that.

The only thing not pictured is the lower rad hose and the 1" hose for the air compressor. I have enough hose left for extras and might make two or three coolant hose kits and post for sale on here.
 

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862
6
18
Location
Reading Pa
Ok so the engine is painted. The underneath I'll have to get better once I start doing the axles. It turned out really really good. I'm extremely happy with it. It was just cheap bbq paint from Walmart in a quart that is sprayed with my harbor freight hvlp gun. The only thing it isn't flat black it's a semi flat but I like it.

Now I'm going to have to make a air compressor wrench. I thought with this much room i could use a pipe wrench and a adjustable.... I was wrong. It didn't even budge. Oh well I still have to put most of the hoses back on anyway so.

The 12v Alternator looks beautiful on the engine.... Just like it belongs there. I got a 1/4" turnbuckle to push the alternator up but I'm not sure if it's strong enough so I'll have to go back to tsc and see if I can't get a 5/16" or a 3/8". Other then that it fit perfect. I also got a 46.5" fan belt for the original belt which pulled the 24v alternator up off the primary fuel filter for better access to the bolt for filter changes.

Also you can see on the drivers side of the engine the 1" hose I ran from the air compressor filter over to engine air filter housing for a start to my fording kit.
 

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