Stuck wipers on M923A0

[manders]

I'm brand new to this hobby and I know I'm smart enough to know when I'm not smart enough ... if you know what I mean. ;-}

I won a M923 back in October, but pretty much just parked it once I got it home awaiting for the New Year so I could title it as a collector vehicle.

It's stored a few miles from home in a locked yard that isn't open on the weekends, which has severely limited my ability to get anything done. Aside from visits every week or so to make sure it started and the batteries were in good shape, all I've done is install a keyed switch and a padlock hasp on the passenger-seat/battery compartment.

When I recovered it, the wipers were 'anemic'. There is no detectable air leak and they worked "better" the longer they ran which makes me think maybe a wiper motor tune-up/rebuild was the best recipe. I figured this would be my first Spring task, seeing as I live in the 'sunny' PNW and having working wipers falls under the "a good thing to have" category. ;-}

Following WP0732, I got as far as step 3 - remove knurled drive ... ruh-roh! That thing is rusted on tight and would not budge.

Short of taking a hack saw to the motor shaft ... can anyone recommend a different way to get the motor off? I have the "new style" air motor so I don't know if anything is even "user" serviceable or if I just need to find a working replacement.

So anyway ... all hints and guidance are always welcome and appreciated.

Thanks.

MAnders.

 

[61sleepercab]

I have not been into wiper job yet but have some suggestions. Try soaking with PBBlaster penetrating oil and vibrate stuck part with small hammer. Re soak if needed. If you are using force to turn something do not just apply full pressure without pulsing or letting up a little on force. If you strong arm bolts or parts to yeild they break and give up you will become expert at drilling out stuff and easy outs.

Try some gentle heat from a propane or oxy torch to the stuck part, nut to the point of soaking heat or up to dull red. Wait a minute and put a wrench on it and try it then. Heat the nut not the bolt, likewise, heat the pulley not the shaft. It works wonders if you are carefull and there is no seals or stuff to burn up. Good luck. mark

 

[manders]

That's excellent advice, I'll give it a shot! Thank you.

 

[manders]

Try soaking with PBBlaster penetrating oil ...

This did a great job, thanks for the advice.

 

[Artisan]

As you know your truck has SERIOUS corrosion issues. It all needs
to be addressed. Start someplace and pull parts and massage things
into shape, clean paint and reinstall.

Yes PB Blaster is AWSOME. It does not take much.
The best way to apply it is just enough to make it almost drip and stop,
then the next day or hours later another tiny blast. I have squirted
problem areas for a week, THEN put a wrench on it. Give it
time w/ heavy corrosion. Sometimes a good wire brushing first
to get the chunks off works well.

A Glass bead blaster is a tool that once you have it, you will forever say" How
did I get along w/o it! " It takes horrible parts and makes them look white steel new.

Media Blast and Abrasives in Brea Calif sells decent units.
Look at the VIPER unit. Or GL has them for sale on occasion.

 

[61sleepercab]

The electrolysis cleaning of iron and steel parts with water and Arm and Hammer Washing Soda with battery charger and sacrificial iron piece process works wonders on rust and some stuck stuff. It makes hydrogen? gas so do outside and do not stick finger in water while treating piece.( do not ask me how I know this) Mark

 

[manders]

The electrolysis cleaning of iron and steel parts with water and Arm and Hammer Washing Soda with battery charger and sacrificial iron piece process works wonders on rust and some stuck stuff. It makes hydrogen? gas so do outside and do not stick finger in water while treating piece.( do not ask me how I know this) Mark

What a coincidence ... I was just reading through those threads.

Thanks for the info!