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Replacing the worn Strike Bolts in the door of your M1009

edpdx

Active member
795
75
28
Location
Oregon
After a couple of years of slamming doors to get them to latch completely, I finally replaced the strike bolt, and I am pleased with the result.

I have to say that on a scale of 1-5, this job is a 2.5. It is easier if you don't run into trouble with the floating retainer inside of the jamb that holds the strike in place. Unfortunately, this part seems to break free from its own set of captive brackets and that can be a problem. After going to the -20 TM for service help and finding none, I read a number of different GM forums that address this problem. No real fix was given, but I got the drift and the whole ordeal took about 40 minutes.strikers1.jpg

Briefly: The strike bolt gets worn after the plastic/nylon sleeve on the shaft wears out. This creates opportunity for the metal parts of the door latch to smack into the strike bolt. Something that doesn't really happens when the sleeve is in good repair. The result is that the door is slamming the latch tangs against the striker but over time this problem get worse as the striker becomes more worn and disfigured. Eventually the latch encounters a FLAT spot where there used to be a cylinder for it to ride upon in order for it to latch properly. Bad juju.

Fix: Straight forward as it should be- unscrew Strike bolt add sleeve (all that is needed if the strike bolt is not worn flat), or replace old strike bolt as a complete assembly (Dorman part pictured). HOWEVER< sometimes when you are unscrewing the old strike bolt, you'll find that for reasons unclear (rust, loosened innards, distemper, act-of-God, etc.) the rectangular retainer inside of the "B" pillar will drop off into the pillar when the strike bolt is removed. The Blazer has no access hole or panel so unless you want to fuss with wire and magnets... its a gonner. And until you find a fix you'll have to cobble a ghetto fix- think bungee.

Here's the safe way to proceed. You'll need a breaker bar, rachet and 50 TORX socket, a long flat screwdriver, spray lube or oil, magnets.striker2.jpg

1. loosen the strike bolt a few turns until you can see the bolt retainer through the hole. Spray lube on the threads through the hole. Add magnets around the hole with flat magnets. I used the crescent ones out of an old IDE hard drive I opened (if you have a drive handy, I recommend this. The two magnets are glued in but a little finessing in the jaws of a vise will break them free AND... wait for it... the disk you pull out will make a nice signal mirror).
2. with magnets in place, withdraw the strike bolt. The magnets will keep the retainer in place. But how do you know it was broken in the first place, you ask. YOU DON'T. You can't know unless you hear it drop inside of the pillar- which means you didn't use magnets. ALWAYS USE MAGNETS!
NOTE* if you have the magnets in place, as I know you will, but the strike bolt just continues to spin in the pillar, and the bolt is not unscrewing, then the retainer has indeed broken free. You'll have to go in through the hole that the seat belt plunger passes through.
2a using the 50 TORX unbolt the seat belt retractor assembly. Stick the long flat screwdriver into the hole and jamb it against the back of the retainer to keep it from spinning. S-L-O-W-L-Y remove the strike bolt- use you fingers at the end so you feel when the bolt is about to pop free- at this moment you want the retainer against the back of the hole so the magnets can capture it. Use a pen or some other non-metallic to center the retainer in the hole. Add a dab of oil to the new strike bolt and gingerly thread it in to the retainer. Once there is a firm bite, slide the magnets away- but don't pack up yet.

3. the new strike bolt has to be adjusted to hit the latch precisely for a smooth effortless latching; otherwise you be back where you started too soon. My M1009 had a heavy washer followed by two thinner ones to get the shim distance right. I used the painted original because it is better steel (drill and see). The thinner washers went back on as well. I tightened the lot using the marks the original set left in the paint. When I closed the door to test however, the striker was hitting too high. I used a simple masking of electrical tape to see if the strike bolt was hitting the edge of the latchway, or to low. Place some tape as shown and close the door to get any impression- like the dentist does with the carbon paper. I had to eliminate two thin washers on my drivers door and one of them on the passenger door to get a smooth latching. Adjust as many times as needed to attain a bump-free latch.

Replace the seat belts, if removed. and enjoy.
 
408
0
16
Location
Colo.
Simple fix that really stopped a nagging issue that I did years ago. I hate it when people see a big truck and think they have to slam the door.

On the pickups, you can reach around and hold the retainer so it doesn't drop. Mark the circle with a sharpie and keep it a little loose and you will get your alignment right. 3 minute job. I don't believe the originals came with plastic sleeves. They make a huge difference and I can fully close both doors with a pinkie on the tin can.
 

the skull

Member
289
12
18
Location
mt victory ohio
I have replaced the plastic sleeves (missing) on my M1008 and also on an 81
C20 I had with a chunk of 1/2 PEX water line from your favorite hardware
store. Makes a huge difference. I'm going to get a bushing kit for the hinge
pins to finish the job.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
My opinion her to help you out. Many of the CUCV's I see need the door hinge bushings replaced. They are still an available part from the GM dealer. You basically remove the door and hammer out the old door hinge pins and replace the bronze bushings that keep the door hinges tight and in adjustment. It is a fairly easy job and will require 2 people so you can get the door back into alignment and do all your adjustments. That will also help keep the door from eating the strikers as fast as you can replace them. I opt to use 7/16" or 1/2" rubber hose on the strikers it is a little more forgiving then the oem hard nylon bushing that was on the striker. I also always use grease and oil to keep my hinges lubed. If you do the hinge bushings now and keep them lubed I am willing to say you will never do them again. And don't just spray WD40 or CRC on them. Not the same good old artillery / chassis grease and 30 weight oil are the ticket. Clean the parts and don't soak them that you have oil dripping from the hinges. That just attracts dirt and wear.
 
161
0
16
Location
Vancouver, Washington
Thank you for posting this guide. My Grandpa's truck needed this a few months ago (the plastic bushings came off) and the internet only explained that the plate would fall into the pillar and if it does your out of luck. Instead of chancing this, he just wrapped the posts with electrical tape. Extremely cheap, very easy, and it's worked perfect so far. And if it wears out again,. just wrap it again. You hardly notice it too.
 
478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
Today I used some 1/2" PEX split down the side. Fit it right over the strike bolt and the door closed very smoothly for the first time. Asides from the split, PEX is an extremely durable material. It's definitely not as nice as pulling the bolt and putting the sleeve on properly, but it's pretty good for now. Thanks for the great post
 

scottladdy

Member
538
8
18
Location
CT
My opinion her to help you out. Many of the CUCV's I see need the door hinge bushings replaced. They are still an available part from the GM dealer. You basically remove the door and hammer out the old door hinge pins and replace the bronze bushings that keep the door hinges tight and in adjustment. It is a fairly easy job and will require 2 people so you can get the door back into alignment and do all your adjustments. That will also help keep the door from eating the strikers as fast as you can replace them. I opt to use 7/16" or 1/2" rubber hose on the strikers it is a little more forgiving then the oem hard nylon bushing that was on the striker. I also always use grease and oil to keep my hinges lubed. If you do the hinge bushings now and keep them lubed I am willing to say you will never do them again. And don't just spray WD40 or CRC on them. Not the same good old artillery / chassis grease and 30 weight oil are the ticket. Clean the parts and don't soak them that you have oil dripping from the hinges. That just attracts dirt and wear.
Exactly, door hinge bushings wear out as well. Easy job to replace. Rockauto sells a dorman set (does both hinges on a door) cheap.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have come across a few M1009 the door striker nut is broken loose in the B pillar. I just take a 2" hole saw and cut a hole on the inside post to gain access to the nut. I use a 2" caplug to cover the hole. Everything is good as new.
 

Ilikemtb999

Active member
699
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
Hmmm interesting. I wasn't even aware that the strikers were supposed to have plastic. My hinges all seem solid but my strikers are starting to wear flat.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
The hinges may seem solid. Open the door and get a hold of the back bottom corner and lift it up. Does it have any sloop? If it does that is the hinge bushings and that explains the flat spots on your door striker. Check it out. I am just trying to help. And if I may recommend please do yourself a favor and get the GM bushings. They last longer and I broke a few of the aftermarket ones putting them in. Maybe a coincidence but I never broke any GM ones and have changed a few hundred bushings in my time. Just a helpful hint. GM part # 9721917 will get you bag of 20 for about $20 +. I hope that helps just 1 person.
 
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