welder choice...

[98G]

Miller passport. 110 or 220. Take it with you anywhere.

the multimatic 200 is the same kind of portability and weight(und er 30lbs) and in addition to MIG will also do SMAW and non critical TIG.

 

[rustystud]

Wow, That's some really cool stuff you've worked on. I have never welded with 12018 but have used up a truck load of 7018 when I worked on the road. Have used NIC L Weld rods for some cast repairs. Also use TIG for mostly aluminum and MIG most else. Thanks for the reply interesting stuff.

Sadly the company I worked for "Kolstrand Marine" went out of business a few years back . The fishing fleets could not compete with all the Russian fish on the market (sold dirt cheap !) , especially when our fleets cannot fish all year round like there's can. The company had been in business since the early 1900's, over 100 years . Makes me really sad.
By the way, if you take the Ni-rod and bust off the coating you can then use it with the TIG unit to weld up cast iron really well !

 

[Artisan]

Blue it is for me, I am looking at the MultiMatic 200, but I just
read the specs and if I am reading it right it says 20% Duty Cycle.

Does that mean I can run it for 12 Minutes and then I have to
let it run w/o using it for 48 minutes? Is that a really poor duty
cycle?

I do .125" and .25" and .375" steel welding usually but I want
to learn TIG for roll bars etc and have some aluminum capability
and stick for that occasional "reach in there and button it up" repair.

I am running a Miller VINTAGE machine currently and time to upgrade.
It is good for little things but seems to peter out after a few minutes use.

CLICK HERE for the MultiMatic 200 Specs

 

[98G]

Blue it is for me, I am looking at the MultiMatic 200, but I just
read the specs and if I am reading it right it says 20% Duty Cycle.

Does that mean I can run it for 12 Minutes and then I have to
let it run w/o using it for 48 minutes? Is that a really poor duty
cycle?

I do .125" and .25" and .375" steel welding usually but I want
to learn TIG for roll bars etc and have some aluminum capability
and stick for that occasional "reach in there and button it up" repair.

I am running a Miller VINTAGE machine currently and time to upgrade.
It is good for little things but seems to peter out after a few minutes use.

CLICK HERE for the MultiMatic 200 Specs

You almost certainly won't hit the limit on duty cycle, except MAYBE running MIG or FCAW with the thicker wire and standard 110v house current.

I use mine doing multiple pass MIG on 3/8" and thicker plate and I never have to stop and wait for the machine.

That 20% is only at the absolute top power output of the machine. With just slightly lower amperage output the duty cycle approaches 100%. See how the duty cycle table trends as the output decreases?

 

[rustystud]

View attachment 534372



You almost certainly won't hit the limit on duty cycle, except MAYBE running MIG or FCAW with the thicker wire and standard 110v house current.

I use mine doing multiple pass MIG on 3/8" and thicker plate and I never have to stop and wait for the machine.

That 20% is only at the absolute top power output of the machine. With just slightly lower amperage output the duty cycle approaches 100%. See how the duty cycle table trends as the output decreases?

Rarely will you ever need a 100% duty cycle machine. I used one when I worked at "Kolstrand", but I was welding for over 7 hours straight. The endless bead !!!!!!

 

[quickfarms]

Blue it is for me, I am looking at the MultiMatic 200, but I just
read the specs and if I am reading it right it says 20% Duty Cycle.

Does that mean I can run it for 12 Minutes and then I have to
let it run w/o using it for 48 minutes? Is that a really poor duty
cycle?

I do .125" and .25" and .375" steel welding usually but I want
to learn TIG for roll bars etc and have some aluminum capability
and stick for that occasional "reach in there and button it up" repair.

I am running a Miller VINTAGE machine currently and time to upgrade.
It is good for little things but seems to peter out after a few minutes use.

CLICK HERE for the MultiMatic 200 Specs

That machine should be fine for up to 3/16" material.

Welding 3/8" will be pushing its limits.

I have a red machine that has very similar specs. It has served me well for over the last 20 plus years. This past year I was welding a lot of thicker material and got frustrated waiting for it to cool down.

My solution was to get a commercial red power mig. This machine kicks the little machines but.

I have found that equipment that tries to do multiple functions ends up not doing anything great.

 

[98G]

I have found that equipment that tries to do multiple functions ends up not doing anything great.

That's my opinion of most things as well. My initial plan was to get seperate dedicated MIG and stick machines.

However.... I've used a 350P for short circuit MIG welding, and the MultiMatic 200 has that same feel to it that the 350P does. I've used a Dynasty 200 DX for stick welding, and the MultiMatic 200 has that same feel to it. It's really hard to beat, for anything that'll run on standard house current.

Edit to add pics - 3/8" plate with 1/4" backing bar on the hitch receiver(multiple pass)... and 1/2" plate on the pintle riser (multiple pass)... triangle pyramid single pass on 3/16", which is as thick as i would attempt for a single pass.

 

[quickfarms]

Around here I have yet to find a house that is not wired for an electric dryer.

I know it is possible but it would not be the norm.

The worst case scenario would be to have to add a 220 outlet to the panel which is not an issue because most houses have exterior panels.

I have not stick welded in a long time.

I prefer to use flux core wire.

 

[74M35A2]

I also suggest the Miller 211 MVP, I have one. As others have said, it is 120V and 240V (plug end has adapters), and the auto-set feature allows even a beginner to set the metal thickness, pickup the gun, and weld at least amateur level, day one. It is less than $1000 new, and is a lifetime tool. The difference between the voltage input is the thickness it can weld, single pass.

I also have the spool gun for mine, and it is pretty good at welding aluminum. The spool gun add-on is reasonably priced, I think less than $200.

So, it is 120V, 240V, has an auto setting feature, is small enough to single hand carry and load into your car, can use flux cored or bottle gas, and can accept a spool gun to weld aluminum (vs changing cable liners and making bird nests). That is pretty hard to beat by reasonable measure, all considering.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/product.php?model=M00245

You can probably even get a used for even less.

Independent of the Miller, I would still buy a used Miller or Lincoln over a new Harbor Freight one. Get good at it, and you may be set. Future job market predictions call for shortage of welders.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have not stick welded in a long time.

I prefer to use flux core wire.

Isn't that basically the same thing though?


I have bought and used many welders. If your buying for your paycheck(for your job), I'd recommend one of the big names. Right now I have a bunch of old gear and it works well for me. I could never be able to afford all the metal working tools I have if I bought new. Just the gun for one of my push/pull aluminum set-ups is 1750 new. I got the gun, control box, and a spool of aluminum for $250. The deals are out there if you have patience. Other things that I don't see mentioned is the welder is just the price of admission! You need the right shielding gas, tips, wire size, and accessories like chipping hammers, wire brushes, PPE(gloves, hood, leathers, etc). Its wonderful once you have tools to work with, but its a long time to get them!

 

[dmetalmiki]

If you have no experience at all, why not try out an INVERTER welder? (research them). They are light, compact, and portable. I have worked up ladders with my (handbag!) inverter welder over my shoulder. Continuouse use is ok. and where I had an old welder the size of a shed and wieghed 30 tons <sic> I can now weld anywhere with convenience on any of my trucks. (my penn'eth).

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Lincoln

I hope this helps
Chase

 

[MatthewH]

Whether your a pipeliner, production welder, fab welder or somebody who's trying to stick 2 pieces of metal together for there army truck, its all based on the basic principles of welding. Follow the basics and practice, your project should come out nice

 

[lpcoating]

Lincoln welders only. A 200 amp 220 volt welder will do just about anything.
In the shop i work in We use welders every day of the week and we have used Lincoln for over 12 years they are reliable tough and easy to use.
Always use gas and o35 wire.
Get a auto darking full size lens Lincoln welding hood. A leather welders jacket, pair of those red, white, and blue leather welding gloves, and a pair of regular leather work gloves. You use the regular glove on your trigger hand and the welding glove on the other hand to control the stinger. Also just buy several tips nozzles, a pair of welding pliers, and also a wire wiper. Its a little round brush that goes over the wire right before it goes through the feeder.

I know all this at once is very costly but if you take care of it this equipment will last years and years and years.
If you don't have much experience welding go to your local welding shop and ask if you could watch some guys weld.
Always remember when learning how to weld from someone that production weld or pipe welding is different than welding in a fabricating shop. I'm not saying that the bead you lay down is different but pipe welders just weld the same crack between two pipes.
A production welder welds the same part every day.
In a fab shop like I work in we weld something different all the time.

I hope this helps
Chase

That's funny. If we have any pipe welders on here I'm sure they will all find this a little offensive. There is much more to pipe welding then "just welding the same crack". We weld some very high end ASME jobs at our shop and the guys that do this type of fabrication are some of the best in the business.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I'm sure thats about the equivalent to "this weld should just take 45sec to do". Those guys have no clue that 90% of the weld is prep work!

 

[Hoefler]

I am not a welder but am learning. I have a 120 volt Millermatic 211 and have welded exhaust pipes and sheet metal with it-stuff like auto body panels. It make welding sort of easy-and fun. Our shop has a Miller 250 that is 240 volt single phase-great machine for rookie. Can weld thicker materials like 1/4" plate. Easy to weld with as well. Just welded up a bunch of 1/8" wall square tubes for a work bench frame. The 250 is more cost but will do everything a hobby guy would do.
Pete

 

[microjeep]

we have 8 of the millermatic 180's up to 10 years old, we use them professionally they are the best fit for what we do. We work them pretty hard I have seen a guy use up an 11# spool in a day, they require a little maintenance from time to time. The main issues we have are that the gas hose from the solenoid to the lead has no clamps on it so they will eventually pop off and we just push it back on and put a tie wrap on it, the other main issue is the tension setting on the wire feed drive rollers, set it where recommended or it will wear the bushing out and the whole assembly has to be replaced we use .035 solid wire and run straight co2 gas, i would recommend up sizing the ground wire and clamp, getting a true flow meter and up sizing to a 15' M150 gun

we also have 1 of the 211 model and were very disappointed with the 110v performance but we may have been expecting to much of it?

some thing to keep in mind bigger welder = bigger extension cord (if needed) 10 ga. works fine with these up to 300'
also if you ever expect to roll the thing around build your on cart with bigger wheels

 

[microjeep]

i'm sure thats about the equivalent to "this weld should just take 45sec to do". Those guys have no clue that 90% of the weld is prep work!

what he said!!!!!

 

[rustystud]

Lincoln welders only. A 200 amp 220 volt welder will do just about anything.
In the shop i work in We use welders every day of the week and we have used Lincoln for over 12 years they are reliable tough and easy to use.
Always use gas and o35 wire.
Get a auto darking full size lens Lincoln welding hood. A leather welders jacket, pair of those red, white, and blue leather welding gloves, and a pair of regular leather work gloves. You use the regular glove on your trigger hand and the welding glove on the other hand to control the stinger. Also just buy several tips nozzles, a pair of welding pliers, and also a wire wiper. Its a little round brush that goes over the wire right before it goes through the feeder.

I know all this at once is very costly but if you take care of it this equipment will last years and years and years.
If you don't have much experience welding go to your local welding shop and ask if you could watch some guys weld.
Always remember when learning how to weld from someone that production weld or pipe welding is different than welding in a fabricating shop. I'm not saying that the bead you lay down is different but pipe welders just weld the same crack between two pipes.
A production welder welds the same part every day.
In a fab shop like I work in we weld something different all the time.

I hope this helps
Chase

Actually a pipe fitter has an extremely difficult job. He has to be able to weld in ALL positions, unlike a metal fabricator who usually has a bench and just lays down flat bead. I was a metal fabricator welder for 10 years. We also made a complete line of products for the fishing industry, including winches. So I'm very familiar with welding the same parts all day long, as well as welding up the strange thing the customer just brought in. Welding is welding . In the shop where I worked, the parts and products we made people depended on for there very lives ! If a winch failed on a boat in the gulf of Alaska and someone got killed that would bankrupt the company, so believe me the welds where good !
You never mention stick welding, just MIG. I know there is much more skill needed in stick welding then in MIG, but the welds have deeper penetration then with MIG unless you go to the big commercial machines. So I would recommend a Lincoln AC/DC unit. This way you can weld with 7018 and 308L stainless .

 

[quickfarms]

We can debate which welder is better till the end of time.

My advice to the OP is to look into some training before you purchase a welder. Training is available at night schools, vocational schools, community college and some welding places.

You should ask the school to see if they provide or sell the personal protective gear. The school I went to provided loaner helmets and leathers. I did not want to wear loaners so I bought my own helmet, leathers and gloves. I still have them. I used the helmet today, but it was updated a long time ago with an auto darkening lens.

Here are some welding gear packages to look at.

http://www.weldfabulous.com/c-1319-welding-gear-packs.aspx

The welder is just the start. Then comes all the fabrication equipment.