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fuel filter conversion unit

rustystud

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Does wix or Baldwin even make a 5 micron filter in the old cannister style filters? Most of them I see that fit the deuce are 10 micron. My spin on's are 6 micron.

The cat filters I referenced are 3 micron nominal. With a way higher efficiency rating of anything else on the market except high end specialty filters that are absolute rated.
I have never looked, but AMBAC references there "FSA" filter. This information comes from the NOS Hydraulic Head I just bought. It is dated January 1966.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
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Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
hydraulic head rotating plunger + FSA filter

researching FSA filter only gets me to
http://fsafilters.com.au/Home.aspx

..... been in business 23 years but your AMBAC 1966 paperwork predates that.

They do sell Sakura filters manufactured by the ADR Group of Companies for more than 40 years. The catalog is at http://www.sakurafilter.com/index.php/product

Anyhow, some of my notes on the multifuel fuel distributer rotary pin are attached. Some calculations are incorrect but I was on the right path.
We are trying to protect the plunger sleeve and pin in the gif attached.
I use Norman 606 and Norman 603 on my setup. Can't hurt.

Hydrolic Head 1.gif


Hydrolic Head 1.gifView attachment Norman filter 603M for the Deuce fuel 01082013.pdf

One could search for "Norman 10 micron Filter P/N 610" right now and find the head with filter right now for $34.86 shipped with new made in USA head and 10 micron filter. Plumbed into the in tank pump outlet it sure can't do any harm.
 
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welldigger

Active member
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Benton LA
researching FSA filter only gets me to
http://fsafilters.com.au/Home.aspx

..... been in business 23 years but your AMBAC 1966 paperwork predates that.

They do sell Sakura filters manufactured by the ADR Group of Companies for more than 40 years. The catalog is at http://www.sakurafilter.com/index.php/product

Anyhow, some of my notes on the multifuel fuel distributer rotary pin are attached. Some calculations are incorrect but I was on the right path.
We are trying to protect the plunger sleeve and pin in the gif attached.
I use Norman 606 and Norman 603 on my setup. Can't hurt.

View attachment 493783


View attachment 493783View attachment 493787

One could search for "Norman 10 micron Filter P/N 610" right now and find the head with filter right now for $34.86 shipped with new made in USA head and 10 micron filter. Plumbed into the in tank pump outlet it sure can't do any harm.
My spin on filters are 10 micron for the primary and 6 micron for the secondary filters. Always have a filter designed to capture water plumbed in first. Water can degrade filter elements not designed for it.
 

peashooter

Well-known member
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Location
Hanover, minnesota
So you guys have me curious now. I had changed my secondary fuel filters over to a single unit like shown below using a Wix 33352 rated at 6 micron nominal. I had thought about switching over to the same large sized Baldwin BF7587 filter that I put onto the end of my WMO filter setup (the big red filter on right of the below pic). I believe the specs on the BF7587 are 5 micron absolute, and 1-2 micron at 96% ("nominal" I think). Maybe running a single secondary low micron filter like this will plug it up much faster? I suppose its smart to always have a spare filter with.
The more I read about filters, the less I feel like I know. In hind sight, I perhaps should have stayed with the dual filter set up and done something like Rusty Stud made.
 

Attachments

welldigger

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Benton LA
If your fuel is at least relatively clean then you probably won't notice any difference between a single filter head and a double. Like you said, if it makes you feel better carry a spare in your tool box.

A mistake that many make with running alternative fuels is they think the on board filters will clean the fuel well enough. This is absurdly wrong. The answer is to filter the fuel before it enters your tank. Which in your case, it appears you have that covered.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
I will stay with my 3 filter system like the military originally used (except with spin-on filters). The primary filter will go down to 32 micron, and the secondary down to 6 micron. This will allow my secondary filter to last a whole lot longer then if I did not prefilter with the primary, just like the military did. On a another note, our engines at work must be filtered down to a minimum of 10 microns at the primary and the secondary down to 3 microns. In fact you must NOT prefill the filters with fuel. You must use the engine pump. Needless to say we usually have the jumper cart hooked up to the buss when we replace filters.
The injection pumps will experience permanent damage if a 10 micron particle enters it . Now that is some close tolerances ! Thankfully our multifuels are not that finicky !
 

rolling18

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Portland, OR
rusty, do you have pictures of your setup?
where would I buy one of these?

All I have now is stock type filters I bought in a "kit" form from C&C equipment
none of these have the micron rating on them..
(I run WMO mostly)
 

rolling18

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Portland, OR
WOW thanks for that pic!! that looks super complicated to install!! (for me anyway) he love the gauges! id want to do that in whatever setup I use...
what is the gauge PSI when the filters are full?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
WOW thanks for that pic!! that looks super complicated to install!! (for me anyway) he love the gauges! id want to do that in whatever setup I use...
what is the gauge PSI when the filters are full?
The fuel pressure should not exceed 60 PSI. There is a relief valve between the fuel filters, also on the factory set-up.
I just finished writing you a response on the DOT 3, DOT 4 thread.
 

rolling18

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Portland, OR
yea I just finished that! thanks! Guess we have nothing better to do on a fri night!! hehe

i was thinkin about goin with Jtonkas spin on setup for ease of install ... thoughts compared to yours?
 
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rustystud

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Location
Woodinville, Washington
yea I just finished that! thanks! Guess we have nothing better to do on a fri night!! hehe

i was thinkin about goin with Jtonkas spin on setup for ease of install ... thoughts compared to yours?
Mine was cheaper, but his is easier to install. Just bolt it in. I bought all my filters and housings from "DiscountFleetSupply.com" . I also had to buy a 60 PSI pressure relief valve (cost $45.00 ) . If I where to do it again though, I would just buy "Jtonksa" kit and be done with it.
This is my normal time to go online. I have worked swingshift for over 25 years and it is hard to get out of the habit of going to bed before 3:00 am .
 

welldigger

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Benton LA
yea I just finished that! thanks! Guess we have nothing better to do on a fri night!! hehe

i was thinkin about goin with Jtonkas spin on setup for ease of install ... thoughts compared to yours?
If you have more money than time jatonkas filters are excellent. I have them on my truck. Love them. If your a penny pincher then rustystud built a nice set up. Just 2 different ways to accomplish the same thing.
 

rolling18

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Location
Portland, OR
Mine was cheaper, but his is easier to install. Just bolt it in. I bought all my filters and housings from "DiscountFleetSupply.com" . I also had to buy a 60 PSI pressure relief valve (cost $45.00 ) . If I where to do it again though, I would just buy "Jtonksa" kit and be done with it.
This is my normal time to go online. I have worked swingshift for over 25 years and it is hard to get out of the habit of going to bed before 3:00 am .
If you have more money than time jatonkas filters are excellent. I have them on my truck. Love them. If your a penny pincher then rustystud built a nice set up. Just 2 different ways to accomplish the same thing.
Thanks again for the source info Rusty going to check it out anyway, I hear you on the late hrs! similar story for me but substitute graveyard shift! but now days cant sleep b4 10pm

anyway I really like the gauge setup on Rustys, It looks like lots of work to mount that structure to the engina though, and gives a little under hood "bling" too!
 

rustystud

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Location
Woodinville, Washington
005.jpg007.jpg
Thanks again for the source info Rusty going to check it out anyway, I hear you on the late hrs! similar story for me but substitute graveyard shift! but now days cant sleep b4 10pm

anyway I really like the gauge setup on Rustys, It looks like lots of work to mount that structure to the engina though, and gives a little under hood "bling" too!
Actually the only thing needed to mount it up was a flat plat of steel 1/4" thick. Then I used the filter housings to mark my holes. The biggest pain was figuring out the fittings needed to be able to work in the location it is mounted in. The reason I mounted up gauges was so that I could check when I needed to change out the filters. If there is a pressure difference of more then 4 PSI then you must change out the filters. Also it is a good diagnostic tool if your having fuel problems.
 
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rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
View attachment Scan0015.pdf
What relief valve did you use?

I just installed a new primary filter setup on my M35A2 today and am working on plumbing the secondary and final.
The relief valve I used is from "murcal.com" . It is the "PRV70" and sells for $36.00 + shipping. You can see how I installed mine in the thread I posted on installing spin-on fuel filters. I don't know how to add a link to the thread from here. I'm not all that computer savy like a lot of the younger crowd around here are. Maybe someone can help with that, or tell me how it's done.
 
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