LT. Dan M35a2 Modification Thread

[DIndFab]

That black looks great. Should be easier to keep clean than flat as well?

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

True I didn't think about that. Flat you see everything including finger prints. Maybe I'll do the entire truck semi gloss

 

[PaFarmer]

Looks good Dan

 

[bonedoc]

Wow Dan!! You have been busy. Looks great. I like the semi flat black as well. I was busy yesterday putting my bumpers and rock rails back on my jeep, had sent them out to be repowder coated and lacrosse with my sons. Then spent today prepping a floor in the house for tile. Loving this weather, hopefully it is here to stay.

 

[Jeepsinker]

How bad was the cab rust man?
edit: oh btw, yes it is looking very good. Any reason you decided to go with black on the motor instead of green? I prefer a green motor, but that's just me.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Thanks guys.....

Number one I hate green lol..... and I want my truck different. Plus I was walking through walmart and saw the quart of paint on clearance for $8..... couldn't resist lol.....

And to be honest I never got to the rot today. I was up till 3 am trying to figure out how in the **** that guy did his shifter with dual acting cylinder so I never got out of bed till around 10 and then today was the last regular season game for the flyers so I came in early to watch that too. Oh well long weekend coming up.... I have off Friday for the holiday so I'll be wrapping up the engine and starting on the rot hopefully and cutting the back of the cab off.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

So today I did some research at work on the valves we use for lift axles and different operations on the trailer I'm going to get the valve pictured below. It's a 4 port 2 position valve. A supply goes in port 1 and supplies port 2 while port 4 exhausts out port 5. When the pilot is pressurized port 1 supplies port 4 and port 2 is exhausted to port 3. This is exactly what I need it to do. The A5000 eaton valve won't work for me cause my shifter is doing two different valves but needs a supply all the time to both functions. The side switch loses supply from the slave valve when the range switch is put into high range to prevent the deep reduction from activating in high range because if it did I would assume the transmission would detonate lol..... it must be a safety feature. Anyway I'm good and I can get the valve at cost for $40 brand new.

Also I forgot to post pictures..... I was so excited with the paint job I didn't show you guys what I got in the mail!!!! A full A3 wiper setup with new wiper blades!!!! Can't wait to get them on the truck...... next I'll have to get a windshield washer setup.... I wonder if I could use the flame heater pump for that ...... Hmmmmmm

 

[ivbeenrokd]

The painted engine bay looks nice. Are you going that way with the whole truck?

A3 wipers are a great upgrade also!

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

No the rest of the truck will be a dark Grey using behr house paint but idk if I will use flat or a semi gloss yet.

 

[welldigger]

The painted engine bay looks nice. Are you going that way with the whole truck?

A3 wipers are a great upgrade also!

The air wipers don't even compare to electric wipers. I love mine.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

I paid close to 3 Benjamins for them but I think they will be so worth it..... and I hope they hold their value or add it to the truck.

 

[welldigger]

That's not a terrible price. If you ever get caught in a rain storm you will quickly see that they are worth every penny. They are also not failure prone like the air motors.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

So I got my air compressor wrench in the mail (didn't have time to make one) and went to take on the pulley so I can put the new belt on...... didn't budge even with a 4 foot breaker bar. I had to use a puller to take the pulley off the compressor then put it in a vice heat up the split portion of the outer pulley then still use a 4 foot breaker bar to get it to start and spin. It didn't take long but was a huge PIA to pull the pulley then take it to work and use the torch.

Engine is going back together tomorrow so hopefully I can have it running soon. Then commence to fix the rot on the cab.

 

[ivbeenrokd]

If there's anything I've learned doing mine it's plan for surprises and delays.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

thermostat problems

Ok so I started another thread because I was afraid some might not look in my mod thread.

I got my truck well engine all buttoned back up today and cooling system filled. I have about 7 1/2 gallons of coolant (50/50 mix) in the truck. I got it fired up and ran it for about an hour just idling. The truck ran around 200° and stayed there. What I don't understand is the radiator is cold and so is the lower hose. The system is bleed pretty good I do believe. I don't have the coolant filter on yet the hose is just looped from top to bottom and valves are shut.... but that is how I did burped the system.

So is my thermostat not opening? My truck has never ran this hot before. The intake is pretty hot I can hold my hand on it but it's hot. The top of the radiator is warm but that's it the rest of the radiator is cold well 50° cause that is what the ambient air temperature is.

Please help I'm pulling my hair out here......

 

[BBQROD]

Let the heater hose circulate water to. the thermostat needs water flowing behind it to help it open. If that doesn't help the thermostat is probably stuck or just bad.

 

[doghead]

Air.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

It was fine before the flush..... what about truck that don't have heaters?

Thermostat looked good and worked freely when I had it apart.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Air? But it's pretty much bled..... Idk how I could get it bled anymore..... would driving it help any?

 

[BBQROD]

Yeah doghead is right it sounds like a big air bubble trapt in the water pump.