Plode's M923A2

[plode]

I went and checked each brake chambers vent- no leaks, that I can tell. I disconnected each vent line, listened and felt for any air/pressure and felt none.
There are 3 connections on the bottom of the intake stack. One is vents for the fuel tank, and 2 other lines...no air from that line. I cannot get the other two lines off easily.

Trying to figure out what they go to. One appears to go to the air compressor intake. Could the compressor be leaking air back into the intake line?

 

[plode]

Ok so I determined the three intake connections are: 1. air brakes 2. ctis 3. vents from fuel tank/transmission etc.
So I think we can eliminate #3 as the truck doesn't have a fording kit.
CTIS is disconnected from the wheels, but the supply side is still "on" in the truck(not the computer but the pneumatic stuff is still being pressurized). Could be a possibility, but I'm willing to bet its the air brakes, but I cannot figure out what exactly is venting... Only things it could be is stuff in the drivers side step since I'm fairly certain I eliminated the brake chamber diaphragms.
I'm going to pull the exhaust line off the quick release valve in the step to see if that valve is leaking.

 

[plode]

Just went and opened up the step and checked the valve. It's not leaking.

Where the heck is this air coming from?!?!

The secondary tank drains much quicker than the primary if that helps anyone who might have any sort of clue about where the leak might be.

 

[plode]

Well I got the drivers side plate fitted, holes drilled in it, rusty metal primed underneath it, and started welding it in. I was using the method that others on here have suggested for sheet metal(series of tack welds). Well, I'm about 300 tack welds in, and I'm only about 1/2 way done(46" x 6" plate). I think the other plates might get put down with seam sealer and just a couple tack welds. I'm way too impatient to do 1000+ tack welds.
I primed the rest of the rusty areas in the cab as well.

Got the plates all secured down, and put down a some dyna-glass around the edges to smooth things out. I didn't get anything sanded down yet, it took me a while to mix up little batches of the dyna-glass and then put it down as smooth as I could get it with the putty knife. Figure the smoother it is when I put it down, the less sanding I'll have to do.
Will probably start sanding it, and doing a skim-coat to finish off any imperfections on Sunday.

I need some sort of solvent to remove the contact cement/glue or whatever it was they glued the insulating panels to the back of the cab wall. The panels were half falling off, but a few spots that were still glued down very well left a lot of residue behind. Need to clean that all off prior to painting. Anything suggestions on some good stuff to use?

 

[plode]

I need some sort of solvent to remove the contact cement/glue or whatever it was they glued the insulating panels to the back of the cab wall. The panels were half falling off, but a few spots that were still glued down very well left a lot of residue behind. Need to clean that all off prior to painting. Anything suggestions on some good stuff to use?

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys.

So far I've tried(unsuccessfully):
Krud Kutter Adhesive Remover
Paint thinner
Lacquer thinner
Gasoline
Some orange spray that my dad says he uses at work for removing adhesive
WD40
Surface preparation stuff(pre-paint)
Brake Cleaner

I'm thinking of buying gasket remover. I remember that worked well on something I tried it on before, but I'm all out...it's $10 for a 4oz can(will take at least 2..maybe 3 cans).
I don't care if it strips the paint off with it. I'm painting it as soon as it's all cleaned off... it's holding me up from painting the floor. I don't want to drip any of these chemicals on a freshly painted floor.

Any suggestions? I've also contemplated putting some sort of insulating panels back in rather then trying to remove all of this adhesive. Don't want it to get expensive or really time consuming..trying to get the cab all back together this week.

 

[plode]

I've decided to try paint stripper from Home Depot. Kleen Strip Premium Stripper. We'll see how this stuff works tomorrow if it doesn't rain. I don't care if it takes the paint off, it's all getting painted with fresh paint anyway.

 

[plode]

Making progress. Even this Klean Strip stuff, which has been known to easily strip CARC is taking 4-5 applications to remove everything, and longer than recommended application times(recommended is 15 minutes, I've been leaving it 30-60 minutes- in 15 minutes it has barely done anything).


It just started downpouring, so I'll have to continue this later.

 

[plode]

Also, put in some Biobor into the diesel. Truck hasn't moved in over a month, so I want to keep things from getting gunky in the tank. Put in the shock dosage- 2oz(80 gallons- the tank is full).

 

[plode]

Finally found what I believe to be leaking back into the intake- the treadle valve is leaking. So now I'm on the hunt for a replacement or a rebuild kit.

 

[Hard Head]

Finally found what I believe to be leaking back into the intake- the treadle valve is leaking. So now I'm on the hunt for a replacement or a rebuild kit.

Did you ever find the correct front air valve for your truck? The company that designed the abs quit using the bendix valves. They redesigned so that the feedback line is built into the valve itself. Seems the made in China version from Bendix had many issues including pipe dope that got inside and would either plug up the system or make the ball valve fail. I have complete ABS kits putting ABS on any 939 5 ton. Let me know if you ever need the valve. I had intermittent air leaks to the stack and finally found that the ball in the old bendix valve was cracked thanks to great detective work by my buddies Andy and Ken.

 

[plode]

Did you ever find the correct front air valve for your truck? The company that designed the abs quit using the bendix valves. They redesigned so that the feedback line is built into the valve itself. Seems the made in China version from Bendix had many issues including pipe dope that got inside and would either plug up the system or make the ball valve fail. I have complete ABS kits putting ABS on any 939 5 ton. Let me know if you ever need the valve. I had intermittent air leaks to the stack and finally found that the ball in the old bendix valve was cracked thanks to great detective work by my buddies Andy and Ken.

Well, the truck got the ABS upgrade, but whoever performed the upgrade neglected to install the upgraded LQ-2 Bendix valve. It had some old valve that I haven't seen on any other trucks(or in pictures on here), nor could I identify the brand or model. I installed the new LQ-2 valve, and had a local airline/hydraulic shop make up the one extra line that was needed(from the exhaust port to...I forget now).
That did not fix the air leak to the intake stack. Took lines off the treadle valve and found it venting a steady stream of air on the secondary line without the pedal being depressed.

 

[plode]

Got the back wall painted, 2 coats so far, and did one coat with Behr's anti-skid junk in it on the floor. I couldn't even tell there was any grit in it when I painted the floor. Stuff was probably just a waste of money.

Hopefully these rain showers won't get into the truck too much and ruin my paint job.

Pretty soon I'll be able to get the seats back in and batteries back in, and get her fired up. Can't wait to take her out to a couple of my fishing spots...I haven't had any truck in 5 years(used to have a 93 F150 4x4), so I haven't been able to get out to them. My friend tried getting us out there the other day, but we almost got his Chevy 1500 4x4 which is about worthless off road, stuck. I doubt the mud puddle his truck almost got stuck in will even touch the rim on the M923.

 

[plode]

Got the battery box back in, batteries in it and hooked up, hooked the solar charger up, installed the passenger seat(after painting it). Fired the truck up and moved it so I could mow the grass under it. It started right up after sitting for close to a month. I have to touch up a few spots that got scratched moving the battery box and seat into the cab. I'm waiting for my dad to bring home some rusty metal primer home from work(he works at Home Depot). I'll get the drivers seat base painted tomorrow, it was really rusty(I had to chisel the rust off, it as at least 1/4" thick in some spots).
I'm going to Tractor Supply to buy some hydraulic oil for the transmission tomorrow. It's leaking really bad... idled for a minute or two in my driveway while I mowed and left a 8" puddle. I'm fairly certain it's leaking from the pan gasket, which I have new(in addition to a new filter in the pan).

 

[plode]

Went to tractor supply yesterday and got hydraulic oil that is Allison rated. It was on sale.
I already had the pan filter and pan gasket.

Started this morning by letting it drain for a few hours while I got some other stuff done(opening our pool up). I think went underneath and checked things out to ensure that is all that was leaking. I found the PTO cover was leaking as well. So I called up the semi-local(30 minutes away) to see if they had the PTO cover gasket. They did... $7.50.
So I raced up there, got it, and came home. Pulled the PTO cover off, cleaned it, put the new gasket on and torqued it down. Then went underneath, removed the dipstick tube from the pan, and removed the 20 or whatever bolts from the transmission pan. Several were only hand tight, so perhaps that is why it was leaking. Got the pan out, emptied the remaining oil out, and went to town cleaning it. Swapped out the spin on filter. Realized the gasket was going to be a PITA, so I went to Napa, and got some gasket cement to hold the gasket in place, also picked up a grease zerk for the front hood pivot. Old one broke off, so I have to extract that.
Put the gasket cement on and got the gasket positioned on the pan. Got it all bolted back up, got the dipstick tube threaded back on, and went to town filling it up.
Started with 3.5 gallons or so, and then started her up. Let her idle for about 30 minutes, then ran it through all of the gears. Checked the level...WAY low. To my surprise, I ended up adding pretty much all of the 5 gallons of hydraulic oil I bought. There might be a quart left in the bucket, but the transmission is right at the full line now...perfect.
No leaks...(knock on wood). Can't take it for a drive yet, I don't have the drivers seat back in the cab yet. I'll try getting that painted tomorrow.

Tomorrow I have to degrease everywhere the transmission leaked, and made a huge mess(mainly the crossmember). Have to take the oil out to the dump and dump it into the recycling container. Next up is changing the engine oil.

I am exhausted. It was 95 degrees out today and was outside working from 9AM till 8PM.

 

[plode]

Got the drivers seat back in today. Took the truck for a drive. Got lots of looks and stares as usual
When I got back to the house, I parked it, and let it idle for a few minutes to let the turbo cool down. When looking underneath to ensure my gasket replacement on the transmission pan was holding, I noticed oil dripping out of the crankcase vent tube. GREAT!!!!!! (sarcasm). About 1 small drip per 2 seconds.

Oil level is OK. So now I guess I get to think about forking out some serious money to get the engine rebuilt, (even though the military did it in 2009).

 

[plode]

Got the drivers seat back in today. Took the truck for a drive. Got lots of looks and stares as usual
When I got back to the house, I parked it, and let it idle for a few minutes to let the turbo cool down. When looking underneath to ensure my gasket replacement on the transmission pan was holding, I noticed oil dripping out of the crankcase vent tube. GREAT!!!!!! (sarcasm). About 1 small drip per 2 seconds.

Oil level is OK. So now I guess I get to think about forking out some serious money to get the engine rebuilt, (even though the military did it in 2009).
Unless someone has a good running engine semi-nearby(that I can drive to) that has the equipment and can help me with the swap, I think I'm limited to taking somewhere and paying someone to rebuild it.

Located in Cape May County, NJ.

 

[plode]

So I did the non-official excessive blowby check- by unscrewing the oil cap and seeing if it shoots off of the valve cover. It doesn't.
I've read a lot about Cummins motors in general having oil dripping out of the crank case vents, a lot of people extend them so it doesn't undercoat the underside of their trucks. Cummins even recognized there was a problem and made a kit(enviro guard I think its called). I checked the price of it, $237.
I devised my own system that will accomplish the same thing, for about $70. Using a Moroso oil breather, and instead of the catch can filling up, I'm going to put a barbed fitting in the can instead of the petcock, and am going to run the line back to the oil pan. This way the crank case can vent easily(got the 12AN model, it has a 2" filter on it), and any oil that comes out doesn't get dumped all over the front driveshaft- it'll run right back into the motor. Just need to get the one 3/8" barbed fitting and need to figure out how I'm going to get the oil back into the pan(where to let it drain in- I see one potential spot- the location where the oil dipstick would normally be on most 6CTA's- on the drivers side).

 

[plode]

Got the sides of the bed painted. Next up...the tail gate. It's going to be very labor intensive doing underneath the bed, and the bed itself. Lots of rusty spots that need attention. But she's starting to look good, finally.


Still have to peel the masking tape off of the reflectors and placards. Need new mudflaps too. And troop seats. And a cargo cover.

 

[Carlo]

Your getting it sorted! Nice work.

 

[Elideclan2]

Looks great! Thanks for posting all your work.