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5 ton tie rod in place of 2.5 ton?

mdmorgan

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At the Ga rally this year I bent the tie rod on some rocks, with some much appreciated help I got it straightened back out enough to get me home. Now, what I want to do is put a 5 ton tie rod in its place, mainly for 2 reasons. 1. They are stronger. 2. I already have several of them laying around. What I need to know is 1. Does anyone KNOW any reason why this will not work? I don't need speculation as to why it "might" not work. 2. What is the degree of taper on the 5 ton rod ends? (I can figure this on my own, was just curious if anyone already knew). And 3. Well I can't think of a 3rd question right now but I may later. Thanks
 

patracy

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Can't answer any of your questions. But I'd throw a tape measure on it first to see what the OAL is. Next measure the rod end shafts to see their OD and see if there's enough room/meat in the 2.5T to fit them. I'd venture a guess the threaded shaft is larger as well. Steve6x6x6 probably knows all about this and has the answer to making it bulletproof.

BTW, are they M939 series?
 

mdmorgan

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Forsyth, Ga.
Can't answer any of your questions. But I'd throw a tape measure on it first to see what the OAL is. Next measure the rod end shafts to see their OD and see if there's enough room/meat in the 2.5T to fit them. I'd venture a guess the threaded shaft is larger as well. Steve6x6x6 probably knows all about this and has the answer to making it bulletproof.

BTW, are they M939 series?
When I pulled the bent one out at the rally, the tires were toed out, the 5 ton rod went in with the rod ends screwed all the way in, so once the toe is set it will be about the same as the deuce rod. Everything is bigger, that's why I couldn't just swap the rod onto the deuce rod ends. The nsn says they are for a 939. Are the 809 axles different?
 

steve6x6x6

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I have made them with double wall thickness still using the stock 2 1/2 ton tie rod. And have made solid 1 11/16 CR 1018 round stock drilled a tapped RH and LH thread with jam nuts. If you find a tapered reamer with 4 degrees per side large enough but you will need to cut weld the 5 ton tie rod to length.
 

tie6044

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Blaine, MN
Weld a piece of angle iron onto the tie rod bar. I did it on my mud truck and haven't bent it since. Make the length from clamp to clamp and weld it to each one then stitch weld it along the bar.
 

steve6x6x6

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There is only one real way to bypass the stock steering arm from doing all the work. Hydraulic assist, replace the tie rod and use one of the ross steering box HF542996 with 4 lines. This was recommended to me by someone here on the board. Here is a pic of one of my setup's for offroad only ( i have made over 100 of these setup's) but can be used with the 4 line ross box. The only draw back to this complete setup, it is $,$$$.$$
 

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oddshot

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Weld a piece of angle iron onto the tie rod bar. I did it on my mud truck and haven't bent it since. Make the length from clamp to clamp and weld it to each one then stitch weld it along the bar.
Yep. I think this would be the simplest way to stiffen them up.

There is a lot of strength in the bend of angle iron. Anytime you want to make a flat plate stronger ... like a step in a ladder ... put a right angle bend in it.
 

mdmorgan

AM3 U.S. Navy
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Location
Forsyth, Ga.
There is only one real way to bypass the stock steering arm from doing all the work. Hydraulic assist, replace the tie rod and use one of the ross steering box HF542996 with 4 lines. This was recommended to me by someone here on the board. Here is a pic of one of my setup's for offroad only ( i have made over 100 of these setup's) but can be used with the 4 line ross box. The only draw back to this complete setup, it is $,$$$.$$
I already have power steering and would love to do hydraulic assist, just don't know where to tap into the box.
 
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