Any advantage to separate volt gauge for each battery

[axshon]

I understand that the stock voltage gauge monitors both batteries. When I watched individual battery status with my multi-meter (with spanking new batteries) I saw that the charging level was different between the two. My google foo is failing me because after looking through various threads I couldn't come up with a good pro/con list for adding separate battery voltage gauges.

Any insights?

 

[Westech]

I added a 12V gauge to mine. Its nice to know whats going on.

 

[axshon]

Saw that in the original thread. Was wondering if it's split one for each battery. What connection did you use for the starter/gp only battery?

 

[Recovry4x4]

I would like to do that on one of my trucks. No need for a 24V gauge if you have 2 12V gauges.

 

[61sleepercab]

I guess each battery may act differently even in the same truck. Old trucker mechanic friend stressed with two batteries use same amp size and replace in pairs as one battery will be weaker than the other and not charge the same. A individual voltage check would keep an eye on battery charge and possible condition. Good idea.

 

[doghead]

That is not as important with a cucv, as they have individual charging.

 

[axshon]

So doghead, do you see any advantage to having 2 voltage gauges in place of the single combined guage and 2 gen idiot lights?

 

[doghead]

Personally, I do not see the need to make such a modification.

I watch my gauge, and if it is not where it should be I simply take out the DMM (that I keep behind the seat with spare GPs) and test the battery voltages.

I trust the alternator lights.

 

[axshon]

Sounds good. I'll leave this mod for a future wish list. No need to add work when I've got enough on my plate already.

 

[Al Harvey]

I added two volt gauges when I added my trans temp, oil pressure, and coolant temp gauges. I put them in so one on the left monitors the driver side alt and the right the passenger. Since they aren't too expensive it's nice to be able to see each one so you know right away if something is up with one battery or the other. But Doghead is right, a DMM in the truck can identify a problem quickly if the main gauge is off for some reason.

 

[axshon]

I've got a failing voltmeter right now so that was my original reason for seeing that batteries are not at the same state of charge during normal idle with my DMM. After reading the operators manual I ran through the sticky thread on the fuse box and checked all the fuses in the system. All are fine though in need of a cleaning. Next I went to the part of the unit maintenance manual to review next steps. Great having that kind of documentation on hand as a non-wrench turner in daily life. Easy peasy steps right there on 2-60. THIS is why I say it's gonna be a good daily driver for a git-yer-paws-off-my-truck-I'll-do-it-myself type like me.

I never did get an answer to the question about the connections used for a left/right dual voltmeter setup though. What say the gang?

 

[richingalveston]

you would have to connect each directly to the battery. The only place to read 12volts on the back battery is at the battery. At all other points it is putting out 24V. There are other places to read the 12v circuit but for reliability I would go strait to the battery if trying to use two 12 volt gauges.

 

[axshon]

Thanks Rich, that's what I thought but I have a long and troubled history with automotive electrical so it's good confirmation.

So IF the voltmeter is bad I'll wire directly into positive on each battery and ground it and all should be well.

 

[doghead]

Thanks Rich, that's what I thought but I have a long and troubled history with automotive electrical so it's good confirmation.

So IF the voltmeter is bad I'll wire directly into positive on each battery and ground it and all should be well.

First off, you need to run them through relays that energise them with the key on, or they would read(draw power) all the time.

Also, you need to connect each battery both + and - to each meter. As you described, you would read 12v(front battery) and 24 volts(both batteries) if you ground both meters.

 

[Al Harvey]

On the rear battery to read just the 12 volts of that battery and alternator, you have to run the ground to the battery. It will cause a small constant draw, but I've got mine hooked up that way and it has never affected starting.

Doghead, if I'm correct, couldn't you hook it up to a solenoid like the glow plug solenoid (not the actual one for the glow plugs) that is isolated and have it turned on with 12V but then the main connections run to the rear batter and gauge? If that makes any sense.

 

[doghead]

Yes, reread my first sentence above.

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

To PO very good idea for those with batteries in series Batteries in my M1028 are in parallel so it wont benifit me but for those with standard CUCV setups this is an excellent idea..