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Schutt Industries 1CSL0-SLC-T-1000 Self Loading Trailer
- Thread starter aheilmann68
- Start date
painter paul
Member
- 181
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Fairbury, Ne
Thanks Artisian
painter paul
Member
- 181
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Fairbury, Ne
Well I made it back. Got over 6 1/2 mpg with the M915A1 and it handled it superbly.John at GL was very helpful(he does Des Moines also).He showed us the 2 generator/ heat/ac containers there and said he thought all those neat rebuilt looking Hummers were to be cut up.Rows and rows of new trailers and shop equipment trailers also. I found a 2" hole thru the inside if one tire sidewall so we put the spare on.
The light on the electrical box is for the ABS brakes. When you step on the brakes it lights and then goes off unless there is a problem with the ABS.
I don't agree with the rain water in the starter. I believe the ole muddy Mississippi flooded and that's why the starters have muck in them and the belly pan has shells in it.
Does anyone know why the oil hubs have grease only in them.
My work lights also don't work.
Take a magnet to your trailer. Lots of stuff is aluminum like the side runner plates the rollers go on.
My fuel lines are cracking and need replacing.
My hyd return line fitting at the hyd block was not even finger tight and siphoned most of the fluid out so I'm sure my unit was never even started or used. Not even a mark on the roller side plates. Also the rear battery starter to battery cable end was broken off.
One of my hub oil caps (plastic) was cross threaded and not sealing so some grease oozed out.
Anyone know an easy way to remove carc so I can polish the aluminum wheels?
I believe some long ramps may be in order to lower the loading angle.
I may not order a new spare yet. I imagine they are very pricey as they are a load range J with over a 6000 lb capacity.
My solargizer charger put a small charge in the batteries but I doubt it will get them usable.
My trailer should ride level after I move the lunette ring to the bottom holes.
Military must be exempt from the DOT over 80" wide trailer requirements which mandate the 3 rear center small red lights. I believe we need to add them to be legal in the US.
Isn't the engine enclosure a class act like the rest of the engineering?
All I can think of for now!!! Thanks, Paul
The light on the electrical box is for the ABS brakes. When you step on the brakes it lights and then goes off unless there is a problem with the ABS.
I don't agree with the rain water in the starter. I believe the ole muddy Mississippi flooded and that's why the starters have muck in them and the belly pan has shells in it.
Does anyone know why the oil hubs have grease only in them.
My work lights also don't work.
Take a magnet to your trailer. Lots of stuff is aluminum like the side runner plates the rollers go on.
My fuel lines are cracking and need replacing.
My hyd return line fitting at the hyd block was not even finger tight and siphoned most of the fluid out so I'm sure my unit was never even started or used. Not even a mark on the roller side plates. Also the rear battery starter to battery cable end was broken off.
One of my hub oil caps (plastic) was cross threaded and not sealing so some grease oozed out.
Anyone know an easy way to remove carc so I can polish the aluminum wheels?
I believe some long ramps may be in order to lower the loading angle.
I may not order a new spare yet. I imagine they are very pricey as they are a load range J with over a 6000 lb capacity.
My solargizer charger put a small charge in the batteries but I doubt it will get them usable.
My trailer should ride level after I move the lunette ring to the bottom holes.
Military must be exempt from the DOT over 80" wide trailer requirements which mandate the 3 rear center small red lights. I believe we need to add them to be legal in the US.
Isn't the engine enclosure a class act like the rest of the engineering?
All I can think of for now!!! Thanks, Paul
Last edited:
painter paul
Member
- 181
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Fairbury, Ne
Oh yes, my lunettes ring is stamped 02 15 and the trailer is sn 15.
HA! OK great Paul and Thank U, a LOT of good info in that!
It's amazing how different people see different things. I only
ever suspected the rims as Aluminum. You can probably pull
a wheel, de-tire it and bring it to a soda or media blaster to
remove the CARC. Not glass beads or sand, but maybe walnut
shells or some other media will remove the paint then allow
a polish if you please.
If you see a pic of these " 2 generator/ heat/ac containers" I
would like to learn a little more.
Bummer about the tire, I believe they are upwards of 5-600 EA.
Flooded Mississippi sounds logical to me.
I have not tried my work lights!
Oil hubs, please keep us informed w/ what you find. We really need a
good part number for those axle assemblies anyways so we know
what we need if and when we need parts.
Ramps are definitely on my list as well. I took delivery of a LMTV
light materials crane that needs massaging so I pulle doff my trailer for
a while.
My solargizer is scheduled to meet my trailer as well and yes, we do
need to add the over width 3 rear center small red lights.
Engine enclosure is sweet yes, I hate the key hanging up though.
Mine I stamped "22 10" Yours really says 02? Yes I have 22 in my serial as well.
I would think I had trailer #22 from the year 2010 model year?
It's amazing how different people see different things. I only
ever suspected the rims as Aluminum. You can probably pull
a wheel, de-tire it and bring it to a soda or media blaster to
remove the CARC. Not glass beads or sand, but maybe walnut
shells or some other media will remove the paint then allow
a polish if you please.
If you see a pic of these " 2 generator/ heat/ac containers" I
would like to learn a little more.
Bummer about the tire, I believe they are upwards of 5-600 EA.
Flooded Mississippi sounds logical to me.
I have not tried my work lights!
Oil hubs, please keep us informed w/ what you find. We really need a
good part number for those axle assemblies anyways so we know
what we need if and when we need parts.
Ramps are definitely on my list as well. I took delivery of a LMTV
light materials crane that needs massaging so I pulle doff my trailer for
a while.
My solargizer is scheduled to meet my trailer as well and yes, we do
need to add the over width 3 rear center small red lights.
Engine enclosure is sweet yes, I hate the key hanging up though.
Mine I stamped "22 10" Yours really says 02? Yes I have 22 in my serial as well.
I would think I had trailer #22 from the year 2010 model year?
- 117
- 55
- 28
- Location
- Homer Glen, IL
Got my starter back from repair yesterday, put it in and after a few tries it started right up. Checked the hydraulics and everything works. How did you guys reprogram the wireless remote?
- 117
- 55
- 28
- Location
- Homer Glen, IL
I thought I saw somewhere that the remote had to be programmed after you change the battery.
- 117
- 55
- 28
- Location
- Homer Glen, IL
Post #2 mentioned reprogramming, found answer in post #5. Thanks.
I want to steel plate the rear 1/2" thick and cut in the standard recess'd key slots
one might find on a flatbed / rollback towtruck bed. I am having a hard time
finding the dimensions or preferably a CAD File for this reveal. Do any of
you guys know where to get this info? CAD files would be GREAT.
one might find on a flatbed / rollback towtruck bed. I am having a hard time
finding the dimensions or preferably a CAD File for this reveal. Do any of
you guys know where to get this info? CAD files would be GREAT.
painter paul
Member
- 181
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Fairbury, Ne
Artisan,
Are you sure you want to use 1/2" plate. Wow that will make your trailer very heavy. Truck beds are at the most 1/4" tread plate. AW Direct from WI has the keyhole slot backing plates I believe. Should make your tie downs easy. I was thinking of using weld in D rings.
Still soaking my starter brush plate. Got new brush springs for $1.25 ea. No success yet, may have to get a new brush plate with brushes if my brushes don't get unstuck soon.
I picked up some 2x10's for decking. Do you know if they will be too thick and would prevent a container from rolling up the bed w/o dragging on the wood? Most if my use should be trailering vehicles but I would still like to do containers too.
Also planning where to put a locking toolbox to hold tie down straps, chains, binders, etc. Maybe a couple deuce toolboxes under the tongue somewhere. Thanks, Paul
Are you sure you want to use 1/2" plate. Wow that will make your trailer very heavy. Truck beds are at the most 1/4" tread plate. AW Direct from WI has the keyhole slot backing plates I believe. Should make your tie downs easy. I was thinking of using weld in D rings.
Still soaking my starter brush plate. Got new brush springs for $1.25 ea. No success yet, may have to get a new brush plate with brushes if my brushes don't get unstuck soon.
I picked up some 2x10's for decking. Do you know if they will be too thick and would prevent a container from rolling up the bed w/o dragging on the wood? Most if my use should be trailering vehicles but I would still like to do containers too.
Also planning where to put a locking toolbox to hold tie down straps, chains, binders, etc. Maybe a couple deuce toolboxes under the tongue somewhere. Thanks, Paul
Paul I am thinking 1/2" thick at the very rear only w/ Alum the rest of the way.
I want the CAD files so I can just cut the chain locks into my deck piece. I am on'the fence about
making the CHIN LOCK slot area out of Aluminum too, but I have to screw it down if Aluminum
WAIT, are the 1.5' x 4" cross member alum or steel? Oh boy...
The starter rebuild guys I linked to do a GREAT JOB. I watched the whole process,
you can not beat the deal bro...tell them I sent you if you sent it to them. They
have special tools that make that process a 10 minute deal and they swap in
a LOT of new parts to do it right. Then they test it! I saw it all...
IMO anything over 1/2" thick on those 1.5' x 4" cross members will prevent you from
using that trailer as I believe it was designed.
When you attach the GUIDES to the front of a 20' container, once you get going the
whole weight of the can rides on the GUIDE rollers, it does not just drag on the rails as I see it,a
and it rolls on the rear rollers until the GUIDES drop down 1/4" at the front, that is what that reveal is for.
Paul did you see my plan for a front GUIDE holders and floor hatch to store goodies in
a basket I plan on making between the frame rails? Look at it. I am getting close to cutting
this stuff and I can do more than mine for a price of corse.
painter paul
Member
- 181
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Fairbury, Ne
Well I got the brushes looses and put the starter back in but no go.
Took it apart and gave the brush springs another 1/2 turn tighter and it worked fine. Cracked the injector top lines, primer bulbed it and SUCCESS! It sounds great , reprogrammed the remote as per the instructions here. Thanks again. Winch works good bed only tries to move slightly. I will lift the bed Monday with the wrecker to help it. I think its probably got air in it since the hydraulic line was loose at the valve block and most of the fluid had syphoned out. Still haven't got the work lights fixed. Going to try to load up the M114, hook up the M915A1/ Tru hitch and head out to the Upland Ne military gathering in a couple weeks.
Thanks, Paul
Took it apart and gave the brush springs another 1/2 turn tighter and it worked fine. Cracked the injector top lines, primer bulbed it and SUCCESS! It sounds great , reprogrammed the remote as per the instructions here. Thanks again. Winch works good bed only tries to move slightly. I will lift the bed Monday with the wrecker to help it. I think its probably got air in it since the hydraulic line was loose at the valve block and most of the fluid had syphoned out. Still haven't got the work lights fixed. Going to try to load up the M114, hook up the M915A1/ Tru hitch and head out to the Upland Ne military gathering in a couple weeks.
Thanks, Paul
painter paul
Member
- 181
- 1
- 18
- Location
- Fairbury, Ne
Even overfull a little but don't think that hurts it. It doesn't whine like the pump is cavitating
Did you get your work lights going? Thanks Paul
Did you get your work lights going? Thanks Paul
quickfarms
Well-known member
- 3,495
- 25
- 48
- Location
- Orange Junction, CA
Decking over the trailer will probably present several problems.
The trailer is designed for a uniform load from a container. A vehicle will load the trailer at a small number of points under the tires. This change in loading could adversely affect the structural integrity of the trailer.
One issue is when loading a container you will have to drag it over the deck instead of it rolling on the rollers. The winch loading system is designed to move a rolling load. It is not designed to drag a load over the deck.
Another issue is locking a container to the trailer the container locks may not be tall enough to lock into the corner fittings. We have found that a lot of containers are not perfectly square and level by the time we get them.
The best way of using this trailer to move equipment or vehicles would be to use a flat track or something like a flat track or build a deck out of a container floor.
My retort in green
Decking over the trailer will probably present several problems.
Indeed there are some challenges but I am confident I can do this and
maintain the best of both (or more) worlds. I have drawn my ideas
into CAD, that is 1/2 the battle, and I see the light at the end of the
tunnel I do believe.
The trailer is designed for a uniform load from a container. A vehicle will load the trailer at a small number of points under the tires. This change in loading could adversely affect the structural integrity of the trailer.
Actually at first look one might assume that. I have some backing to add to
make it sound, but the facts are is the shipping container
does not drag across the rails, it rolls, you connect the GUIDES to the container then
winch it on to the trailer. There are rollers at the rear that take the load and
the GUIDES themselves have rollers. The very last 8" or so of the rails, up
front, ramp down thus allowing the container to sit "ON" the rails and not on the
rollers either front or rear. Kinda hard to explain, I will drag it to a SCMVCC
meet when I am done modifying it. The structural integrity of these trailers
is off the hook incredibly beefy, right down to the 6005 POUND rated EACH
tires. The trailer has a 15,000 capacity w/ a GVW of 22,000 Pounds, so a
20' container weighs about 5,000 pounds and you can load 5 TONs in the
container THEN load it, OR unload it. Till you see it, it is hard to explain.
It is a beef cake monster.
One issue is when loading a container you will have to drag it over the deck instead of it rolling on the rollers. The winch loading system is designed to move a rolling load. It is not designed to drag a load over the deck.
Read above, the container rolls on rollers till the very end maybe 8" or so.
Hard to explain, once you see it you will realize the genius in the design.
When loading or unloading the container for the most part rolls on rollers,
front AND rear.
Another issue is locking a container to the trailer the container locks may not be tall enough to lock into the corner fittings. We have found that a lot of containers are not perfectly square and level by the time we get them.
I am sure there are some beat up containers out there. Our plan is to
buy one trippers, even then there is a LOT of slop designed into the
corner connectors. Click HERE to see what Schutt used OE on these trailers. As a matter
of fact I looked up these parts just today because I am thinking about
making the exact same design on the back of my M916 for a 10' long Container. I have a
plan that is 75% thought through...I can do this I am quite sure.
PS, were accepting pricing for 1-20' one tripper and 1- 10' one tripper.
The sand or Beige coloring is acceptable, Mil green a bonus! No junk...
The best way of using this trailer to move equipment or vehicles would be to use a flat track or something like a flat track or build a deck out of a container floor.
Nope, that would be too heavy and too complicated.
Once you see it in person you will understand my concept I do believe.
Here is a PrtScr from my CAD program showing my real life design. The very front will
be cut from .5" thick Aluminum and the other two will be cut from .5" steel plate.
Here is a PrtScr off my CAD program, accurate down to .xxxxI am getting very
close to completing phase 1, phase 2 will be a lot easier, that being just 1/2" thick
Aluminum over welded in steel channel for backing. It will be awesome...