Condensation and milkshake in my trucks valve cover

[Jeepsinker]

Yes, find an overflow bottle and plumb it to the overflow line. If your line is solidly plugged, cut it above the plug point and plumb the overflow tank hose in there.
It is not just a catch can if you use an actual coolant overflow bottle. You can get universal coolant catch bottles at most auto parts stores. Get the biggest one you can.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yeah, cut the tube and run a hose to a bottle.

 

[EWhytsell]

I had the same, goo on my valve Covers. It's gone now that I drove it a long enough distance. I was only taking short 10-40 mile trips all the time in not so warm weather.

I also lose about a gallon of water in a short time. Definitely not head gasket related for me either. I've so far been unable to find any leaks. Changing the hoses sounds like something I should try.

 

[Castle Bravo]

My line was plugged and since takes two 90 degree bends, you can't hardly clean it out. I cut the line and ran a piece of hose as a drain. A while later I added an overflow tank and just hooked the hose into that. Seemed to work okay.

 

[Jeepsinker]

If you are losing coolant with no apparent sign of leaks, you should warm the engine up, get up on the driver side fender, then reach down to the throttle linkage and do some engine revving while watching the radiator cap. They tend to leak there and the coolant blows around and dries up leaving no real sign of a leak. This is exascerbated if the overflow tube is plugged.

 

[zout]

Close to what Razer said - but make sure you have the correct # pressure cap on the radiator. If someone stuck the wrong one on at a higher pressure the radiator will puke coolant to whatever poundage of air pressure it needs to equalize coolant and the given pressure.

Meaning a 10# cap needs less room to puke out coolant (that is why you never fill a radiator neck to the top - its needs room for pressureization) A 13# cap will make it puke more because it needs more room to build pressure. Hope this makes sence.

Then load er up and run it hard like Phil said.

 

[skinnyR1]

I picked up a new radiator cap on my way home today, at napa. I like that overflow bottle idea too.
Hopefully ill get to drive it tomorrow, and see if I can make heads or tails of the situation.

 

[rustystud]

Any engine will get that creamy oily crap if you only run it short distances, especially in winter. The engine acts like a giant condenser attracting moisture, and if not properly warmed up will build up this crap. Drain the oil and run it hard ! Then afterwards only take it out when you know you will get it properly warmed up, especially in winter.

 

[patracy]

Looked like the valve covers in my first deuce engine. Turned out to be a cracked water jacket.

 

[skinnyR1]

Looked like the valve covers in my first deuce engine. Turned out to be a cracked water jacket.

The thread where you detail this is exactly what worries me. What did the crankcase oil look like, and at what rate was it rising or making itself evident on the dipstick? Was there a direct correlation between your coolant level drop, and what showed up on the dipstick or was it coming out the slobber tube?

 

[RAYZER]

Might just be leftover condensation accumulated from the original head gasket leak.

 

[patracy]

It was milky. I could change the oil and go for a drive and would see it. Coolant would drop too. Lots of gunk coming out the slobber tube.

 

[skinnyR1]

I put on about 30 miles today and then dumped the oil. New radiator cap. The oil is black, the correct amount, and has no signs of milkshake or water. So thats good.
The slobber tube continues to drip water. Just water now, no slop. It was clogged with sludge before and is now clear and flowing.
The coolant dropped again tho. Where its going, I have no idea.

 

[patracy]

Hopefully it's out the overflow and just burping itself.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I wish you were closer, I'd take a look at it for you.

 

[mbehne]

Wouldn't a quick coolant pressure check help to determine where the coolant is going? Or at the least, tell you if it holds, most likely it just burped some.
With that said, I have seen plenty of gunk in engines that was just a result of not being ran hard or warm enough.

 

[RAYZER]

If your oil isn't contaminated with coolant and you have water coming out of the slobber tube there is alot of left over moister from the original "crankcase full of antifreeze", some crankcase flush and some additives may be in order!

 

[skinnyR1]

I thought I had filters on hand to change the oil, but apparently I do not. So now it sits while those wait to come in.
In the mean time, I will pressure test the coolant system again as suggested.
And I would so appreciate if there was anyone around with experience with these for a second opinion, but I know there is not. There are not many around here in Connecticut.

 

[skinnyR1]

If your oil isn't contaminated with coolant and you have water coming out of the slobber tube there is alot of left over moister from the original "crankcase full of antifreeze", some crankcase flush and some additives may be in order!

What kind of additive or flush is suggested?

 

[tennmogger]

How is your thermostat? That milky sludge could indicate the engine is running cold all the time. Does your temp gauge show a good stable operating temperature? IIf the thermostat is working but only holding a low temperature, say 160 deg, I'd go with a higher temp thermostat.

Does the slobbering start as soon as the engine starts to warm up? When the radiator is slobbering, how much pressure is being held behind the cap? If the radiator continues to slobber even with a new cap, maybe there's a damaged seat under the cap, or a crack allowing fluid to bypass the cap.