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Stupid runaway starter

broknindarkagain

New member
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Location
Phoenix, Arizona
I've been having starter issues since day one. I got my M1009 and it would not start. Just had a god awful grinding noise when you tried to start it. I crawled under it and found the starter was loose so I tightened it back up and it fired right up....but the starters case was cracked because the bolt to the support bracket had broken.

I ordered an eBay starter (I know, they are junk...but it was cheap) and installed it properly secured with the support bracket. Everything worked great.

Fast forward a month. I shut off my truck when I went to the kids day care. I came back out 5 minutes later to start it and the starter ran away. My instinct (remember I have never messed with 24 volt electrical systems until now) was to disconnect the negative battery cable. I did so and the starter stopped. After a few minutes I thought "well maybe whatever got hung up has 'reset' its self and I can get it to start now to get it home" so I set the negative terminal back on the post (front battery) and the starter instantly went nuts again. I removed the terminal but now the truck was doing funny things. The starter was turning the engine very slow so I took the negative terminal back off again. Then the fusable links on the firewall went up in smoke.

This entire time I could not access the other 3 terminals because the hold down brackets sit over them. I rushed into the truck to get tools and eventually got the brackets off so I could remove the other terminals.

I towed the truck home and did the doghead relay mod and repaired the fusable links. When I reconnected the batteries all was good. The starter didn't instantly run away so I tried to fire up the truck. As soon as I tried to fire it up the starter ran away again. I was quick to get to the battery terminals this time so no further damage was done.

At this point I figured maybe I toasted the solenoid in the starter or something. So I took my old OEM broken case starter and the new eBay starter to make a Frankenstarter. I virtually used the nose cone section of the new starter, and the motor and solenoid from the old OEM starter. I put the new frankenstarter in and it worked great.

Here we are a week later and my truck is starting to get slow to crank. It use to crank over fast, but now its acting like a car that has a very weak battery. I read the sticky threads about disconnecting the front negative terminal and what it can do (after this ordeal obviously) so I'm concerned. I've checked both alternators and both batteries. They seem up to par so it is not a battery charge issue. What else should I be looking for? Everything that I can see on the surface looks ok. Are there any other typical things that can burn up when someone goes through what I did?
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Take your starter to a shop and have it tested. Are you sure you bought a 24v? Sometimes the labels are wrong.
 

Warthog

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Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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The windings on the ebay case could be 12v. Have it checked. YMMV
 

wreckerman893

Possum Connoisseur
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Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
I own one of these wretched inventions of the devil and the same thing happened to me.

I managed to get the hot lead off before anything melted down.

I raised the truck up and removed the starter and took it to the local old school starter/alternator guy and it tested good.

Re-installed it and have had no issues since. Go figure.:cookoo:
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Camp Wood/LC, TX
Feel all the ring terminals on the firewall buss bar for hot ones after cranking. Hot means high resistance and slow cranking. Mine had that problem. Remove and clean the connections.
 

cpf240

Active member
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Location
Free in Northern Idaho
Batteries are a month old and good voltage
New doesn't mean anything. The runaway could have caused them to fail. Voltage doesn't mean anything, either. How they preform under load is what matters. Load test is about the best way to know the battery is still good. This is step one in any CUCV electrical troubleshooting. Trust but verify.
 

mugwomp

New member
3
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Location
Gold Beach, Oregon
I seem to have the same thing going on with my 86. I picked up a starter from the salvage yard and yes I know the starter is 12 volt. I need to know what I need to do to make the rig work on 12volt as I will never put an 24v radio in it
 

cpf240

Active member
1,479
5
38
Location
Free in Northern Idaho
I seem to have the same thing going on with my 86. I picked up a starter from the salvage yard and yes I know the starter is 12 volt. I need to know what I need to do to make the rig work on 12volt as I will never put an 24v radio in it
The truck is all 12v, so you can put in a 12v radio no problem. Only the starter, really, is a 24v part. The 24v system really only feeds the starter and the glow plugs ( which is actually dropped down to 12v to actually run the glow plugs ).

If you really want to convert it to 12v, look up the Roscommon conversion instructions.
 
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