Fuel line

[Tommy78]

Its my first post so please bear with me. Can anyone tell me if the fuel line on a '71 deuce and a half copper? Its the line that comes from tank and runs over transfer case to a fitting on drivers side. It is cracked and I need to replace it. Any advice would be great.

 

[DeucesWild11]

Paint came off mine and it was copper underneath.. Welcome fellow New Yorker!

 

[Jeepsinker]

Cut out the cracked section with a small tubing cutter and splice it back together with a 1/2" compression union, available in the plumbing section of your local hardware store.

 

[dmetalmiki]

Welcome to the site, you are going to enjoy that truck. And repair the line as above..that's how I did mine.. cut about 6 inches out and replaced (spliced) in the new 6 inch piece of the same size using two compression fittings each end.

 

[Flyingvan911]

It will either be copper or plastic. Ditto on using a union to splice it.

 

[Jeepsinker]

If it is a short crack just splice the tube back to itself, if it is a long crack then yes, you will need to get another section of tubing to splice in. It SHOULD be copper, but it sounds like either someone rerouted the line before you got the truck, or you don't have a deuce. The deuce fuel line runs from the tank just inside the frame rail and follows the rail to the front on the passenger side where the primary filter should be located just under the alternator. If it has been replaced it may well be plastic line. Take a knife and scrape it.

 

[Tommy78]

Thanks

If it is a short crack just splice the tube back to itself, if it is a long crack then yes, you will need to get another section of tubing to splice in. It SHOULD be copper, but it sounds like either someone rerouted the line before you got the truck, or you don't have a deuce. The deuce fuel line runs from the tank just inside the frame rail and follows the rail to the front on the passenger side where the primary filter should be located just under the alternator. If it has been replaced it may well be plastic line. Take a knife and scrape it.

Thank you , and everybody else who responded, for your advice. I will splice it as soon as the weather warms up. (not going to be above zero this weekend) The line is copper, and it very well have been re- routed. thanks again.

 

[Valence]

Welcome welcome!

Take pictures of the crack, the routing and of your fix - and of course your whole truck. Everyone loves a good story, pictures, and a successful fix!

 

[lino]

If it is a short crack just splice the tube back to itself, if it is a long crack then yes, you will need to get another section of tubing to splice in. It SHOULD be copper, but it sounds like either someone rerouted the line before you got the truck, or you don't have a deuce. The deuce fuel line runs from the tank just inside the frame rail and follows the rail to the front on the passenger side where the primary filter should be located just under the alternator. If it has been replaced it may well be plastic line. Take a knife and scrape it.

Unless it's the return fuel line. The path he describes is the return line path. And it's smaller tube. 3/8 I think.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yeah that's true.

 

[Hainebd]

Why was copper used? I am replacing with hose.

 

[rustystud]

Why was copper used? I am replacing with hose.

Copper was cheap then and didn't rust. Today manufactures use Poly hose almost exclusively . No rust, cheap, and will last for decades or forever.

 

[Tommy78]

Im pretty sure it was the return line, it was 3/8. There was a coupling not far from the crack, so I flared that end and spliced on about 8 inches from there. Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yes, 3/8" is definitely the return line. You said the line came FROM the tank to the engine, so my first thought was that it was supply. My mistake. Glad you got it fixed.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Why was copper used? I am replacing with hose.

I wouldn't replace the entire length with hose on the supply side. Long runs of hose = pressure loss, that's why most of the fuel system is hard line and only short sections are soft line.

 

[rustystud]

I wouldn't replace the entire length with hose on the supply side. Long runs of hose = pressure loss, that's why most of the fuel system is hard line and only short sections are soft line.

Actually there is no reason not to use poly hose. It will not collapse, will not corrode, or split and crack, and is much cheaper. I'm using Poly hose with stainless steel sheave and have had no problems. All our busses use poly hose for both supply and return lines. Have used them for decades. Almost all over the road trucks have used and are using poly hose for decades now, no problems.

 

[silverstate55]

Actually there is no reason not to use poly hose. It will not collapse, will not corrode, or split and crack, and is much cheaper. I'm using Poly hose with stainless steel sheave and have had no problems. All our busses use poly hose for both supply and return lines. Have used them for decades. Almost all over the road trucks have used and are using poly hose for decades now, no problems.

Would you happen to have a manufacturer & part # for the poly hose? My local hose shop has no idea what I'm talking about when I mention this to them. Thanks!

 

[lino]

Would you happen to have a manufacturer & part # for the poly hose? My local hose shop has no idea what I'm talking about when I mention this to them. Thanks!

I used(am using) Teflon hose from Eaton/Aeroquip. Not very cheap, but very effective and long lasting. Fittings are reusable. See attached Bill of Materials. I think the links even still work (all parts available from Summit Racing)
This list uses -8 size (same as stock) for the feed line and -6 (also same as stock) for the return.
View attachment Fuel Filter BOM.pdf


IMPORTANT NOTES:
1) I'm pretty sure these are all the correct and needed parts, and I have them in-hand, but I haven't installed yet. So it's possible the list contains errors.
2) Qty of the PTFE hose on "hose 2" is 0. Because 20' was ordered for hose 1
3) This list is set up to replace the first fuel filter with a setup like Rustystud used. As well as re-route feed line to roughly the same path as stock return line.
4) I made this list just from Summit for ease of ordering. You might be able to save a few bucks (5-10) if you search around. Amazon has the filter mount and housing for about $2 less each.

I'm hoping to install this weekend. So the list will be updated if there are any changes.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Actually there is no reason not to use poly hose. It will not collapse, will not corrode, or split and crack, and is much cheaper. I'm using Poly hose with stainless steel sheave and have had no problems. All our busses use poly hose for both supply and return lines. Have used them for decades. Almost all over the road trucks have used and are using poly hose for decades now, no problems.

Agreed. Poly hose is rigid enough to no have any issues. When people say "hose" it means rubber hose to me unless otherwise specified.

 

[rustystud]

Would you happen to have a manufacturer & part # for the poly hose? My local hose shop has no idea what I'm talking about when I mention this to them. Thanks!

Actually any DOT poly approved air hose will work. Just like I used for the filter assembly. I got most of my supplies from "Parker" hydraulic supply.