How do I get the creme that used to be oil out of the engine?

[1 Patriot-of-many]

M923a0 Unclear if I contaminated the oil during the oil cooler replacement or if I messed the replacement up somehow but it's creamy and the first few drops out the drain pan were water as in me flushing the cooling system with dawn and water. Question is how do I get the creamy stuff fully removed from the lubrication system? I drained everything, opened up the oil filler cap and can see the rocker arms are still coated with this creme. Hopefully I don't have to redo the oil cooler, but I'm thinking I'm going to be wasting 7 gallons of oil shortly.....

 

[Suprman]

Change oil and run it hot with the cap open maybe some of the water will evaporate? Repeat

 

[helomech]

As long as no more water is getting in the oil, the water should evaporate on it's own.

 

[74M35A2]

As others are saying, it is almost common in anything driven a short distance. Run it hard to get the engine and oil temps over 212F or as close as possible, and the water will boil off. Should be no damage as long as more is not contaminating. Careful, anti-freeze does eat the coatings off of bearings, and leaves them like sandpaper. As long as it is just water in oil, it will be ok.

 

[WillWagner]

The above is correct about the oil needing to be above the boiling point of water. Water will also ruin bearings, coolant or water will displace the oil film and cause rust on the journals of the crank, cam, rocker shafts, cam follower shafts, etc. Take the valve covers off and clean the goo off of them and wipe the rockers off, change the oil and filter, then go run it hard. Let it sit a few hours then change the oil and filter again. If any water comes out, you messed up on the o-ring installation on the o/c. Don't let it sit too long with water in it.

 

[jetjockB747]

I've used diesel in the past. On marine gas engines. It will attract the moisture in your crankcase and exit with most, if not all the crud.

 

[WillWagner]

That works too, just don't load it too much, diesel doesn't lubricate things very well.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

The above is correct about the oil needing to be above the boiling point of water. Water will also ruin bearings, coolant or water will displace the oil film and cause rust on the journals of the crank, cam, rocker shafts, cam follower shafts, etc. Take the valve covers off and clean the goo off of them and wipe the rockers off, change the oil and filter, then go run it hard. Let it sit a few hours then change the oil and filter again. If any water comes out, you messed up on the o-ring installation on the o/c. Don't let it sit too long with water in it.

Thanks, that's my biggest worry, i screwed up the OC installation somehow! I hate starting all over, but I tend to have to do things twice LOL

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I've used diesel in the past. On marine gas engines. It will attract the moisture in your crankcase and exit with most, if not all the crud.

What would be an appropriate amount for the cummins NHC250?

 

[Ford Mechanic]

How about transmission oil???? It has been common practice on gas engines, after head gasket replacement to fill the crankcase with trans oil as it absorbs water better than engine oil and run it for a couple miles then bring it back and change the oil while it's hot. One of those old tricks.

 

[jetjockB747]

What would be an appropriate amount for the cummins NHC250?

You would need to disable the ignition. Drop a gallon of diesel in to the crankcase and turn the motor over a few times. Drain the diesel and service the engine with appropriate lubricant. Drive it a few miles, and change out oil.

 

[74M35A2]

Just change the oil, mark the new level on the dipstick after the first start, take it for a long drive, check that the oil level is not raising, and you should be good to go.

 

[WillWagner]

You might want to verify the o/c repair. Drain the oil, let it drip for a few hours, remove the drain pan and replace with some cardboard, leave the drain plug out. Put pressure on the cooling system and walk away, have a beer or your fav bev and come back in a hour. See if there is water on the cardboard and a loss in pressure on the tool. If no water, give it an oil and filter change and continue on.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Okay I just went ahead and filled it with 15w40, wife took it for a drive, Temp stayed right at 180-190, checked the oil when we got home, looks okay so far. I need to drain the water/dawn a time or two more out of the cooling system probably, I have no clue how long the Army was operating the vehicle with a bad oil cooler. I noticed when i picked it up the coolant was oily and whenever I ran it and it got hot the surge tank would overflow with oily coolant., I think the O/C installation is okay. Will take one more drive next weekend and make sure the oil level is staying where it should be and coolant isn't overflowing. Lot's of great suggestions from you all. I appreciate it immensely. Will update. I might also go ahead and change the oil again.

 

[rivercreek]

Patriot, what ended up being your result? Just to clarify, did you have coolant/water in your oil immediately after you replaced your oil cooler, or was there some delay? I've got a very similar problem (water/dawn soap in oil) but oil contamination didn't occur until app. 50-60 miles AFTER my oil cooler replacement. (First, oil in coolant. Replaced oil cooler. Drove 50 miles flushing coolant system, now water/dawn soap in oil). Trying to dial in possibilities while keeping my fingers crossed that it's not a liner... Also, how many oil changes did you end up doing to finally get completely rid of the chocolate milk?

 

[rivercreek]

Forgot to mention, i'm working on an M923 A1 Cummins 250. Woops.

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

Patriot, what ended up being your result? Just to clarify, did you have coolant/water in your oil immediately after you replaced your oil cooler, or was there some delay? I've got a very similar problem (water/dawn soap in oil) but oil contamination didn't occur until app. 50-60 miles AFTER my oil cooler replacement. (First, oil in coolant. Replaced oil cooler. Drove 50 miles flushing coolant system, now water/dawn soap in oil). Trying to dial in possibilities while keeping my fingers crossed that it's not a liner... Also, how many oil changes did you end up doing to finally get completely rid of the chocolate milk?

I did two oil changes I believe. My oil was creamy immediately after replacing the oil cooler. Think I'm fine now. Same engine as yours 923A0. I'll run it again tomorrow when it's warmer, but I've driven it a few times since and the oil looks good.