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LT. Dan M35a2 Modification Thread

tobyS

Well-known member
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I build pneumatic high security locks and use SMC push lock fittings almost exclusively. But I don't like the really rigid PVC air line because it can crack easily, so I use a premium quality urethane (above DOT specs I believe). Don't forget they have 24vdc valves and flow controls too, not just fittings. Want controlled speed of a cylinder or air motor?

Hey LtDan, how do ya like the Behr Ultra exterior paint? I'm attacking my rust spots too, primer and then the Behr.... but thankfully don't have the extent of repair that you are doing. Your doing good work. Don't let it stress you out, being in too much of a hurry!

Is your wife going to do a scrapbook with all your photos for your kids??...she should.
 
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Man I'm sorry guys never got email notices people replied.

I got my fittings from work. I work for a trailer company. We have everything and anything for dot air lines.

As far as the behr paint Idk yet cause I haven't used it yet. Paint will be the last step for the truck. The chassis and under the fenders and suspension are going to get rustoleum oil based enamel.

Yes I'm saving all the pictures on my phone and she will do a scrap book for me. She did one of my Buell and I'm glad she did.

So today I got a majority of the air finished and the dash installed. I mounted the valves to the firewall using existing holes. Hopefully they clear the heater once I get it in the cab. I also got the dash all finished. Everything is working good. Oil pressure is running 60 psi at idle cold and fuel pressure is running around 40 to 50 psi at idle. I didn't rev it to much but up around 1500 rpms it goes up to 60 to 70 psi. The only gauges I don't have plumbed is the air pressure gauge and 12v voltage gauge. I have a few more air lines to run and I'm ready to start cutting the cab.
 

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Air is finished pretty much. I need to run a new line to the air pack but I'll do that when I rebuild it. Also debating on putting a check valve in between the air compressor and tanks and a filter/water separator too. What do you guys think? I'm not going through the trouble of putting in a dryer right now.
 

welldigger

Active member
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Benton LA
I wouldn't put a check valve between the compressor and tanks. The deuce compressor puts out dirty air and can gum up the valve. It wouldn't be pretty if it stuck closed.
 
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Ok so I guess the air system isn't that bad. In 24 hrs it leaked down to 60 psi from 120 psi. I can live with that considering before it leaked out in 20 minutes.

Not much on the agenda for this weekend or the next week or two. I have to get a transmission in my brothers Yamaha raptor. But the extended cab is coming soon.

I did get my cab visor mocked up and I think it looks pretty freaking awesome.
 

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Eh I'm not into the whole green thing lol

And yes the dash wasn't in quite right..... picture below posted. I put Nutserts in the dash and bolted it in then caulked the gap. It seals the light in much better and I'm going to paint it too.

Also got my amp in the mail today and quick wired the pa speaker to see how it sounded. Sounds crappy in the video but really good in person. Going to be good for the rally at Rausch and party's and camping......

http://youtu.be/l2DZGtRCfe4
 

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Ok decided not to do the extended cab....

Started the bob today.... Also found most my brake lines are shot so redoing the whole brake system.....

I got my traction bars on and looks like I'm going to have to move the parking brake cable up and slide the other side under the tank mounts. These things really got me thinking about doing air bags and triangulated four link......
 

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Jeepsinker

Well-known member
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Dry Creek, Louisiana
Don't make it harder than it has to be man. Remember that it is YOU doing the work. I myself hate when I get a grand idea and then figure out just how much work I didn't have to do when I'm well into a task.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
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Location
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Lt. Dan, Do you have an angle on the drive-shaft? On your photo with the bars it looks like it has a lot of up angle. My understanding of drive-shaft geometry is the output on the transfer case and the input on the rear end should be parallel (or close to it), not a large angle. Perhaps it's just the camera angle.
 
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Nothing is clamped together yet at all..... I still need to order u bolts.

And I'm just doing it how everyone else does it with flat lift blocks so idk I haven't really looked at the pinion angle yet.
 

tobyS

Well-known member
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Location
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Yea, I see some space now where it is not tight and of course you will put the overload contact blocks on the frame.

If you have time, would you take a picture of the center part (trunion/spring mount) you took off and the dog-bones. I'm still interested in using them in a 4 link (for a 5 ton) but also wonder about doing it with a deuce. On a 5 ton there are mounting holes in what appears to be the proper place, but I have not seen details of a deuce.
 
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