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New member intro and request for advice on converting M1101 lights to 12V

Major Minor

New member
2
0
0
Location
Brenham, Texas
Hey guys,

This is my first foray into an organized enthusiast group but not into military vehicles. That pursuit started about 25 years ago, when I acquired a stripped down M-37 minus the engine and some other stuff. Later, I acquired a couple of Korean War era deuce trucks. I no longer have the M-37 but still have the deuces, although I've never done anything with 'em.

I just joined steel soldiers only as the result of a couple of more recent acquisitions, however. These were:

a) a 1991 Chevrolet C3500 stake bed truck (12V) I bought from Fort Bliss in El Paso, Texas about 2 months ago; and,

b) a 2005 Raytheon M1001 cargo trailer (24V) that I bought just a few days ago, at Fort Hood, in Killeen, Texas.

Although the C3500 was "military" it was not "militarized". It apparently was some kind of airport service truck. Other than the fact that it has a pintle plate on the back end, and that it has a two ton suspension (on a long wheel base, one tone frame however), I can see no discernible difference from a regular civilian truck. The tires were older than Moses, but were no different in size or style from the tires on all my one ton Dodge trucks and Ford vans.

The C3500 has apparently had the tow harness wiring removed. There is a receptacle enclosure but no receptacle. It has 7 cut wires inside. Hence, I conclude that the army did use the truck to tow pintle hitch trailers, but that these were set up for 12V. I base this on the fact that the receptacle is there, and the presence of an outline of where a pintle hitch once was. In fact, there are two positions for a pintle hitch in the steel plate. The outline was on the upper plate.

When I bought the M1101 trailer, I went after it in the C3500. Other than the fact there was no way to hook up the electricals, it was "hook up and go".

Anyway, it is now time to get the trailer lights going. What I hope to do here is tell y'all the plan and then request candid feedback on what you think of the plan.

First some additional background: We also have a big 21' long, 9 ton pintle hitch backhoe hauler. Before anybody starts to hyperventilate and cringe, let me say that I DO realize that the C3500 is not gonna be able to haul a 25,000 pound GVWR load. But I do intend to use the truck to pull lighter loads. FYI the empty equipment trailer weighs 6,000 pounds. I'm not sure where I will draw the line until I get some experience. But my first target will be to see how the C3500 does pulling a gross 10,000 pounds (i.e. the trailer and a 4,000 pound load).

THE PLAN:

The point is, that I intend to wire in a 7 way two harness for a trailer with electric brakes, and I wanted to clarify that this is for the equipment trailer, and not the M1101 trailer.

I already have all the stuff I need to install a state of the art tow harness onto the C3500 which will deliver 12V to a standard RV type 7 way receptacle (already) mounted to the rear bumper of the truck.

Rather than cut the heavy duty military plug off the end of the trailer harness, I hope to acquire the appropriate (female) 10 pin receptacle and build an adapter pigtail. I have found such an adapter as a result of searching this forum. So, I'm certainly not trying to take credit for the idea. That adapter appears to sell for about $78.00. I may splurge and just buy one. But, I happen to have the proper multi-conductor cable and plugs already as the result of some other projects. Hence, I am hoping somebody here will point me to where I can buy just the female receptacle. I think I found one already and the price was about $28.00 dollars. I even found what may be the same product on ebay for even less. However, I'm hoping one of y'all will tell me the definitive part number so I don't shoot myself in the foot - especially if I buy one on ebay.

Once I've made the adapter pigtail, I will plug the trailer and the truck together. It is my understanding that the trailer lights MAY work, but that, if they do, they will be too dim to be functional.

Finally, I am to the real point of this thread. Can somebody help me understand what options are available? The primary objective is to not do any permanent mods to the trailer i.e. I don't want to butcher the wiring or the light fixtures. I confess that I only got home with the trailer yesterday, and have not yet had time to open up the light fixtures.

So, what I'm really asking is: What lights on this trailer can be easily converted to 12V bulbs? I am aware that Truck-Lite makes dual voltage tail lights but at a price of $150 each I think I would prefer to just use some magnetic temporary lights taped to the trailer.

I hope the above hasn't been too long winded. For the moment, I intend to use this trailer to carry a big 400 amp Miller welder. In summary, I'm willing to jury rig lights onto the trailer provided that these do not permanently alter the trailer or the trailer lights.

If anybody can suggest what lights to use (LED if possible, but conventional if these are an easy swap into the military fixtures), as well as provide the part number for the military ten prong receptacle, and where to get 'em, I will appreciate it very much.

If I've overlooked anything I will also appreciate your pointing this out to me.

Regards and thanks!
 

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
Welcome! If you get the opportunity head out to the Temple Air Show this weekend. There will be quite a number of SS members there. We'll be loitering around all the big green (mostly) trucks.
 

Major Minor

New member
2
0
0
Location
Brenham, Texas
Welcome! If you get the opportunity head out to the Temple Air Show this weekend. There will be quite a number of SS members there. We'll be loitering around all the big green (mostly) trucks.
Thank you for the welcome and the invitation! Hmmm... Temple is not that far away...

And thanks to all for your responses. Keep 'em coming!

Vernon
 

JH1

Member
305
5
18
Location
Seattle, WA
I second the advice on going LED. I have bought several on ebay. 1156 equivalents cost about $3.50 each, including shipping. Not only will they last forever, they draw way less current, which means that the inevitable corrosion on trailer connections will have less effect. Put another way, the LEDs have way more equivalent series resistance, and a given amount of additional corrosion resistance will have a diminished effect on the net current, which is what drives the light output in a LED.
JH1
 
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