Turn Signal Issue

[ralph3162]

Well when it rains it pours I guess. I have had a brake problem over the weekend which I have figured out the problem (Air Pack). Then I had an issue figuring out how to replaces the axle seals (thanks for the help). Now this morning without warning or symptoms of any kind my turn signals wont work. Brakes lights, Head lights all other lights work just turn signals and emergency flashers don't work for no apparent reason. I have ordered a new flasher unit and a new turn signal lever, and a new light switch. So as long as its not in the wiring then I should be good but just seems weird I fix one thing and two more stop working. Thankfully I can afford to by parts and replace what's wrong and save the rest for future spares. That being said I like to do preventive repairs. I like to replace things before they go bad so I am looking for suggestions as to what are the most common things that go wrong with 2 1/2 ton green iron so I can get ahead of the curve and fix things before they break. Any suggestions about the usual common problems with these vehicles would be great. Money is not an object I have a great Oil Field job that pays well and I live cheap so I have lots of mad money. Just want to know that I can get in and drive across country if that is what is needed at a moments notice. Thanks for the input.

 

[rosco]

When these trucks were in, and out of service, deferred maintenance is common. Often they have been just plain, used hard, with little or no maintenance. Welcome to the Club. Brakes are always an issue - has the rest of the system been done yet? If not, you might want to get that over with. Boots & inboard seals, on the front axel, is another. Those are major ones, that come to mind. Good Luck

 

[TMNT]

Assuming your lights are regular bulbs and not LEDs, open them all up and check for corrosion, broken wires, or bad bulbs. Mine had some issues with corrosion that caused intermittent grounding problems. The turn signals would work sometimes and sometimes not. I also had the flasher unit fail and much later, the turn signal switch failed.

These trucks got used hard, and often sat for months or years. Stuff happens. You will likely discover a number of items in need of maintenance and repair due to prior neglect. Keep after it, you will eventually get most everything sorted out. These trucks take a lot of TLC to keep them in full working order.

If you haven't done so yet, open up the hubs, inspect the brakes, repack the bearings, replace the seals and boots. Be very critical of the wheel cylinders and soft lines. If in doubt, replace. Replace all fluids and filters. Flush the cooling system thoroughly and refill with proper coolant. Inspect the belts, water pump and air compressor. (You'll need a set of compressor wrenches!) Clean and inspect the batteries and battery terminals and connections. Especially check the hot cable from the battery to the solenoid, it's bad about getting chafed where it exits the battery box. Check your parking brake operation, cable condition and lube where appropriate.
Grease all 895 grease fittings (kidding, but there are a bunch of them!). While your under the truck, look at everything with a bright light. Check the drive shaft / u-joint flange bolts, they're prone to backing out. Check every nut and bolt you can reach, vibration shakes them loose.

Besides that, there's really not that much to do.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Sounds like the latest thing is a bad ground on the flasher, at least that's what I'd check first. Remember, it's mounted on the fender and the other side of the bolts are in the wheel well. Could be them, or one of the bolts holding the fender on the frame that has a little bit of rust buildup, preventing a good ground.

 

[ralph3162]

Well I have checked and cleaned the grounds. Replaced 3 bad bulbs. (All Blackout Bulbs) Still no turn signals or flashers so it must be the flasher unit or the turn signal lever. I have ordered both should be here in a few days. Wish a lot of the people I order parts from had express shipping. The parts are scheduled to arrive the day before I go to work not much time to trouble shoot if the problem persists after new parts are installed. Although if that is the case then its wiring and that can be a bear to diagnose. I have no clue about the plugs and which wires do what so it will be a couple days of research ahead in the TM's trying to figure out and understand the wiring lay out LOL. Sounds like I just need to stop relax take a drink and start fresh tomorrow Hahahaha.

 

[ralph3162]

In reply to the earlier post. I have replaced the radiator and flushed the system. replaced all the fluids. Replaced all belts and hoses basically I have replaced all rubber in the truck including all cab and window seals. The water pump and compressor are in good working order no leaks no loose pulleys. I have spares incase that changes. I have replaced park brakes shoes and adjusted. complete grease job top to bottom front to back. New wheel cylinders, brake shoes, brake lines, bearings, bearing seals, axle seals and boots in the front. Just finished that the other day. Batteries as well as all cables and connections cleaned inspected and in good order. U-joints all seem in good order but I am ordering all new ones anyway for future use. I do have some leaky seals in the tranny and transfer case that I will need to address sooner or later not sure how tough a job that is yet.

 

[TMNT]

Sounds to me like you're hitting all the usual trouble spots and taking care of business.

The wiring on the deuce is actually fairly simple after a bit of study on what goes where.

There's a couple of leaks on the transfer case and transmission that are common and hard to stop. The shift-shaft at the top of the transfer case will likely always have enough oil creep to keep the area around it wet, but not enough to drip. If you fill the transmission too full, it will puke a bit out of the input shaft area into the bell housing. Keep the trans fluid about a 1/2" down from the bottom if the fill hole. Still, I've never seen a completely leak free deuce. I think the leaks must be designed in for rust proofing purposes!

If you're looking for stuff to do, one of the better upgrades is to add the remote reservoir for the brake fluid. That allows you to easily check the fluid level every time you get in the truck.

 

[VPed]

You mentioned the brakes lines were replaced. Did that include the flexible brake hoses? Mine were dry rotted. I searched on here and learned that some folks experienced brake hose failure, even with NOS replacements. I decided to take no chances with that so I took my old hoses down to a local hose place with brake hose capability (DOT compliant). I had new ones made up with stainless steel braided hose. Not original looking but huge on the piece of mind chart.

 

[ralph3162]

Yes I should have specified I changed all the soft brake lines. (Rubber)

 

[SteveKuhn]

When the electrical parts come in, you might consider changing them one at a time and testing in order to find out if one particular unit was the culprit. Flasher first, and everthing's fixed? Great! Keep the new switches wrapped up until you need them (or a buddy does.)

Steve

 

[porkysplace]

Well I have checked and cleaned the grounds. Replaced 3 bad bulbs. (All Blackout Bulbs) Still no turn signals or flashers so it must be the flasher unit or the turn signal lever. I have ordered both should be here in a few days. Wish a lot of the people I order parts from had express shipping. The parts are scheduled to arrive the day before I go to work not much time to trouble shoot if the problem persists after new parts are installed. Although if that is the case then its wiring and that can be a bear to diagnose. I have no clue about the plugs and which wires do what so it will be a couple days of research ahead in the TM's trying to figure out and understand the wiring lay out LOL. Sounds like I just need to stop relax take a drink and start fresh tomorrow Hahahaha.

Does the Turn signal unit have power coming into it and out ? The same for the flasher ?
I would trace where the power stops before ordering parts that may or may not fix it .

 

[ralph3162]

I am not real bright. I always order all the parts to replace the entire system start to finish. Then I replace parts one at a time until I find the problem. I then replace the parts I used and store the rest for future problems. I am getting quite a stock pile of parts. HAHAHAHAHAHA

 

[SteveKuhn]

If you're looking for preventative, you might want to start visiting electrical connections under the hood as well as grease fittings and seals. While the alternator is off, I got a good look at the connections on the starter and such and sorta figured I've been lucky that the crud on them hasn't caught up with me yet. They get a nice cleanup before things go back together.

Then again, after making a small project of cleaning up the battery connections, the alternator failed in short order. Mebbe the crud is there for a reason.

Steve

 

[porkysplace]

I am not real bright. I always order all the parts to replace the entire system start to finish. Then I replace parts one at a time until I find the problem. I then replace the parts I used and store the rest for future problems. I am getting quite a stock pile of parts. HAHAHAHAHAHA

The problem with replacing electrical parts before locating the problem is if there is a short that fried the part when you install the new part it will fry that also . Then we here how the supplier sent junk parts. This is also why suppliers won't refund or take returns on electrical parts.

 

[SteveKuhn]

It's true that a few minutes with a test light or meter can save a lot of hassle. I also have an old extension cord w/ clips on each end to take the part directly to ground on the batteries. Comes in real handy.

Steve

 

[ralph3162]

Yes I am reviewing the TM's and learning about what wires go where and I planned on testing them first. But Upon tracing and visual inspection all looks in good order. I hope I will feel informed enough to get my meter and start testing tomorrow and should receive new parts either Thursday or Friday.

 

[rustystud]

You mentioned the brakes lines were replaced. Did that include the flexible brake hoses? Mine were dry rotted. I searched on here and learned that some folks experienced brake hose failure, even with NOS replacements. I decided to take no chances with that so I took my old hoses down to a local hose place with brake hose capability (DOT compliant). I had new ones made up with stainless steel braided hose. Not original looking but huge on the piece of mind chart.

You should have ordered the hoses from "peashooter" . He has the complete system if you need it too, and the quality of parts is top notch !

 

[porkysplace]

You should have ordered the hoses from "peashooter" . He has the complete system if you need it too, and the quality of parts is top notch !

Why pay shipping when you can buy the same thing local and not have to wait .

 

[rustystud]

Why pay shipping when you can buy the same thing local and not have to wait .

The quality for one. Second for price.

 

[porkysplace]

The quality for one. Second for price.

Can get the same quality hose locally here and made up in less than 1 hour and when you figure shipping it's cheaper local .
The steel lines I make myself .