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Getting my M1009 ready for road trips!

cucvrus

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I just looked at my bill the other day. They primed and cleaned my floors in my M1009 before they applied the Line X. It was an up charge but it was worth it and it looks really good years after it was completed. I will post a few pictures.
 
360
4
18
Location
southern ca
The aftermarket tailgates are garbage. I ordered one from summit I believe and was initially impressed with the appearance. However as I started to build it up I was shocked at how poorly constructed it really was. No paint inside it either and I completed the whole thing, threw my only tailgate in my trash trailer only to realize the new one was an out .5" to narrow. Measured the old one and sure enough it was to narrow!

So out came the old one and I just rebuilt that, came out really nice. To be honest everything I have from LMC has been marginal at best. I've ordered tons of weather sills, lights, switches, etc. It's all cheap Chinese crap or at least appears to be. Hardly anything fits, as a result I've just settled on repairing everything I can or buying else where.

We thought that starting with a re-pop would give us a clean slate but maybe not I did not realize the re-pop from LMC was that cheep I guess for $200 I should have know it was! Any body else had experience with re-pop tailgates? Did your come from LMC?

The $1100.00 is for my complete list from LMC! Free shipping over $1000.00
Tailgate.
Headlight and all lights upgrade.
EVA Sound & Heat shield for front and back floor
Molded Heavy duty PVC 4pc floor mat
Side Step Bars
Window and door seals
Weather stripping for removable top
Hood Pins set
Led upgrade lights for instrument pannel
Inside threshold trim

More to do thats not from LMC!
 

Streamline

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Comer, Ga.
Where else is a good place to buy that we dont run into the same cheep stuff?
I ordered replacement seals and gaskets for the rear window just before the GA Rally and so far they have been doing well but if they are not going to last long I surly do not want to spend a grand with them for junk!
 

cucvrus

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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Scour the salvage yards. If you were not so far I have a few OEM gates that could use some work to get them back in shape. I am thinking that someone has gates somewhere. I went thru the Gap and still see the same CUCV's parked in the back lot going to rust. A couple of the M1009 have perfect gates on them. No axles in them but perfect gates. I ask several times about them. But NO they are doomed to rot.
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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One of the projects I want to accomplish on my CUCV is to install Monstaliner on the floor. It comes in a color that matches my tan interior.
 
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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I don't know if this helps you or not. I have been buying replacement part's from brothertrucks.com I have been happy with the quality of the parts I received. They sell replacement tailgates for the CUCV pickups that have the CHEVROLET stamped into them and they fit well. Time will tell if they are of any quality. They also have replacement gates for the M1009. They are more expensive then LMC. Maybe you are paying for the quality. I bought some dash pads from them and have been happy with them. i will post a few pictures of the dash pad. It is black thru and thru and comes with dyeing instructions if black is not your color.004.jpg001.jpg002.jpg003.jpg
 

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Streamline

Active member
544
107
43
Location
Comer, Ga.
I checked their sight they do have he Blazer Tailgate as u stated they want $300.00 They say theirs is stamped from cold roll steel. But for 300 plus shipping I probably could rebuild my tailgate for much cheaper at shop!

Has anyone ordered a tailgate from these guy's?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I took the pictures of the M1009 to show the places that I used the 12 gauge galvaneal to do patch work. The strip across the top of the gate is welded on. You can see the welds under the Line X. I used brush seals from overhead truck doors in lieu of the OEM rubber window seals. The OEM door seals are still under there. I used a solid rubber door seal for the inside and the 1/2" extrusion to add protection for the rear window edge. I only broke 12-15 of them over the years. As always I replace all of the fasteners when I take these old boys apart. Sanding and cleaning everything as I go. The bottom of the gate has a 3/16" piece of aluminum glue fast with Lord adhesive. It is a 2 part epoxy. It is shot from a special gun that mixes the 2 parts in the injection nozzle. I have many things glued on the body . I usually add a few of the 3/16" rivets for good measure. I tend to over build. The rockers are made of 3" X 3" X 1/4" steel tubing. I attached them to 3/8" X 3" flat bar that I attached to the cab mounts. This has been a good vehicle and currently has 120K on it. I still have the original injection pump on it and everything is stock except some lighting and the sound equipment. MERRY CHRISTMAS. I hope you find this post helpful.
 
360
4
18
Location
southern ca
To be honest I'm not sure who make quality parts for these anymore. I just try to get panels out of donor trucks now. Works out good for me and thicker steel and proper fit.

Where else is a good place to buy that we dont run into the same cheep stuff?
I ordered replacement seals and gaskets for the rear window just before the GA Rally and so far they have been doing well but if they are not going to last long I surly do not want to spend a grand with them for junk!
 

Streamline

Active member
544
107
43
Location
Comer, Ga.
I just looked at my bill the other day. They primed and cleaned my floors in my M1009 before they applied the Line X. It was an up charge but it was worth it and it looks really good years after it was completed. I will post a few pictures.
Do u think it quieten down road noise much? Did you install the sound and heat shield on the floor over it? If so did it quieten down well?
 

AECS

Member
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Munford, TN
The best thing I have done to quiet mine down was plumbing the intake from the aircleaner to the knock out in the front grill, amazing...
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
[thumbzup]I never added anything to the floor after the Line X. And yes I did secure a few of the air cleaner mufflers from the old 5.7 Buicks and Oldsmobiles diesel V8's over the years and put them on the trucks . It did a world of difference for sound. Even at 85.:):popcorn:Sounded like 55.
 

Streamline

Active member
544
107
43
Location
Comer, Ga.
I talked with the Line X guys yesterday and it was $600.00 to do the floor! I will be going a different direction with that part and doing it my self! Too much of my available money taken for one part! But I did order the Nerf bars and window tint with them! They will be installing both next Wednesday!

Now I have to start working on tail gate tomorrow so that I can have it put back togeather and back on truck be Tuesday week before it goes in for window tinting!
 

Streamline

Active member
544
107
43
Location
Comer, Ga.
Wow. I would rebuilt the entire tailgate. I guess I have more patience and thrift for saving things. The knock off gate may look pretty but it is pin spot welded and with any use they do not hold up. Rust is a pain to fix. But a dented gate can be had and fixed pretty cheap. My opinion. I know for a fact the after market truck gates are terrible and fall apart under light use. With the welder and the flat steel you start welding on the gate and fixing a few things it can start to shape up quickly and become a survivor. Happy Holidays. Good Luck. $1100. WOW.
Did you have any pictures of your finished tailgate I could look at to get a better idea of the fix you did?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
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Did you have any pictures of your finished tailgate I could look at to get a better idea of the fix you did?
I hope that helps. I welded plates in the areas that the hinges mount on the inside. Everything I used was 12 gauge galvaneal. Anywhere you can drill and weld up top at the upper corners is going to give the gate strength. I hope that helps. they are usually broken loose from the inner structure in the upper area. Strip the gate out entirely and go to town on it. Good Luck I hope that helps you.
 

Streamline

Active member
544
107
43
Location
Comer, Ga.
So if im seeing this right you laid a strip of metal across the top from edge to edge and welded it in. Also looks like you added a thicker piece of metal across bottom were you have the red and white paint?

The Line X looks great! Wish I had the budget to have mine spayed! But will have to do it by hand with a New Rubberized Spray I use in our shop should do the same not sure if will last as long as Line X but it will all be covered on floor anyway!
 
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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I talked with the Line X guys yesterday and it was $600.00 to do the floor! I will be going a different direction with that part and doing it my self! Too much of my available money taken for one part! But I did order the Nerf bars and window tint with them! They will be installing both next Wednesday!

Now I have to start working on tail gate tomorrow so that I can have it put back togeather and back on truck be Tuesday week before it goes in for window tinting!
Hey do what you want. But I spent 3 months after work removing a brush in liner out of this M1009. I thought the same thing and a crafty Dura Back salesmen gave me a 2 gallon military OD green sample at N/C to try on my floor. He stayed there and helped apply it. And used it to show a few people how nice it was. Well after 2 years the floor was rusting under the coating and the coating was peeling here and there and staying on other places. I had to remove everything out of the inside and used a pick hammer and knock holes in the floor where ever the bubbles were under the Dura Back. I spent $150. on urethane stripper and hundreds of hours till I got all the Dura Back out and fixed all the holes. I had the Dura Back put in in 2009 and spent the entire winter and spring 2013 scrapping, sanding, and fixing the rust in the floor. Do what you want. I spend $795. to get my Line X installed. I paid the up charge for the primer and it is well worth it. Almost bullet proof to heel damage and sharp things. Dura Back had wear marks where the drivers feet go in 3 months and you could see a big difference in the first year where other people had stones in their shoes. Do what you want. I am only trying to help. Save you a lot of work and cussing. Good Luck. This is my opinion.
 
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