Wood
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Haven't got it started yet....will try again after work today.
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M1028 cold weather issues
- Thread starter Wood
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Here is my take on the situation.
You trusted your fuel gauge and the it lied to you. You ran out of fuel and now you have air in the system.
Without removing the air it will crank all day long and never start.
It is well documented on how to bleed the system. There are even some videos posted on different ways to accomplish it.
YMMV.
You trusted your fuel gauge and the it lied to you. You ran out of fuel and now you have air in the system.
Without removing the air it will crank all day long and never start.
It is well documented on how to bleed the system. There are even some videos posted on different ways to accomplish it.
YMMV.
Skinny
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A truck parked on a hill may have issues with the IP, I would search for that as I remember it being a common issue with a failing fuel system.
To the OP, I agree with what everyone has suggested. You need to get the system bled again. Changing the filter would also be beneficial. Never trust a fuel gauge, especially one reading near empty. I carry around a 5 gallon fuel jug just in case. Having to bleed a truck on the side of the road without an electric pump or manual primer is not going to be pretty. It also is a huge stress on the starter and batteries which with age or just cold temps may get really cranky.
Follow what Warthog said, go through the TM procedure and bleed it out before you go any further.
To the OP, I agree with what everyone has suggested. You need to get the system bled again. Changing the filter would also be beneficial. Never trust a fuel gauge, especially one reading near empty. I carry around a 5 gallon fuel jug just in case. Having to bleed a truck on the side of the road without an electric pump or manual primer is not going to be pretty. It also is a huge stress on the starter and batteries which with age or just cold temps may get really cranky.
Follow what Warthog said, go through the TM procedure and bleed it out before you go any further.
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I have a policy to NEVER run my diesels below 1/4 tank as most of us know the end result of running them dry and sucking up air, it is also important to keep your fuel levels up during the winter months to keep the moisture buildup to a minimum, fill your tank , use additive for the low sulfur fuel and for the cold weather, bleed your filter first then crack all the lines at the injectors and crank until your getting fuel and start closing them, if that fails you may have a larger problem,
MarcusOReallyus
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That's a good policy for gas or diesel. Gauges lie, unexpected things happen. It's just a good Boy Scout rule.
Wood
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So I went to bleed the air from my fuel filter, but saw that the previous owner installed a spin-off style filter to replace the stock one...so now none of the TM diagrams apply. Would I now bleed from the outlet tube on top of the fuel filter assembly? There's no other vent plug that I can see. Also, I obviously have the fuel filter removed for replacement, just in case it's gelled. Would cracking the injectors also work?EDIT: Sorry for the sideways pic, can't seem to get it flipped another 90*
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Skinny
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I would almost install a ball valve on the additional outlet port to purge air since it doesn't look like it has a bleed port. While bleeding, open the valve and pinch the fuel outlet hose to purge the air out I guess.
The MOST important part is to not crank the engine over with the pink wire attached to the IP until you are ABSOLUTELY certain that all the air is bled from the lines. What will happen is air will travel into the high pressure steel injection lines and now you've got bigger problems. Once this happens, you have to crack all of them and crank more to bleed them out. Taking out the GP's helps to speed the process up. Lot more time and work once you get to this point. That is why it is crucial to only bleed the fuel system with the pink wire disconnected.
The MOST important part is to not crank the engine over with the pink wire attached to the IP until you are ABSOLUTELY certain that all the air is bled from the lines. What will happen is air will travel into the high pressure steel injection lines and now you've got bigger problems. Once this happens, you have to crack all of them and crank more to bleed them out. Taking out the GP's helps to speed the process up. Lot more time and work once you get to this point. That is why it is crucial to only bleed the fuel system with the pink wire disconnected.
turnkey
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Turn the engine over, like my dog does....Turn over boy...
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Consider moisture accumulation in the fuel filter, you can't drain it when it is frozen. Try changing the filter. Hope it works.
Wood
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Cracked the injection lines and got her runnin. Thanks guys
cucvrus
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Great news. I am happy to hear that you have the machine back in running order. I had all of mine started yesterday and I had to get the slave cables out to get the Mule going. Today I am not going to try. It is supposed to be colder again in the next week. Enough of that. Spring is on the way. When I get bored or want something to do I may start them again. It is just easier to drive something that burns gasoline in this weather.