Schutt Industries 1CSL0-SLC-T-1000 Self Loading Trailer

[aheilmann68]

Trailer is half decked with 2x6 Oak. Still debating on whether or not to do the entire deck as it worked out well open in the middle. Tie down points are going to be welded it, we just wrapped cross members and the trailer tie down locations. The deuce weighs 11,500lbs and the winch pulled it up well, had full control and the remote function is great. Trailer sways a bit with the drainage basins but the air ride does a pretty good job of keeping it from going all over. Overall this trailer is great, we had the deuce on the trailer at the Sussex MTA show and set up a display that I will try to locate pictures for, since I was running around all weekend.

I have a Perkin IOM manual for the 400 series motors that I will have to put up later

As for the protective covers, they were removed and the rusty screws were no match for an air chisel. I am not sure if the sensors even work because I tested to see it the bed will try to raise even with the latches on and it does try to. I don't think the guides are going to be carried on the trailer as I do not see the trailers owner moving conex boxes, just equipment and vehicles.

 

[Artisan]

Awsome Job! yes, no need for the guides now and if you used
2x6 the wood is now higher than the metal runners and it will not
work as intended anyways. It will probably work but your going to
be dragging the can on wood, the GUIDES rollers will quickly
make an indentation on the wood I bet, works for you SWEET!

 

[Artisan]

Turns out the Mfg of these starters is right around the corner
from me. They returned an email telling me they sell direct and
they rebuild as well, of which I am sure I will do the later.

I can tell these guys will be good to deal w/. I have seen
others speak of them in a good light on the web and a
quick reply via email means they care.

They sent me a picture of a new IMI-203-002 (24V) as well.



Here is their contact info;

Matthew Wight
IMI Performance Products, Inc.
13432 Lambert Rd.
Whittier, CA 90605
(562) 907-9400

 

[Artisan]

The engine model type 'GH' is a 403D-07 engine I am told by PERKINs.

 

[Artisan]

If you have an M916 I started a Lunette Ring Extension thread HERE .

And I edited my post above changing the model number for the starter
as in further discussions w/ HI Torque folks they realized these were
a special deal they made for Perkins and gave me the right number.
The wiring diagram says 24V too.

 

[Artisan]

STARTER;

The starter was modified by SWP. (The Co that put together the Engine assembly)
There is a little indentation they cut into the flange for clearance.
That was not done at HI TORQUE Starters. So if you order
a NEW starter you will be filing.

New is almost $300.00 , you can send
your starter in to get rebuilt for about 1/2 of that! I had mine rebuilt
and I got to see inside. It looks like someone pressure washed this, maybe
over and over the water just poole din the bottom, and it never got started.
Do not try to salvage these starters, they are toast. It is an instant rebuild.

FUEL SELINOID;

I got my starter and new batteries in and no fire. There is a fuel OPEN or CLOSED
VALVE on the backside of the filter bowl, I made sure it is open and I pumped
the priming bulb and no fire. I bled at the filter and I bled at the return line, still
no joy. I cracked the injector tubes top and bottom, NO FUEL. I pulled
the Solenoid and hit it alone w/ 12V and no bueno', ordered a new solenoid.
It has to come from ENGLAND. There is another reason why the Military
probably nixed these things. No simple parts stateside.

I called and called and called the Perkins SWP parts house in Santa Fe Springs
and after 5 attempts over 1 hour I finally got a human, there parts tele
numbers are SWAMPED I was told. This is not a good sign, and then being told a simple
Fuel Solenoid needs to be shipped in from ENGLAND does NOT sit well
w/ me. Eventually I think this will get a Kubota Engine put in it and call
it good for 30 years.

So I wait for a fuel solenoid to be shipped from England. Ridiculous..............

I ordered a fuel filter and fuel filter bowl, that bowl looks like glass and
I WISH it was, it is plastic.

 

[SteveKuhn]

I only was half paying attention, but isn't this the one you used over the weekend at Sussex? If so, I heard a couple onlookers comment on how cool it was.

Steve

 

[aheilmann68]

Steve, that is correct. So far only 3 or 4 SS members have said they are owners of the 22 possible trailers so this thread has morphed into a one stop data dump on a rather unsupported item. No tm ever made, a mix and match of hardware and although a very nice package, it is rather complex for a trailer.

Its good to hear you were able to get a quick and cost effective rebuild. When i opend this one up it was toast. Really sucks to hear about the fuel solenoid

 

[Radiogeek99]

I have been watching this thread, I have one of these trailers. I bought mine in the first group. My starter is the same as all the rest, filled with water and rust. The air ride filled right up and holds air, also checked the 24 volt light connection and they work too. I bought new batteries and with the info from this thread I will get the starter fixed. Thanks for the good info!

 

[Artisan]

I have been watching this thread, I have one of these trailers. I bought mine in the first group. My starter is the same as all the rest, filled with water and rust. The air ride filled right up and holds air, also checked the 24 volt light connection and they work too. I bought new batteries and with the info from this thread I will get the starter fixed. Thanks for the good info!

Welcome to the club! If you find any facts dump it here!

 

[Artisan]

Here is the link to go buy all the literature they have available for the Perkins Engine.

https://perkins.midlandcorp.com/Products/ProductSearch.aspx

I finally figured out why I was having an issue w/ that page.
Everytime I went there I read it but I was not selecting ENG for "ENGLISH". Ha!
I guess I am dum that way but the page I was on was English...Anyways you HAVE
to select ENG to narrow things down.

If you selected everything indeed it is over $150.00 The SEBUxxxx doc
is online, you prob do not need the "label" for eighty cents too.

 

[Artisan]

Electrical Shutoff solenoid U85206452 for Perkins 402D 403D 404D 404C 403C 12V

Search the above on Ebay if you want to save some $. This stop solenoid seems to be
a frequently purchased part for these engines, I suggest it is not if, but when yours
will fail.

 

[Artisan]

I found the KENR6226 = Disassembly / Assembly manual for our engines HERE.

Can someone help me look for Perkins Manual KENR6942 please?

 

[Rusty Nut]

Hey all-

I bought one of the first batch. Everything was in order, other than dead batteries (repl/w 340 amp from farm n fleet) and water in fuel. These engines DO NOT like starting fluid, hence the glow plugs. AS someone stated, there is a fuel lever on back of clear fuel bowl. There are also 2 phillips/nuts on back of bowl to bleed, but you must pull bolt holding bowl to get to them- ez, but silly.

Perkins engines are a bit of a pain to bleed the air from, so that's still where I'm at. I rebuild cam operated fuel pump-works fine. cutoff solenoid actuates properly. no fuel at cracked injectors, so I'm still not primed correctly. Intend to pressure priming when I get a moment on a dry day.

The 2 big black roller triangle thingys that are setting on the front of the trailer go on the rear of the cargo container, so when dragged, it rolls on the roller and doesn't just drag.

Air over hydraulic ABS disc brakes, Aluminum rims, air ride suspension, LED lighting.

These units were spec'd for USMC and used exactly one time. They are beautiful, but I will tarp my engine enclosure.

 

[Artisan]

RUSTY! Welcome to the club!

Thanx for the input.

But did you see the pic I posted w/ the GUIDES (Black triangle deals) mounted
to the front of a container and in use? They are to ease the transistion from
flat to angled ramp and, the weight of the container does not drag
on the runners, it all rests on the GUIDE Rollers and the two rear rollers
until the last 10" or so, then it drops down to sit on the 1/2" thick
steel runners. There is even a reveal where the GUIDE ROLLER
drops to put the container directly on the runners at the front of
the runners.

I could be wrong but...........................I would bet on me.

There are two things the manual says to prime, unscrew the ONE
screw at the filter and take apart the return line at the pump. The
manual says it will start after that.

I am trying to figure out just EXACTLY what the Solenoid Fuel Shut-Off
does. Does it retract when power hit it? Is there a lever inside the pump
that gets moved by the Solenoid or does the solenoid's post just
go in and out of a hole in there or what?

 

[Rusty Nut]

Solenoid retracts when the oil pressure builds, I believe. Just unscrew it and crank the engine to verify operation.

I haven't loaded a container yet, but will fool with the roller guides when I do. Your description does sound plausible.

 

[Artisan]

I am SO FREKING happy Happy HAPPY! (Duck Dynasty Rules)

I got my motor runnin'! ***


Indeed the Fuel Stop Solenoid was inop.

The engine should start if you remove the Solenoid, mine did not.

I pulled the Fuel Injector pump as described in the
ASSEMBLY DISASSEMBLY pdf I linked to in this thread past.

DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT DROPPING THAT CLEVIS PIN.
Mine was on backwards so I could not reach it so I had to
pull it off in the dangerzone where I could drop it. If you
need to do this thread a thread thru it first so it can not fall
and get lost is highly recommended.

Next I flooded the Injector Pump ( IP) w/ WD40 and massaged
the roller pumps in and out over and over and over and I now
realized the Fuel Rack indeed does slide back and forth and that is what
actually shuts the fuel down via the solenoid. I really took a
lot of time w/ this pump, squirting and pumping and cleaning
and sliding the rack back and forth and back and forth over
and over and over and more WD40 and wipe downs and pump and pump
over and over and over...Then all of a sudden the Fuel Rack was Sliding really FREE.
My middle pump was easy to use and one end pump was
real tough and the other end pump was semi tough. I just kept
massaging them, and then I added diesel fuel w/ a syringe
to the inlet and in the pump outlets and pumped and pumped
and all of a sudden the 3 pumps were all reacting the same and
the fuel rack was free and things felt right!

Upon re-installation I swapped the Clevis pin so I could install
it very easy from the Solenoid end and I tightened the pump down
torqueing each bolt down very slow and even and tightened
all 2-bolts and 2-nuts to a torque I was comfy w/ (there is a spec)
and reconnected the fuel-in banjo fitting and the fuel return line
after making sure they were clear and all was clean
and I installed the injector tube assembly so lowers were tight
and uppers were almost tight and I hit the crank switch and all of
a sudden I saw fuel at the top tubes, so I tightened them, I hit the
glow plugs for a few seconds then KRANK and VAROOM~! The
fan was throwing tiny pebbles at me HARD and I didn't care.

IT's ALIVE! All works well, winch, bed, remote, you name it
my trailer is now a $77,000.00 Working BEAUTY!






***

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rMbATaj7Il8

 

[Artisan]

Anyone that wants to see how to quickly and easily lop off the
Lunette ring mount w/ a skillsaw just click HERE.

 

[Artisan]

Has anyone identified the axles and their components?

 

[Artisan]

If anyone cares;

I want a place to hold my container GUIDES that is SOLID and Secure.

Lots of him-hawin' later I decided to deck the front w/ 1/2" Aluminum.
You can't put huge wait on the front corners of these trailers anyways.

You see the oblong holes and slits in this deck I drew, I will be able
to tighten the GUIDES twistlock to my deck AND where the GUIDES
tang protrudes down through the deck I will simply drill a hole and
pop in a padlock on each Guide for security.

When the Guides are installed in their places they offer a wheel
stop of sorts as well in case of an ohship moment loading a
wide stance wheeled vehicle.

The winch cable will just skinny under the deck, into a box and of
course a hatch to get at the bridle and a place to store other goodies.

Any input? This is just a PrintScreen from AutoCAD, it is drawn precision
and ready to be waterjet cut unless I change things. Usually do.