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Windshield frame?

Jeepsinker

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Ok, My mite has the M38 windshield frame upgrade and it is rusted out. I need a new windshield frame but I need to know if it is a frame from a regular m38, or an m38a1? I'm going to order a new repro if the price is right and I don't want to order the wrong one.:roll:
 

swbradley1

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It would be easier for the experts if you posted pictures of what you have.....
 

Jeepsinker

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Roger that. Thanks guys. I also noticed that the section of body that the frame mounts to is steel as well. It is rusted out on one side. Is that m38a1 as well, or a mite specific adaptor part?
 

NDT

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The only M38A1 part is the actual windshield, everything else is Mite.

Edit, this is incorrect, see post #13 of this thread.
 
Last edited:

Amer-team

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If you have someone that does a little sheetmetal work, it really doesn't look that bad from the pics. Then you would have a repaired original piece to that vehicle. You can definitely get a repro frame or probably find a used one that is in better shape. M38A1 yes.
 

Jeepsinker

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I can do some sheet metal work, and I do have a thermal dynamics tig machine, but I know how rust is. Once it starts you can never get rid of it. The frame is a lot more rotted out than it looks in the picture.
 

Austringer

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The windshield you have is mite specific and not M38A1. They look similar and can be used on either vehicle. The fastest and best way to tell which is M38A1 and which is M422 is by the placement of the hood rests in relation to the windshield wiper motor shaft. The hood rests on the M38A1 are centered with the wiper motor shaft. The hood rests for the M442 are set off to the side and are shaped a little different due to the hood difference between the M38A1 and the M422 series. You def have an original M422 windshield. I would not worry about using a M38A1 windsheild to replace it as 99% of people do not know the difference.

Jason
 

Austringer

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Roger that. Thanks guys. I also noticed that the section of body that the frame mounts to is steel as well. It is rusted out on one side. Is that m38a1 as well, or a mite specific adaptor part?
I have the long bar and end caps if you want them. $50 for all 3 pieces plus shipping. All in good shape and not rusted out, though they might have some surface rust on them.
 

NDT

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Great article on the Mite in the August 2014 issue of the MVPA Supply Line. Just got it in the mail. Lots of critical restoration info, especially for the engine and chrome lining.

Austringer, thanks for the info on the difference between a Mite and M38A1 windshield. I was taught incorrectly!
 

Jeepsinker

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I have the long bar and end caps if you want them. $50 for all 3 pieces plus shipping. All in good shape and not rusted out, though they might have some surface rust on them.
I'll take them. Pm me some contact info and we can get that set up. It looks like I am going to need some other parts as well (hood, left front nose panel) I was able to find some reproduction turn signals on Erik's for around $28 bucks each, but mine had the original amber signals with glass lenses until an unfortunate loading mishap... Would really love to have the glass lenses again.
 

Jeepsinker

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Great article on the Mite in the August 2014 issue of the MVPA Supply Line. Just got it in the mail. Lots of critical restoration info, especially for the engine and chrome lining.

Austringer, thanks for the info on the difference between a Mite and M38A1 windshield. I was taught incorrectly!
Franz, would you mind mailing me that copy when you get done with it? I'll mail it back, just would like to sponge the info from it.
 

ke5eua

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Franz, would you mind mailing me that copy when you get done with it? I'll mail it back, just would like to sponge the info from it.
I'll send you mine, better than the kids getting ahold of it. I'll put it in the post tomorrow for you.

Was just thinking, your restore that mite you should join the mvpa.
 

Jeepsinker

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Dry Creek, Louisiana
I will need to get a rivet gun and the proper pits for it, as well as a good bucking bar and a large quantity of aircraft rivets if I do an MVPA quality restoration. There are a lot of corroded and popped off rivets that need replaced. Proper restoration would require full deconstruction and re-riveting of the entire body. I was planning on properly riveting the areas that I can get to and just pop riveting the inaccessible areas. I will probably take the body off the frame though and repaint the frame, replace all the rusty steel lines, and replace all the rusted nuts and bolts in the suspension. I need a new front driver side leaf spring too. Rust has irreparably claimed it. Need to do all the shackle and spring bushings too. This truck was a national award winner at some point in the 80's, then it sat and rotted. Still has an MVPA sticker on it.
 
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