• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Deuce Fan Belt replacement

rsites

New member
19
0
0
Location
Virginia M35A2, 1970
One of the two fan belts on my 1970 M35A2, the two redundant ones on the left looking at the engine from the front snapped. I have 2 new belts to replace both, but am having trouble moving the "alternator" on its slide rail to allow for the new belts to go on. I have the nut loose that's on the slide rail, but the two at the bottom I can't seem to get to. I can get to the one in the rear, but it has a nut on it that I've never seen before. Looks like possibly a locking nut of sorts, so I'm afraid to just get in there and turn it. The front bolt at the bottom I can't get a wrench to? Any suggestions as to the best means of replacing these belts? The single belt that is to the right of the engine when looking from the front seems to be fine.
 

Woodsplinter

Member
723
6
18
Location
Phoenix/AZ
My deuce has only one bolt that the alternator pivots on. (Besides the slide rail) I just loosened it with a 9/16" box end wrench, pushed the alternator towards the engine to loosen the belts. No need to loosen that back bolt.

I know it's covered in the TM's but I don't remember which one.
 

Flyingvan911

Well-known member
4,709
158
63
Location
Kansas City, MO
Get under the bumper and reach through under the radiator. It's a pain but I did it last weekend to tighten my belts. Be patient and you can do it with two combo wrenches.
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,130
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
One of the two fan belts on my 1970 M35A2, the two redundant ones on the left looking at the engine from the front snapped. I have 2 new belts to replace both, but am having trouble moving the "alternator" on its slide rail to allow for the new belts to go on. I have the nut loose that's on the slide rail, but the two at the bottom I can't seem to get to. I can get to the one in the rear, but it has a nut on it that I've never seen before. Looks like possibly a locking nut of sorts, so I'm afraid to just get in there and turn it. The front bolt at the bottom I can't get a wrench to? Any suggestions as to the best means of replacing these belts? The single belt that is to the right of the engine when looking from the front seems to be fine.
Several points-

The weird nut you're referring to is wreckerman8.................. err................ wait, we're talking about alternators. :)

The weird nut you're referring to is a castle nut. It is slotted so you can put a cotter pin in it.

You typically do not need to loosen the bottom fasteners: you can use a prybar and force the alternator to pivot up until it stops, which is usually enough that you can slide the belts off the pulley, then slide the new ones on.

Then pry the alternator back down, tighten it back up and roll.

If the bottom fasteners are so tight that you can't pivot the alternator, you can access the fasteners from inside the lower bracket. Sit under the front end and reach up from underneath and I typically use a stubby wrench to help fit into the right areas.
 

m16ty

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,580
217
63
Location
Dickson,TN
Yes, the two bolts on the bottom are a pain to get to. I leave the bottom bolts snug but not so tight you can't move the alternator after loosening the top bolt. They are lock nuts so they won't work loose if not torqued down.
 

rsites

New member
19
0
0
Location
Virginia M35A2, 1970
Thank you

Yes, the two bolts on the bottom are a pain to get to. I leave the bottom bolts snug but not so tight you can't move the alternator after loosening the top bolt. They are lock nuts so they won't work loose if not torqued down.
Thanks for all the suggestions and idea's. I'll have to give it a try again this weekend.
 

rsites

New member
19
0
0
Location
Virginia M35A2, 1970
good scoop

I was afraid of using a pry bar to try it, but now that you've said that works well will give it a try. Thanks.

Several points-

The weird nut you're referring to is wreckerman8.................. err................ wait, we're talking about alternators. :)

The weird nut you're referring to is a castle nut. It is slotted so you can put a cotter pin in it.

You typically do not need to loosen the bottom fasteners: you can use a prybar and force the alternator to pivot up until it stops, which is usually enough that you can slide the belts off the pulley, then slide the new ones on.

Then pry the alternator back down, tighten it back up and roll.

If the bottom fasteners are so tight that you can't pivot the alternator, you can access the fasteners from inside the lower bracket. Sit under the front end and reach up from underneath and I typically use a stubby wrench to help fit into the right areas.
 

swbradley1

Modertator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
14,251
1,706
113
Location
Dayton, OH
Sit under the front end and reach up from underneath and I typically use a stubby wrench to help fit into the right areas.

Sitting? Maybe if you are a "little person". ;-)

If I lay on my back it is just out of reach to use both hands so I have to roll up and use one hand. It's doable but it is certainly a pain in the arse to get to. The one I just did two weeks ago was a TM America bracket but it had new grade 8 bolts so it was a little easier.

Perseverance is what it takes or a ten foot pry bar.....
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,177
113
Location
NY
I have broken an alternator "ear" by forcing the alternator to move without loosening the lower bolts.

They are not all that hard to get at if you drop the side flap, and lay on the fender.
 

EWhytsell

Member
177
1
18
Location
Fort Mill, SC
If your like me and just don't have long enough arms or something to get those two lower bolts, I found it much faster to just remove the three bolts holding the bracket to engine block, then loosen the bolts once the alternator is on the ground. I spent at least an hour the first time I messed with the alternator trying to get that lower front bolt/nut. Second time took me a couple minutes because I knew how to attack the problem.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks