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Pulsetech solar panel install location on Deuce

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Central NY
Not to veer off course too much..... and of course I'll call the Pulsetech chappie on Monday. BUT, has anyone any ideas re getting just the "smart box" as I have two panels on the cowl behind the hood of my 916A1 with the wires cut just below. No sign of the unit(s) which do the thinking, near the batteries or anywhere in between.

Also if I get a new (single) unit complete, can I add panels to up the voltage - series 12v + 12v so as not to waste the panels that I have.....?

Thanks
 

JasonS

Well-known member
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Eastern SD
There are many off the shelf charge controllers and PV modules. I have a Morningstar Sunsaver 10 that I plan on using for my truck with a larger PV module.

Yes, you can add modules in series or parallel to obtain the voltage or current needed (just like batteries). Just note that if you have a dead module in series with a good module, you will be limited by the bad module and the total output will be zero.
 

JOateyNV

Member
59
1
6
Location
Henderson NV
I installed mine behind my passengers seat with the test button on the door side. Ran wiring under cab to the fire wall and out at the hood seam. I used the provided connectors to make the solar panel removable. I just have to remove the panel from the hood and tuck in the wires. Easy = good

IMG_1881.jpg
 
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JOateyNV

Member
59
1
6
Location
Henderson NV
Not to veer off course too much..... and of course I'll call the Pulsetech chappie on Monday. BUT, has anyone any ideas re getting just the "smart box" as I have two panels on the cowl behind the hood of my 916A1 with the wires cut just below. No sign of the unit(s) which do the thinking, near the batteries or anywhere in between.

Also if I get a new (single) unit complete, can I add panels to up the voltage - series 12v + 12v so as not to waste the panels that I have.....?

Thanks
NO. that simple.
 

Jericho

Well-known member
1,180
69
48
Location
Landaff NH
I use the fuse box portion of the system as an aux fuse panel, I tap 12 and 24 volts paid $25 new installed for 2 year no problems
 

JasonS

Well-known member
1,650
144
63
Location
Eastern SD
Not to veer off course too much..... and of course I'll call the Pulsetech chappie on Monday. BUT, has anyone any ideas re getting just the "smart box" as I have two panels on the cowl behind the hood of my 916A1 with the wires cut just below. No sign of the unit(s) which do the thinking, near the batteries or anywhere in between.

Also if I get a new (single) unit complete, can I add panels to up the voltage - series 12v + 12v so as not to waste the panels that I have.....?

Thanks
You could get a different solar charge controller and use the existing panels.
 

Andrmorr

Member
274
7
18
Location
Burlington, NC
Finally installed my PulseTech SolarGizer
FYI...you don't have a Pulsetech Solargizer (which looks like this)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOLARGIZER-...olt-/321755379660?hash=item4aea1d77cc&vxp=mtr

You have a Pulsetech Charge Distribution system which is WAY bigger and a whole lot better. The Solargizer does not charge a battery it only pulses across the cells and keeps it from sulfating...the CDS WILL actually charge the system and keep it from sulfating along with providing power distribution...Congrats!
 
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Plane Fast

Member
408
3
18
Location
Panama city FL
Well perhaps something he had to say was correct but he is definately wrong on the number of wires coming off the solar panel (see my pic), there are only 2. I'd question everything he said at this point. I would certainly think the PDU doesn't have any electronics in it so it probably could be used for the just a fuse block, double check of course but I wouldnt go by the word of the person at Pulsetech you spoke with. Sorry for recommending that, I assumed they would just say "I dont know" rather than guess as appears to be the case. I think the Push To Test unit is the item with the "smarts" for the pulse charging thing.
Hey peashooter. I know this is a old thread. Do you still have the wire and connector in your photo? It's the one that goes into the push to test box. I would like to know which pins are pos and neg. I'm putting together a system, but I don't have that connector.
thanks
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
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Location
Hanover, minnesota
Hey peashooter. I know this is a old thread. Do you still have the wire and connector in your photo? It's the one that goes into the push to test box. I would like to know which pins are pos and neg. I'm putting together a system, but I don't have that connector.
thanks
I'll try to figure that out in the next week. My truck is parked for the winter with a cover on it. Maybe I'll try putting a worklight on the solar panel and take a volt meter to the pins on the wire connector that plug into the "push to test" box. Perhaps someone in a warmer climate can check this out before I get to it?
 

peashooter

Well-known member
1,038
205
63
Location
Hanover, minnesota
I managed to get some pictures when I got home today. Unfortunately the pictures arent great since it was a 4 hand job to hold everything for the picture. Anyway when looking at the plug with the middle pin toward the bottom, the pin on the left is Positive, and the middle bottom pin is negative, right side is not used.

When looking at the plug receptacle on the Push to test box you can go by the pictures below (I'm pointing the red positive probe at the positive contact, and the negative black probe at the negative contact.) hope this clears it all up for you.

For what its worth, I put an LED worklight on top of the solar panel to test it (since its dark here) and the voltage at the plug was 20v.
 

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Plane Fast

Member
408
3
18
Location
Panama city FL
I managed to get some pictures when I got home today. Unfortunately the pictures arent great since it was a 4 hand job to hold everything for the picture. Anyway when looking at the plug with the middle pin toward the bottom, the pin on the left is Positive, and the middle bottom pin is negative, right side is not used.

When looking at the plug receptacle on the Push to test box you can go by the pictures below (I'm pointing the red positive probe at the positive contact, and the negative black probe at the negative contact.) hope this clears it all up for you.

For what its worth, I put an LED worklight on top of the solar panel to test it (since its dark here) and the voltage at the plug was 20v.

Thank you peashooter!
Thats exactly what I needed.:beer:
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
So I've been looking at my PulseTech for a few weeks and I'm not any closer to a install location. Any one else have another location they like? I have a soft top and would hate to have to drill holes in the hood or cowl behind the hood.
Understand.

I have a Solargizer on mine, was there when I bought it, and it's in the same place, on the cowl just in front of the pass side windshield.
 
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