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Artisan's M916
- Thread starter Artisan
- Start date
- 413
- 69
- 28
- Location
- Brookings, SD
It looks like a lot of work because he's doing it right! Very high quality work. Keep it up! Well done.
Al Jones
M923
Al Jones
M923
Tornadogt
Member
- 720
- 6
- 18
- Location
- Adkins, Texas
I use this style hose on race cars for fuel line. Another trick that works very well is Boiling Water. Place the end of the hose in a pot of boiling water for 1min. They soften up real nice and slip on easy with no worry of getting them too hot or burning anything..
Super clean install.. I should have my kit in a week or so I really like the shifting it over the 3 inches for better fit.
I considered hot water first but I seem to remember that A/C systems
really dislike moisture so I steered clear of the water trick. Additionally
a guy has to be VERY cognizant of debris getting in the lines. These
hoses come w/ both ends plugged so I am doing it so one end is always
plugged and the other is connected.
Were pluggin away at it here, well, until it gets so hot that the tools burn
my hands then I seek refuge inside...
really dislike moisture so I steered clear of the water trick. Additionally
a guy has to be VERY cognizant of debris getting in the lines. These
hoses come w/ both ends plugged so I am doing it so one end is always
plugged and the other is connected.
Were pluggin away at it here, well, until it gets so hot that the tools burn
my hands then I seek refuge inside...
R Racing
Active member
- 2,767
- 16
- 38
- Location
- St. Leonard, MD
Hang in there its not that bad of job once you figure everything out 
Hangin' I am R R~! If it was not so hot and 14 stories off the ground I would be done! Ha!
I just got an email and the 3' long 6 pin extension cable I wanted is "in the mail" .![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
I keep contemplating the 2 hoses and wire going up the back. I almost want to see
that installed in a shield of sorts but I can't seem to nail exactly what. Maybe a
piece of 2" ABS cut in two long ways? I dunno...
I just got an email and the 3' long 6 pin extension cable I wanted is "in the mail" .
I keep contemplating the 2 hoses and wire going up the back. I almost want to see
that installed in a shield of sorts but I can't seem to nail exactly what. Maybe a
piece of 2" ABS cut in two long ways? I dunno...
- 10,457
- 6,529
- 113
- Location
- Camp Wood/LC, TX
How about drill through the roof and run the hoses down the inside of the cab in the fiberglass insulation cavity? Can't be more than, what, a day's extra work? LOL
R Racing
Active member
- 2,767
- 16
- 38
- Location
- St. Leonard, MD
Look up Gore flex tubing. Or just flex tubing. It's used alot in cnc machines and is perfect for this application!! Where I live I couldn't do the exchange on top like you. To many big low branches on our roads.
Moving it over 3" does reduce the legroom for Soldier B a bit but
driving thru the desert, heading West, in the afternoon, in July, w/o
A/C is murder. I did it ONCE in my 5 Ton, never again. Besides,
my Soldier B is about 5'-4 and 115, I am 5'-11, 250 and I fit so
she has plenty of room.
I remember you writing that Jim, and I certainly contemplated it before I
bolted mine down up there. That is another reason why I used my own hardware
and specifically fender washer underneath, just so if I tag a limb I hopefully break
it instead of tearing it out. A guy really needs to carry a chainsaw w/ these things
and a limb lopper too. I have a 12V Chainsaw that I might find a home for on
this rig.
I am off now to Google "Gore flex tubing". Thanx!
The grey colored convoluted tubing that is exposed looks horrible.
I started pulling it all off where exposed and replacing it w/ BLACK
and some of it is way too big, specifically that harness that goes
up the back of the cab. That section is just 2 wires, I got it inside
1/4" convoluted tubing.
I hope someone resolves the 2 sets of drier plugs! I hope I can
just snip those puppies off and reduce the bulk up top even more.
I started pulling it all off where exposed and replacing it w/ BLACK
and some of it is way too big, specifically that harness that goes
up the back of the cab. That section is just 2 wires, I got it inside
1/4" convoluted tubing.
I hope someone resolves the 2 sets of drier plugs! I hope I can
just snip those puppies off and reduce the bulk up top even more.
The 7155 tranny has a heater assembly that brings the tranny temp
up to minimal operation temperature when it hits, If I remember right
5 degrees. (Anyone know for sure?) I do not expect to be in that kind
of weather anytime soon but should I sell the truck I would want it to
perform.
That heater is right where the #12 hose from the Evap to the Compressor
likes to lay, I can't have that. The options to strap it solid
are few so I eyeballed a large female threaded hole at the very rear
of the engine block on top, then rummaged thru my scrap hardware and found
a 3/4"-10 x 2" Long bolt, then cut a piece of chain link and welded it
onto the top and Viola! Insto-Strapo POC.
I used some Anti-Sleeze so it will come off if ever needed some 300K miles
away from now hopefully. Use a HEAVY Zip tie here.
up to minimal operation temperature when it hits, If I remember right
5 degrees. (Anyone know for sure?) I do not expect to be in that kind
of weather anytime soon but should I sell the truck I would want it to
perform.
That heater is right where the #12 hose from the Evap to the Compressor
likes to lay, I can't have that. The options to strap it solid
are few so I eyeballed a large female threaded hole at the very rear
of the engine block on top, then rummaged thru my scrap hardware and found
a 3/4"-10 x 2" Long bolt, then cut a piece of chain link and welded it
onto the top and Viola! Insto-Strapo POC.
I used some Anti-Sleeze so it will come off if ever needed some 300K miles
away from now hopefully. Use a HEAVY Zip tie here.
In post #38 I spoke of the wiring harness being too short.
I made up a 3' extension cable and it ended up being
just right. Now the install is EASY and things are accessable
around the inner perimeter of the underside of the cab.
Here is a pic, I will cover it w/ convoluted tubing I think .
to make things look symmetrical.
I made up a 3' extension cable and it ended up being
just right. Now the install is EASY and things are accessable
around the inner perimeter of the underside of the cab.
Here is a pic, I will cover it w/ convoluted tubing I think .
to make things look symmetrical.
The compressor install was straight forward. I am not
happy w/ the metric hardware RD uses everywhere, not
happy at all w/ that, it is another set of tools now.
The compressor bracket mounts to bolt holes existing,
I highly recommend you chase those threads w/ a tap
prior to trying to use them. Be sure to blow
them out as well. I did this and used anti-sleeze and it
went in w/o issue.
I swapped in a better fan clutch and a new set of "matched belts".
Be sure to slip the A/C belt on first, before the matched set.
I will go into the new fan clutch soon and you DO WANT to
hear what I say.
I think a guy should wiggle some cardboard between the fan and
the radiator to prevent damage to the radiator and simply pull
the fan clutch to change out fan belts or add the A/C belt. I think
it would be WAyyyyyyyyy easier than what I did to replace the fan clutch
which was;
Pull the top 1/2 of the fan shroud.
Separate fan from fan clutch.
happy w/ the metric hardware RD uses everywhere, not
happy at all w/ that, it is another set of tools now.
The compressor bracket mounts to bolt holes existing,
I highly recommend you chase those threads w/ a tap
prior to trying to use them. Be sure to blow
them out as well. I did this and used anti-sleeze and it
went in w/o issue.
I swapped in a better fan clutch and a new set of "matched belts".
Be sure to slip the A/C belt on first, before the matched set.
I will go into the new fan clutch soon and you DO WANT to
hear what I say.
I think a guy should wiggle some cardboard between the fan and
the radiator to prevent damage to the radiator and simply pull
the fan clutch to change out fan belts or add the A/C belt. I think
it would be WAyyyyyyyyy easier than what I did to replace the fan clutch
which was;
Pull the top 1/2 of the fan shroud.
Separate fan from fan clutch.
ATTN F-Wag (another book 
)
My fan clutch was leaking air. So adding the A/C compressor Y
was the right time to swap in a new fan clutch. You can get parts to rebuild
it for $300.00, then do the deed, new they are like $1200 if you can
find it or a reman. So I found some fan clutches on GL and
picked up the lot. They are made by Bendix. The "More Info"
link on the GL lot clearly said they were for the 14-20 ton
M915 Series of trucks. It is the whole shootin' match, clutch
and mounting bracket. You swap over the 1/8" x 5" long
nipple and 1/4" air feed adaptor and bolt it up. I think I have
4 left for sale btw.
Doing the job alone was a challenge but after contemplating
the situation I found an easy way to do it alone. First remove
the turn signal that keeps trying to give you a prostate exam.
Now simply grab a board, I used a spare M925 Rear cover stanchion.
Now grab a 10" bungie cord. Lay the board over the top
of the "X" bracing up high w/ one end DS and the other end PS.
Lay the 10" bungie perpendicular centered over the FC. Grab
one existing fan belt and put it in the inner groove of the FC.
Connect the 10" bungie to the belt. VIOLA! You just made SOLDIER B
and he will not talk back either! After that you still need to man-handle
a 42 pound chuck of metal in and out but this method makes install and
removal wayyyyy easier.
Ok so I get it all together less the fan shroud and knowing Murphy is out there
I started it to make sure things were ok. I start it and the fan instantly
was locked up and turning. Hmmmm, well, were all smarter then the
instructions for such mundane tasks right? NOT. I pick up the instructions
and it clearly says ;
SYSTEM CHECK OUT
After completing the installation, the fan can be
tested for function by starting the engine with no air
in the system. The fan should operate immediately
after the engine is started and should stop as the air
pressure builds to 80 PSI........
OK so I wait for 80 PSI and the dang thing is still in lock up
100% of the time.
I start to question my fan actuator but I KNOW it worked prior.
Shortening the story after talking to the awesome owner at KIT MASTERS
and a great email from Larry at fanclutch.com I found out that
The Bendix operates opposite of what the OE Horton does.
(PS, KitMasters now owns the Bendix design!)
The Horton is air to engage, normally closed switch.
The Bendix is air to dis-engage normally open switch.
UGH!!! I am PO'd, I would prefer the truck to be stock and I go inside
and pout. It is now too hot to work, I am done. I called a friend, he does
not answer, he was at the Littlefield Collection auction. He calls me back
several hours later and he knew exactly what was going on and he added
that the Bendix is a better design IE this;
"If you loose your air compressor you loose your fan clutch w/ the OE system.
NO DRIVE HOME (Of course caging brakes) but w/ the BENDIX if you loose
your compressor the fan comes on and you are still OK! " (So if your OK
driving a 28 thousand pound behemoth w/o brakes carry on! ) but still,
something to think about.
I think it makes good sense, I am sticking w/ the Bendix but I do have to
swap out my Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve. The instruction sheet for the BENDIX has part
numbers right there for the part you need based on a 10 degree closing
over the engines thermostat. I found a 190 degree actuator
cheap on Ebay NOS.
BUTSOMEHOWEVER. I was told that with some Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valves
you can simply swap the air plumbing and it works backwards and I "think" I
was told that if you have a Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve that works by wires
that you can reverse polarity and it runs backwards too! So it all depends
on what you have as to weather or not you need to change your
Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve.
Or you may have the BENDIX stock!
...and I just realized I didn't change the innermost serpentine belt and now I will
take it all apart and do it all over again so I will tell you how the method
I suggested prior about leaving the fan attached and just pulling the
FC to replace belts works... sigh, more practice.DAYCO 5060436 (serpentine belt)
EDIT: The Bendix FC says your Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve should be 10 degrees higher
than the thermostat. The OE thermostat is supposed to open at 185 degrees I just read, ,
I had assumed 180, bad on me, so to do this perfect per Bendix instructions you want
to buy the Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve that is set at 195 degrees. I grabbed a
190 degree Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve, I think I will be A-Ok.
)My fan clutch was leaking air. So adding the A/C compressor Y
was the right time to swap in a new fan clutch. You can get parts to rebuild
it for $300.00, then do the deed, new they are like $1200 if you can
find it or a reman. So I found some fan clutches on GL and
picked up the lot. They are made by Bendix. The "More Info"
link on the GL lot clearly said they were for the 14-20 ton
M915 Series of trucks. It is the whole shootin' match, clutch
and mounting bracket. You swap over the 1/8" x 5" long
nipple and 1/4" air feed adaptor and bolt it up. I think I have
4 left for sale btw.
Doing the job alone was a challenge but after contemplating
the situation I found an easy way to do it alone. First remove
the turn signal that keeps trying to give you a prostate exam.
Now simply grab a board, I used a spare M925 Rear cover stanchion.
Now grab a 10" bungie cord. Lay the board over the top
of the "X" bracing up high w/ one end DS and the other end PS.
Lay the 10" bungie perpendicular centered over the FC. Grab
one existing fan belt and put it in the inner groove of the FC.
Connect the 10" bungie to the belt. VIOLA! You just made SOLDIER B
and he will not talk back either! After that you still need to man-handle
a 42 pound chuck of metal in and out but this method makes install and
removal wayyyyy easier.
Ok so I get it all together less the fan shroud and knowing Murphy is out there
I started it to make sure things were ok. I start it and the fan instantly
was locked up and turning. Hmmmm, well, were all smarter then the
instructions for such mundane tasks right? NOT. I pick up the instructions
and it clearly says ;
SYSTEM CHECK OUT
After completing the installation, the fan can be
tested for function by starting the engine with no air
in the system. The fan should operate immediately
after the engine is started and should stop as the air
pressure builds to 80 PSI........
OK so I wait for 80 PSI and the dang thing is still in lock up
100% of the time.
I start to question my fan actuator but I KNOW it worked prior.
Shortening the story
after talking to the awesome owner at KIT MASTERSand a great email from Larry at fanclutch.com I found out that
The Bendix operates opposite of what the OE Horton does.
(PS, KitMasters now owns the Bendix design!)
The Horton is air to engage, normally closed switch.
The Bendix is air to dis-engage normally open switch.
UGH!!! I am PO'd, I would prefer the truck to be stock and I go inside
and pout. It is now too hot to work, I am done. I called a friend, he does
not answer, he was at the Littlefield Collection auction. He calls me back
several hours later and he knew exactly what was going on and he added
that the Bendix is a better design IE this;
"If you loose your air compressor you loose your fan clutch w/ the OE system.
NO DRIVE HOME (Of course caging brakes) but w/ the BENDIX if you loose
your compressor the fan comes on and you are still OK! " (So if your OK
driving a 28 thousand pound behemoth w/o brakes carry on! ) but still,
something to think about.
I think it makes good sense, I am sticking w/ the Bendix but I do have to
swap out my Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve. The instruction sheet for the BENDIX has part
numbers right there for the part you need based on a 10 degree closing
over the engines thermostat. I found a 190 degree actuator
cheap on Ebay NOS.
BUTSOMEHOWEVER. I was told that with some Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valves
you can simply swap the air plumbing and it works backwards and I "think" I
was told that if you have a Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve that works by wires
that you can reverse polarity and it runs backwards too! So it all depends
on what you have as to weather or not you need to change your
Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve.
Or you may have the BENDIX stock!
...and I just realized I didn't change the innermost serpentine belt and now I will
take it all apart and do it all over again so I will tell you how the method
I suggested prior about leaving the fan attached and just pulling the
FC to replace belts works... sigh, more practice.DAYCO 5060436 (serpentine belt)
EDIT: The Bendix FC says your Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve should be 10 degrees higher
than the thermostat. The OE thermostat is supposed to open at 185 degrees I just read, ,
I had assumed 180, bad on me, so to do this perfect per Bendix instructions you want
to buy the Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve that is set at 195 degrees. I grabbed a
190 degree Thermo-Pneumatic Control Valve, I think I will be A-Ok.
Last edited:
I have received a couple of requests for the extended
harness. Trust me when I tell you I did the research and
no one sells these things, they have to be made, several
one time use EXPENSIVE tools are required too.
I am looking into getting them made FS, give me some time.
harness. Trust me when I tell you I did the research and
no one sells these things, they have to be made, several
one time use EXPENSIVE tools are required too.
I am looking into getting them made FS, give me some time.
It works and it is EASY.
Leave the fan attached to the fan clutch, hang it as I suggested and
push the whole deal forward and you can easily install your A/C belt
and replace ALL BELTS on this pulley system. Is nothing else learning
this trick was worth it all, a guy can change his belts FAST this way.
granted I had all tools there already but it took all of "maybe" 10 minutes
to get that inner serpentine belt 100% off and on the ground this way
with the A/C compressor and its belt.
That inner DAYCO #5060436 serpentine belt is on Ebay for $16.00, free ship.
Leave the fan attached to the fan clutch, hang it as I suggested and
push the whole deal forward and you can easily install your A/C belt
and replace ALL BELTS on this pulley system. Is nothing else learning
this trick was worth it all, a guy can change his belts FAST this way.
granted I had all tools there already but it took all of "maybe" 10 minutes
to get that inner serpentine belt 100% off and on the ground this way
with the A/C compressor and its belt.
That inner DAYCO #5060436 serpentine belt is on Ebay for $16.00, free ship.
I just found an inherit flaw at the compressor.
the charge 90degree fittings really should be
a 180degree configuration or the potential for
bending them in the future wrenching on the
engine is tremendous. Off I go on a search...
The top is what we get, the bottom is what
I would like to have, it is a cobbled together
photochop...
Needed in #12 and #8 hose size.
the charge 90degree fittings really should be
a 180degree configuration or the potential for
bending them in the future wrenching on the
engine is tremendous. Off I go on a search...
The top is what we get, the bottom is what
I would like to have, it is a cobbled together
photochop...
Needed in #12 and #8 hose size.